Ron

Chris I have spent ages looking at all this. It appears to me that to do it on line, you have to register with HMRC as if you are registering a business for VAT. It all looks far to involved. I'm going to try the VAT help-desk number and get a paper form NAVO1 sent to me. I see on another forum a guy who is trying to register his WM20 is having the same problem with a bike that has probably never left these shores. So far he's waited for three weeks for HMRC to respond to his application. I have to say I'm not new at this, having registered at least 10 vehicles/motorcycles of my own over the years and also helped lots of others as a local agent for the MVT in years gone by. Cheers Ron

Hi Chris. I've been going round in circles for the last half hour trying to find a way to contact HMRC about a NOVA declaration. Why am I doing it? Since the vehicle is not an import??? Ron PS. I've managed to sent a query to HMRC by email. I'll post the results when and if I get any. During my googling round, I came across other forums talking about what an utter farce the whole thing is and that DVLA and HMRC are not properly working together on this ...... Sounds about right!!

I am also about to register a WD Velo. Everything I read about this NOVA declaration states it's for vehicles imported into the UK. Is it also necessary for registering a UK vehicle? Anyone got a link to the form or correct department. Thanks Ron

Yes he had proper pedals fitted to it. Did you come to Tilly with us? (about 10 miles from Bayeux) He decided to come as well. Andy actually towed him gently most of the way. His wheel bearings must have been quite warm! He was only about 12 years old and when we enquired about his family. He said "it's ok, I've text my Dad to tell him I'm being looked after by a group of bikers". Very keen young lad in full uniform....Love it! Ron

The other accessory is the front carrier to carry a Bergen. Ron

Lee ask Frank Brown if he makes them. Ron

Sorry I missed you also Tom. I rode up to Lonques several times but you were always out. I asked Franz with the BSA to pass on my regards. I'm on the case with the MW parts. Ron

OK on that. I'm just off to Normandy any minute. (back on 10th June) You or he can PM me for my email address. We could talk privately if he has trouble with the forum. Cheers Ron

That's good then. I used stainless screws and lightly blasted the heads to dull them. I did the same light sand blasting to the monkey metal badge and it came up looking like dull plate. Ron

Well the last WD frame number was ML8500. So it wouldn't hurt to check the number if you can. (lower right headstock). Even so, there are still useful parts on that project, if it's cheap enough. Ron

Well it looks like a post war James ML. Little over 6000 of these were built for the WO. I believe another 20000 odd were built post war for the civy market. The pictures are very poor, but it looks to have the civy type handlebar and gearbox shift lever. Ron

Very nice diagram. But I don't recognise the big holes in the front engine plates? Ron

No Jenk. The correct tank should have two tapped bosses set into the top of the tank. My memory is telling me 4BA.... but I might be wrong? If you haven't got the tapped holes, you could get away with small self tapping screws, backed up with Loctite heavy duty thread locker and allow to set well before adding fuel. Ron

Guy is correct. The 3/5SW has the metal badge fitted to the top of the tank. If you acquire one from the side of a pre war tank you will find it is a bit too curved to fit the flat top of the tank. But if you very very gently warm it with a gas blow lamp, you can get it to lay flat. I had to do just that. Ron

I've emailed him for a viewing.......I'm not holding my breath though. I already have one anyway! Ron

Jenk. It's all fairly simple. After removing the banjo nut and float bowl. Undo the big union nut on the bottom of your carb body No36. Easier to slacken it while it is still bolted to the bike, but otherwise I hold them (NOT CLAMP) in a soft jaw vice between the flange and bell-mouth. With the nut off, you need to remove the jet block No34 through the bottom of the carb. These are sometimes a tight fit and soaking the carb in boiling water for 30 seconds will help. By holding the carb and a wooden drift with one gloved hand, you can gently drift out the block. I use a hammer shaft or piece of broom handle. Now you can clean everything in thinners. If you peer down the carb throat from the flange end, you will see a tiny hole. This quite often gets blocked with white verdigris. Poke it out with a thin piece of wire (bristle from a wire brush) Also the corresponding hole in the jet block. Blow the jets and drillings out with air and reassemble the block in the body by heating the body again. You will see a pimple on the block which you must line up with the cut-out in the body. Remove the float and drop the needle out the bottom for a thorough clean and blow job! When you replace the needle, hold it up on its seat with a small screwdriver whilst you click the float into its groove. Best to buy a gasket set before you start. I find Hitchcock's are by far the best firm to deal with and they sell genuine Amal parts. Let me know if you need more help. Ron PS Nut No36 needs to be quite tight and easiest to do it on the bike before you tighten the float banjo. PPS I alway check the flange for flatness by rubbing in a circular motion on W&D paper on a surface plate.....A bit of plate glass is fine. It's amazing how easily they become distorted. Ron

Do you mean Darren? I'd be interested also. Ron

Most likely some of that debris has got under the float needle. It wont cost a bean to strip and thoroughly clean everything. Remove the jet block while your at it and poke out the tiny hole that is in the throat of the carb. I can explain more fully if you want me to. Ron

I use Morris's straight 40 in all my bike engines. The hand book will usually tell you to swap between 30 to 50 according to climate. I find 40 to be a happy compromise. Ron

Absolutely right Guy. My mistake! I've built enough Triumphs that I should have remembered!! I was mixing up the distance tube with the foot-peg support tube in the parts list. The pre war tube is 2 1/2" long. However the 3HW has a different part number for some reason ? F2327 Ron

It is flush at the back of the primary case. Ron

There is no distance tube between the engine plates. Just the one between the N/S engine plate and the rear of the primary case. Ron

Yes here is a picture of the strip down. The ally cases of the earlier models also have a breather pipe. I guess it's to stop any oil leaving through the breather. Although I don't fully understand the need for a breather at all. These must be far from airtight behind the clutch! Ron

If those first forks were Speedtwin. They would be too heavy for a 3/5S They should also have the yoke with the rubber handlebar mounting. I'd put money on them being Ariel (very similar to Triumph). Was that thread from the bloke who said he'd done 18 miles on Indian made forks, some of it off road????????? The original fork lugs were a steel casting or forging and the forks were properly jigged before being pinned and brazed. You will find that the Indian made lugs are cast iron and I wonder what sort of jigs are used. You pay your money and take your chance......I'll get my coat and say no more about it. Ron

Those three wheel vans were made in large numbers by Raleigh and would have used a girder fork far too heavy for a little Trumpet... Later the company became Reliant "you ploncker Rodney" I've yet to see anything from India that would inspire me to risk life and limb. OK for some of the tin ware if you can find stuff that is not beaten misshapen by a Walla sat cross legged in the sand. What the hell are these made from? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251445262834?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D251445262834%26_rdc%3D1 Ron