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Ron

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Everything posted by Ron

  1. It's Steve who is getting confused! He's confusing my frame number with yours, and he's even miss quoted that!!!..........Poor bloke is getting on in years you no! Ron
  2. Here is my frame number on the right side headstock. Ron
  3. That's exactly how it should be. Which shows you have the engine which was fitted to your frame at the factory. As I said, the engine was stamped on the crankcase with the frame number. Here is mine which also matched my frame. The same thing applies with other Royal Enfield models. The actual engine numbers on the C and CO for instance is stamped under the magneto, the frame number is then stamped just below the barrel. Which you can see here on one of my other RE models. I have no idea why they did it this way? Ron
  4. The actual engine number of a Flea is stamped on the rear engine lug and should start with a 'V' ( For Villiers carb). An engine was taken from stock and once fitted to a frame, the Royal Enfield system was to then also stamp the frame number on the crankcase. Effectively giving it two engine numbers. Ron
  5. Just picking up on this thread. Did any further information come to light on these carts or tyre size? Are they made from steel tube? Cheers Ron
  6. It should be quite easy to make the blanking plate. By using a piece of steel bar or socket or something of the same diameter as the hole as an anvil and with a slightly bigger disc of 14-16 gauge clamped to the top of it and gently peen the edge round. Ron
  7. Thanks for that Lex. Yes I long ago changed the headlamp brackets for the shorter ones. I've had that re-enacted picture of the bloke holding the Flea for a long time. I didn't realise it was your bike though. Cheers Ron
  8. I have seen it in a very few war time pictures and I have done it in the past on some of my vehicles/bikes but I don't do it any more as i think it's more likely a post war feature. Here is the ammeter blanking plate that Metal Magic made for me years ago, but I have a feeling it should have a rivet in the centre. Something to check on and correct if necessary. Also showing the correct Miller switch. And if you want to get really serious, here is the correct Miller fag end tail lamp. Ron
  9. Sorry, forgot to post the picture. You can also buy the tank top transfer and the lube details and the headlamp Miller transfer from "Classic Transfers" Ron
  10. Thanks for that 79. It has also been confirmed to me by Jan who runs the RE register that apart from a couple of minor errors, all Royal Enfield census numbers ran in sequence to the frame numbers. His formula also confirms my calculation for Dave's number. Here is a good indication of the stencil style, which you can probably get from "Axholme Signs" http://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/ Ron
  11. Fair point Ivor, but it is generally considered that the main manufacturers ran the census numbers in sequence with the frame numbers. But nothing of course is cast in stone. I found this out with one on my Velo's, where I calculated the census number in sequence, but then found out from the VOC that the factory ledgers show my number to be out by 11. But then there are quite a few anomalies with Velocette, who did a few things not quite according to the book. Ron
  12. Your Flea is the 583 rd bike in that Contract S6602 and I calculate your tank census number to be C5816733. The painting of white tips was normaly done for home use for blackout purposes. Like the white edges to the wings of cars, to try and avoid everyone bumping into each other. I don't think you want any such target in a theatre of operation. Ron Factory picture.
  13. Yes thanks for the posts. I have been gathering information and parts/equipment for my 4x4 PU since 1989. I have acquired an Australian 11 set and most of the ancillaries are also Ozzy. It's near impossible to find British stuff. So far I'm still looking for the proper 'switchboard charging No1' though. Ron
  14. Here is the further information for the Wireless battery auxiliary charging system. Of course I don't know if it's exactly the same for the 4x2 Morris PU. Ron
  15. Yes I think you are right on closer inspection. It looks like a direct drive. I'll post up the further information I have later when I get chance to scan it. Ron
  16. Here it is. The dynamo is mounted on a heavy plate just above the PTO. I have the spec of the type of dynamo and regulator used. Ron
  17. Ah I see you have a generator pulley on your PTO. Mine has an air pump. Ron
  18. Jules/Martyn the colour for these Morris engines is Brunswick Green. There has been debate about whether it is mid or dark Brunswick. I have used BS 226 Mid Brunswick Green. Which you can check out at your local auto paint shop. Ron
  19. Both engines used as stationary engines I think. Ron
  20. Correct Jules. It's basically the same engine as your 4x2 but is a bit more high powered. I can't remember the full specifications but a higher lift cam shaft for one thing. Rory would know for sure. Ron
  21. I have the bare remains of a 4x4 Morris PU. Saved from a rotten chassis stored in a woods for years. Axles/gearbox/engine etc. Ron
  22. Richard, would that be the sadly missed, late Chris D? I had a good few whiskey's with him before his demise. The cheap to buy repro Lucas MT110 rear lights have a twin filament bulb, so very easy to give yourself a period looking lamp with a brake light. Ron
  23. On a bit more closer inspection of the spoke lengths. I am coming up with 11 1/4" (285.75mm) the tyre size is 26". Ron PS. I'm wondering if you have laced the spokes correctly? Let me know if you want a straight on shot of mine.
  24. Just looking at mine. It's a cotton reel hub with the same size spokes on both sides. I make them about 11 1/2" (292mm). Anything like a motorcycle wheel, you grind any excess length off the spokes on the inside of rim. Ron
  25. Yes if I were Oliver I would try and buy those fork blades in the hope that the other parts can be found or perhaps another complete fork turns up. Sometimes the only way is to collect separate parts at jumbles/ebay etc. At the right price some of these parts are better than money in the bank anyway. Ron
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