Ron

I'd want to check him out first! He's based in UK and only has a feedback of ONE!!!, and the bike is in Italy?? Ron

Yes you have the standard Lucas fag end lamp. The Miller type was only fitted to Fleas, Velo MAF's and the small batch of Miller equipped Matchless G3L's........So not very common. The one on my MAF is a repro, I'll be racing you to the next real one!! Ron

Hopefully I can get some of the wire from Lex at Kempton to replace the cotton stuff I used. The wire runs along the centre rib and is located by the two clips. I also have an original Miller tail lamp. They are not the same as the normal Lucas type and very hard to find. Dave your points are on their way. I spayed them with WD 40 but you will need to clean up the pivot point properly. Ron

Dave the bloke who is selling those points (Dave Plumb) is a long time trusted member of that forum and is well renowned for selling stuff quite cheaply. I have been aware for at least 15 years of the scarcity of those Miller contact breakers and obviously he knows it too. You just cannot buy them off the shelf, and I don't know what Villiers Services would have to do with it? Dave told me off forum that he was hoping to adapt some Japanese CB points. Might be worth emailing him. I know I offered you a NOS set for a fraction of Dave's price, but when I didn't hear back from you, I put them back in my spares stock.....But I do still have them in an emergency. Ron

The drop cradles are 100's of times rarer than the bikes! Have you seen this? http://pub37.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3155626639&frmid=9030&msgid=1336535&cmd=show Ron

Well his memory could be OK. Some pictures of them in the parachute drop frame show them without a bulb horn and there is no mention of it in my parts list for contract S7112. However the factory picture that I posted on 6th Dec (#4) of this thread shows a horn. Also this picture from Steve's book also has one fitted. I think it might just have been a case of "needs must" at the time. Ron

Ah! The problem is solved if you already have shoes. Ron

Email sent. Ron

Lex I didn't know about the "Lift the Dot" fasteners. The picture in my parts lists are not that clear. However I have several of those left over from my boating days, so I've re-done my canvas. I'll go with the shape of mine though? My parts lists shown only 5 fixings. But what is the male fitting like? Is it like this type that has a single wood screw thread? Or the type on a plate with two screws? Ron

Hi Graham I have replied to your PM. The engine cases are bare aluminium. I have simply cleaned them with white spirit. Ordinarily if the engine is totally stripped I would bead blast the cases myself of get them vapour blasted. To the most part, painted engine/gearbox cases was a post war REME workshop idea. However WW2 matchless engine/gearboxes were somewhat painted from the factory. Also some pre war BSA cases were painted with a silver lacquer which I have replicated here on my 39 C10. Ron

Quite so Graham! I have found that, pain in the bum though it is, it's easier to remove the side car body for any major work on that side of the bike........Like work on the clutch for instance. Ron

All up and running now. Just need some spring like weather to run my new piston in. Ron

This is how mine is Graham. I have a small diameter rod (1/4"?) sewn in along the top edge, and a total of 5 turn-buckles. All the original mudguards that I have seen are steel. And then you also have a steel valance on the nearside of the front wheel. Ron

5949 is from contract S1945 for 4000 WD/RE's in 1943 (same contract as mine) and the frame number being repeated on the engine case is exactly correct. However I'm intrigued to know about the actual engine number you have (M 1801). Normally the engine number would start with a 'V' (villiers carb) Ron

All together now girlfriend, with the arm movements.......Y....M....C....A. Ronxx

Thanks for the comments chaps! The engine in now fully put back together and carb overhauled. The exhaust is prepared and ready to fit. I've repaired a small crack in the otherwise very sound original type silencer, and put the tank markings and transfers on. Like the RAF there are Unfortunately no remaining records for RN census numbers. So some artistic license again by picking a number and style close to original war time images. Ron

The front wheel is now in the correct way round and I have repaired the original front mudguard that came with the bike. I wasn't happy with the repro, it didn't look quite right! The mag has been rebuilt and the engine is going back together with a rebore and new dome top piston which takes the compression from 6.1 to 7.1. New brake linings, tyre and cush rubbers at the rear wheel and an adapted WD/CO field stand, as I want to keep the panniers. A correct NOS Clearhooters horn, supplied by a Belgium friend an air filter box and some new cables fitted. I'll probably have the whole day off tomorrow....BAH HUMBUG! Ron

I think I have a spare set of points. PM me and I'll have a look. Villiers stuff is easy. Ron

It's a 35T sprocket on the wheel. Most WD bike were lower geared to their Civvy counterparts. Dropping a tooth on the civvy model would raise the gearing. I have a workshop manual and a spares list for S7712 1944. Ron

There is an extended stud shown in the parts list which fits through the silencer to exhaust pipe clamp. I have hung the rear end of my spring on that stud. No 25. If you click on any number of the Hitchcocks on line parts books, it highlights the part with price and whether it's available. Ron http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/pages/2123/Crankcase_Studs_&_Bolts_,_Decompressor,_Engine_Sprocket_&_Exhaust_System

No Davey! Apart from the carb there is nothing Villiers about the bike. First try Hitchcocks.http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/269/1946_RE125_(Flying_Flea) But bare in mind some of the post war civvy parts are different. Ron

It's Steve who is getting confused! He's confusing my frame number with yours, and he's even miss quoted that!!!..........Poor bloke is getting on in years you no! Ron

Here is my frame number on the right side headstock. Ron

That's exactly how it should be. Which shows you have the engine which was fitted to your frame at the factory. As I said, the engine was stamped on the crankcase with the frame number. Here is mine which also matched my frame. The same thing applies with other Royal Enfield models. The actual engine numbers on the C and CO for instance is stamped under the magneto, the frame number is then stamped just below the barrel. Which you can see here on one of my other RE models. I have no idea why they did it this way? Ron

The actual engine number of a Flea is stamped on the rear engine lug and should start with a 'V' ( For Villiers carb). An engine was taken from stock and once fitted to a frame, the Royal Enfield system was to then also stamp the frame number on the crankcase. Effectively giving it two engine numbers. Ron