Ron

Since this thread was first started over 3 years ago, I have made a replica of the switchboard for my PU. I hope I'm not hijacking anything. Just trying to keep the PU stuff in the same place. Ron

The one and only person I have found who makes steering stem bearings and fork spindles for Triumph heavyweight's and lightweight's is John Brewster in Sussex. I haven't seen him for a while now. jhbeng@yahoo.co.uk 01797 226775. Ron

Firstly, apart from a very few that were used as run arounds by the Royal Navy or tested and rejected by the Army a Corgi can't be classed as a military vehicle. If you need to register the bike with DVLA, your insurance company will insure the bike on the frame number. Some companies will limit the duration of this cover (weeks or months?) I doubt this will cover you for any form of use at all, as in these days of H&S, any vehicle used at a show ground must be legal and the driver should hold the respective driving licence. I insured my Welbike on the frame number about 17-18 years ago and it's remained like that ever since. But considering that a Welbike isn't road legal in the UK and so can't be registered with DVLA, there is not much option. Again I doubt I'd be covered other than in my shed. These are the rules as far as I'm aware. However you often see kids riding bikes or blokes driving tracked vehicles at shows who haven't got the correct 'H' licence. None of which bothers me! It's only when something goes wrong that the sh*t can hit the fan. Ron

After stripping the frame to bare metal and starting to get some coats of high build primer on, I just remembered that the rear foot brake is off a model C. The original was a crossover operated by a cable. I already have a model C brake pedal, and I've had to calculate the position for, and weld on the pivot spindle. Lots of zooming in on pictures and scaling up. But I can now get back to priming. I've also noted that the pedal fitted to this EXP bike is longer than standard, so some more scaling before it can be cut and extended. Ron

For several years now, I have been buying my paint from "Rainbow Paints" here in Dorset. (I see they have other branches) It's 1 pk polyurethane and fairly petrol proof and I can get it in full matt. I just bought this litre of 499 service brown last week. As usual, (even today), there would have been differences in shades between suppliers and batches and I doubt we would have been supplied paint from Canada. But I dare say they had there own similar version of Service Brown. Ron

Roy Elvin at Champ spares used to sell kits and parts for these, and still does according to his website. Ron. http://www.historic-military-vehicle-brake-carburettor-fuelpump-spares-kit.com/humber_armoured.htm

I only know of Villiers Services:- http://villiersservices.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8 I've used them for years. They do a good brake shoe relining service and I just sent them some yesterday. Ron

By lining up 3 - 1/4"X BSCycl thread nuts and welding them on the frame each side, I think the rear wheel adjusters fit the bill. Just need to get the correct looking adjuster bolts. Ron

I now have my narrowed rear hub built back into its rim. That's just a dummy spindle in the picture, I've had to modify the original spindle also. I've purposely left the overall length the same until I work out and add the wheel adjusters. Which I can see in the pictures are modified from the model D type of pedal cycle type. Ron

I was very lucky to have found a front wheel on ebay. including bearings, spindle and speedo drive gear...All in near perfect condition. Ron

Yes thanks Ben. I know Jan will be on the case. I'll email you about those other items. Cheers Ron

Today I finished putting the engine back together. The exhaust valve lifter and return spring that I had to invent seems to work well, and a friend is hewing me a tappet chest cover from a block of 8mm ally. The head needs some fins repaired, and I wont fit it till the engine is in the frame with the mag all timed up. My mag chain cover was so badly corroded that I've simply sanded it, filled the large pock marks and sprayed it with high build primer, then ally paint and petrol proof lacquer. It will just have to do until I find a decent replacement. Ron

Whew! That's chapter and verse folks! And that's just a fraction of Jan's report, which is an excellent reference especially if you own or are interested in WD Royal Enfield's. But still worth reading/owning for many more WW2 historical facts. Thanks Jan. Ron

Jan has used some trick photography and worked out that the rear carrier is made from thinner tube than a standard RE carrier. We noticed also that it only has two top rungs instead of the normal three.....All done in the interest in saving weight I guess. Jan has also used his skills at producing this lovely replica carrier for me....... Thanks a million Jan. ..Ron

A lot of the enjoyment is researching and working out how they were built. I have three very good pictures and the information that Jan and I work out between us. I am currently working on how to make the valve lifter work. I'll post a picture when it's done. Ron

Hi Steve. Hopefully Jan will respond also. According to his report, the Ally barrel/head was not all that successful and the iron parts were also used.. Also only two of the four bikes produced have had their numbers recorded. Of course there might have been some extra engines built. The flywheels are slimmed down Model C. I have been relaying all information to Jan as I find it. Ron

I wish mine had started out that complete!! Is that an official stowage point for the Chore Horse? Mine is stowed inside as per the instructions and takes up a lot of space. Ron

Cheers Ian. I think we did say a brief hello at Netley. But then you were gone! Sometimes life just gets a bit too hectic with friends....But I love it. Ron

Well ok Starfire. So far I have acquired a model D frame (ex WD as luck would have it) with engine for donor parts and a load of other model D stuff. Model C front forks and a C rear wheel which has had to have the hub narrowed by 1" to fit the frame. I've also picked up the correct ally brake plates and Jan had donated some nice correct fork parts. Unbelievably I found the correct centre stand in Austria. I'll use this thread to post future pictures as I proceed. Ron

I have acquired this engine from Tasmania. It's the remains of an engine from a Royal Enfield Experimental lightweight that only four were known to have been produced. In a nut shell the bike was built from the bottom end of a 250cc Model D engine with the slimmed down flywheels and the barrel and head from a 350cc Model C. Which was installed in a Model D frame with Model C forks and wheels. As if I haven't got enough to do, I have decided to build a replica of the bike, and I am gathering parts and information. I am getting lots of help and encouragement from Jan who runs the RE register. I'm desperately seeking a Model C or CO front wheel or just a bare hub, if anyone can help. Cheers Ron

It looks like a Universal Carrier MK1 or 2 that has had the armour cut off and been configured for some other purpose (farming maybe). Ron

No! there is a bleed off hole at the top of the bottom union nut. No amount of tightening this nut will stop this dripping if the float level is too high. As suggested, either you need to change the float groove if it has two, or drop the float bowl a tad. Ron

And here is my WD/C. Ron

That will be a 350cc model C (or WD/C). The 250 model D is unmistakable as it doesn't have the oil tank combined in the crankcase. Here is my 250 WD/D. No doubt Jan will be asking you for your frame/engine numbers for his register. You will also glean more information from these numbers once he has them. Ron

As far as I can see, the contracts for 16H's pretty well ceased in Jan 45 and the relevantly small numbers ordered would probably soon have been dispatched from the factory. I don't know how soon they restarted civy production? I guess they would have been forward thinking enough to get back into it straight away. However, you have to be careful of 'first registration dates' as that would appear on the log book on release from military service. So you could have a 1940 ex WD bike with a 1950/60 registration date. We always work from actual frame and engine numbers, and not from any paperwork...... and good pictures are always preferable. Ron