Ron

Regarding your questions:- 1) in GB£'s 4000-5000 would probably buy you a usable 16H without all the correct WD parts in place, you'd probably need up to £8000 for a much nicer and correctly restored bike. 2) for some reason the 16H is out numbered by the BSA WM20 by probably something like 20-1 and there are far more of these already in the US. Maybe some 16H's in Canada as large numbers were supplied to the Canadians. 3) start with a look on http://www.milweb.net/ or a shout on http://www.wdbsa.nl/ and http://www.wdnorton.nl/index.htm Both sites well worth looking at anyway. 4) No idea! I've only shipped the other way to UK and that was bad enough! Ron

Maybe your springs are weak? Shouldn't you use proper fork oil? If you have the correct book for your model, I would go with that. Is this a Norwegian Army bike? I'm pretty sure the British Army didn't use them. Ron

Well the Square and Compass is a coincidence as the owner of this one lives in Swanage. I'll find out more on Wednesday. Ron

Thanks for all the info Duncan, I've learn't a lot over the past few days. It's registered in 1964 (B plate) and I know now that it's a Bikini unit. Ron

Very concise Duncan, thank you. It is exactly what you describe, an AFS vehicle which is registered 1964 in the log book. The owner claims it to be 1956 which goes along with what you say. He now tells me he's found the number stamped in the chassis. I don't know a lot about these post war vehicles and I'm simply charged with checking and recording the chassis number. It's up to the owner to prove the date of manufacture. Hopefully it will enable him to get the declared date of manufacture added to the V5C. Cheers Ron PS this chap is in his 80's and I think he's getting ready to sell the vehicle. If it's of any interest? I can put you in contact.

Yes that post war number is in the 'key cards' and was in Aden in 1964, but it doesn't relate to your frame number, unless of course there was a mix up. Lex Schmidt has the key cards and will send you a copy for 5 euros (I think). Search this site or PM me for his email address. Ron

Thanks for that Richard. I've got to inspect one for DVLA registration and the owner doesn't seem to know where to look. Cheers Ron

If your frame number is WM20 95847. Then I calculate it to be the 14030th machine from 15000 built under contract S1048 which was completed in Nov 43 with a tank serial number of C5129247. As yours is near the end of the batch, I would guess it was built Oct-Nov 43. Ron

Does anyone know the location of the chassis number/plate on a 1950's Commer Q4 please. Ron

It is what you said Lauren. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armoured_Vehicle_Royal_Engineers Ron

Ian I don't recognise that stand in your first post. It must be something post war? Look at the original stand on the paving slab in post#2. They are very basic. Just two flat bars for the sides with the necessary bends and held together with two round bars. No added on lugs or bits on the feet. I know that the post war ML stand has the two round bars at different spacing to a war time stand and that the feet are 'T' shaped instead of 'L' shaped. Ron

Here is the tool kit for an ML. Probably the least of your worries with a fresh restoration. Ron

I'm not sure what you mean by "front lugs" Hear is someone else's ML. Ron

We call those "Fag End Lamps" Officially they are L-WD-MCT1-V6 which is:- Lucas- War Dept- Motor Cycle Type 1- 6 volts. whew! The ones on ebay are a bit cheap and cheerful but will do till you find an original.......Which is now getting quite hard to find and usually expensive. Again Terry Robberts at Metal Magic makes various parts for ML's and Fleas, including foot pegs. Ron

And after a complete restoration. Ron

Well I'm not Ian but here is a picture of mine. I already posted a source. Ron

Terry Roberts at Metal Magic on 01189 731631. Here is an original war time version. Post war are different. Ron

Also make sure you have the correct mixing chamber bottom union nut. There are three different lengths to choose from. It's the short one for a CO. Hitchcock's can help you for Amal parts. Ron

When I bought my Tilly back in 1989 it came with an original tilt, but the top (Bren gun) panel had been replaced with a totally different colour canvas. So I bought a new one off the Worthing's, which was just a tilt with no windows or panels. They also made me a rad muff. But then they gave up on British stuff to concentrate solely on US vehicles. Some years later when Allied forces started up, I gave my original tilt to Jim to hopefully find a suitable piece of canvas to replace my top panel, which he eventually did after about 3 years. I think he used it as a pattern to make some tilts and he also borrowed my rad muff to copy. Sadly since Martyn retired and left Jim on his own, I think he also concentrates on just US vehicles. But worth a call I would think and maybe mention my name. Ron Pier

Tony, I love my son and my Grandkids to bits, but sadly no interest in anything remotely green or oily. I guess by the time the Great Grandkids come along it will all have been sold off and transferred into smart cabriolets and home extensions. Ron

I couldn't begin to break it down Tony. Apart from the big end and mains white metalling. My rebuild included new pistons and re-bore, all new valves/guides/springs and hardened seats. Hard chrome re-metalling to the cam shaft, surface grinding to block and head and remade rear oil thrower.... etc, etc. Ron

My own Morris PU has a 6 cyl engine with all white metal bearings. There are still some specialists around to perform the task. I'm sure someone will advice you of someone in your neck of the woods. Basically the metal has to be poured in then machined to fit the shaft. In the old days the metal was often scraped to size. My advice would be to take the block, crankshaft, rods to the specialist for complete check and overhaul. You'll only have to do it once. Ron PS I won't tell you how much my engine rebuild cost!!!

Yes I am aware Richard but worth pointing it out for others. I bought a 5 gall drum of the stuff with a mate from 'Specialised Products' in Ferndown. The axles however take Hypoid oil. I'm also aware of not using EP oil in old gearboxes with Bronze parts. I'm just waiting for my mate to get his arse over here to help me put the trans back. Cheers Ron

Is this by chance the Jeep I inspected near Dorchester recently? I agree with the others. No CoC or MOT is required. However DVLA do pick vehicles at random for inspection. I'm told at about 1 in 10. Hopefully you will be lucky and not get picked on. Just fill out the required form with the dating letter from MVT and see how you get on. DVLA also seem to have a habit of losing your cheque and or asking for extra information. Ron

Nick Jeffrey explained to me that the brass synchro ring must be a tight fit to the taper on the gears. Such that when you push the ring onto the 2nd gear taper you should be able to pick the gear up by the brass ring and shake it about without it dropping off. They soon bed in of course, but it makes logical sense to me now that I have stripped and rebuilt my gearbox. Here's hoping for some crunch free gear changes at last. Ron