R Cubed

Hi Rob, I see in the second pic of post No 15 on page two of this thread, you have the nut back on the end of the hydraulic ram fixed to the sledge, can you explain what you have done to keep the barrel and sledge in the ready to fire position, was the nut there when you got the gun or have you bought one ? The barrel cleaning rods which you have made the brass ends for, could you show how these go together, I presume there is one brass screw on each end of the wood shafts ? Tell us more.

Here are some pics of the finished cab sides, just need a little filler and paint and all will be good. This is the inside of the side panel of the cab, the lower part of the bare metal part is what has been replaced. So after some work here is the bonnet nearly finished, but you can see what has been done, considering I don't have any fancy tools for shaping the sheet metal I think I am doing well. This is the outside right front corner, minus the bonnet hook bracket. This is the inside of the same corner. Notice my new recess for the bonnet rubber buffer. This is the outside left front corner, minus the bonnet hook bracket. This is the inside of the same corner.

Here are some pics of the inside front edge of the bonnet before I got my hands on it. This is inside front left corner, in top left of pic you can just see the bonnet hook bracket, centre of pic is a rubber buffer which stops the bonnet rattling on the top of the radiator brush guard, there should be 3 of then I only had 2 and don't think they are correct as the recesses are smaller than the rubbers. Same as above but this is the right hand side notice the bonnet rubber is missing. This is a little further back on the left hand side of the bonnet showing the cut out so the bonnet misses the radiator surround, then on the out side is the hook bracket. Same as above but showing the right hand side. This is a pic of the left bonnet hook bracket This is a pic of the right bonnet hook bracket, this one is only just on there !

Been on and off getting on with the de-rusting of panels, the cab side panels are now done, awaiting priming and paint. got on with the bonnet, issue here was the bonnet hinges were welded to the bonnet due to the fixing bolts being broken off, and then the front bonnet latch points had rotted out, this proved a challenge as those sections of the bonnet are curved in all directions especially down to the front corner :mad: well got on and cut out all the rotted bits and beat some new metal about for an hour or so and hey presto got some nice new metal to re-fix the catches to, I will post some pics of the before and after when I get a chance. How time goes by only about 8 weeks to get it done no pressure then :wow:

Thanks this job I have been putting off for several years now and it got to the point of having to be done, when you get your bits from Allied Forces could you post some pics as you might be there before me and it would be nice to see some pics.

Owwww please please go on please.:cool2:

Hi you are looking for anti squeek welting, this is the point I am at with the rebuild of my GMC open cab, spoke to Dallas Autos at a show and they seem to have a good selection for the beading try Allied Forces or any other canvas company.

Snap ... pardon the pun, the springs off my Howitzer are just the same, just about to get a set made in the next couple of weeks ! So there you go there are at least 3 105's here then, all ex Greece lets have some pics.

Right so same engines in both trucks driving the standard ward g/boxes. Have you thought of just getting an air to air intercooler for your truck or is there a space issue under the bonnet !!! Hmmm would one of those engines fit in a GMC :cool2:

Is it possible for someone to confirm the dates of this event so I can get on and book some time off. Is it still Fri, Sat and Sun ??

You have a PM

Is this the same engine as Mikes WLF has ? will this one go better !!!

No one in particular, I think we both admitted defeat once we started going out with each other and found out what each other was like, that was nearly 20 years ago and it has been down hill ever since, but to be honest we have had some great fun.

Welcome to you both glad to see the trucks going to get a sort out, did jack throw in the pink cushion for the truck !!!

A Good few years ago a friend of mine had one, a Chevy K5 Blazer, that's the one in the middle and bottom pics isn't it, for such a big truck and 5.7 Ltr V8 petrol had a real weeny carb on it, but would pull anything at a good 50 MPH all day was pretty good on fuel too, I was well miffed when he bought it as it made my Range Rover I had at the time look a tiny bit weeny, well actually quite small.

Been there several years ago, not just military trucks also classic cars and trucks, think there was a 5th wheel tractor unit in that collection, shame the owner is no longer with us.

The Cent is up at a REME museum near us and thought showing the mil reg no might raise some posts ! my son is peering out through the thick window. The Sherman is at the Aldershot military museum I think.

OMG :wow: One to tell all my friends about, interesting thing is he goes on about a chemical reaction so what is involved to cause this. My thoughts are as above, I have seen car fires ect and no tyre problems, I have had sticking brakes and no tyre explosion, must have been lucky. Maybe its new modern tyres which may have other chemicals in the composition of the tyre which don't like heat. Could be why you see so many truck tyres on the hard shoulder with no side walls, run a bit flat this generates some heat the chemical reaction starts pressure increases and bang goes the tyre. Still a remarkable demo to see how little heat was applied and the result after only 3 mins going to be very wary of tyres in the future.

You all sound perfectly normal to me. We have dust and cobwebs in corners, there are all kinds of bits and pieces in many places, two boys with clothes and bits of paper all over the place, we call it lived in, there are oily clothes hanging up dirty coats ect and we get on with living and love it who are the normal ones then. People who have houses that you don't want to go to in case you put dirty marks on their white carpets or move an ornament out of place, they are very strange, how can you live like that.

Thanks for the update keep us posted. Good luck with everything.

Any update on this.... Is there a confirmed date ? Tell us more...

Yea but if I paid peanuts you would be convulsing on the floor and foaming at the mouth. So pay peanuts get dead friends !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Back here again, Had some help again over the week end and some lovely weather too, so got on and removed the rest of the cab off the truck. First thing was to unbolt the main floor from the two cab chassis rails once this was done it was possible to remove the main floor so just leaving the cab cowl and dash assy in place fixed to the cab chassis rails. Here you can see the cab chassis rails just outside the trucks main chassis rails. Just a little pointer to what is what. Below you can see the main floor panel and the seat base frame. This is the main floor panel again but with the seat base removed. This is the left hand side cab chassis rail, also showing the position of a floor support bracket. These rails are bolted to the cab cowl in the corners, a fiddly job, once unbolted these rails can be removed. This is where it came from these are handed so there is another one on the right hand side of the truck floor This is just rotated forward to see the other side of the bracket. Looking forward into the cab towards the engine. Once the cab chassis rails have been unbolted off the forward part of the cab it now leaves the cab cowl and dash assy free of the truck, NOTE remember to keep your eyes open for all the little wires and cables and earth straps you have missed which will stop you getting too far. The two most important ones are the water temp capillary tube, break this off and its time for a new gauge !!!!!!!! the other is the flexy hose the oil pressure gauge, just down by the foot pedals. We have just started rolling the cab off the chassis. Important Note...... When getting friends to help ensure they don't take all the weight of the cab and then slip over, if this happens you get !!!!!. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . THIS . . . . . Well after the initial crash and bang, I went for the camera first, well you would wouldn't you, then it was "oh are you ok over there" After some mumbling and other words which are best left to the moment, we got back on with the job. Below is the dash and cowl off the truck. Here I have marked the fixing bolts which at this point are the only ones holding the two bits together there are 7 bolts across the top part of the dash which have captive nuts, very handy. the far outer two bolts on the dash panel do have loose nuts, then the last two are at the far outer edges of the dash but on the underside lip, theses again are nuts and bolts. This is the last bit at the moment this is the cab cowl.

Here is the finished rear cab panel just need some green paint !!!! Here is the new pane I made for the side panel This is the other side panel of the cab looks worse but is a bit better I have just cut the rusty bit out Here the rusty section has been cut out At present I am making a new panel for this side will post some more later in the week

Fair enough, pictures can be deceiving good luck might see you over on the IoW this year then.