R Cubed

I am sorry to say I have not done either, but in my defence the oil drained has always been debris free, not the best answer I know though. Now the sump is off I have to say there is a lot of sludge in there but it has a hard crusty surface to it so I think it has suffered before I wore it out. Yes modifications will be to retain the original bypass oil filter casing to be aesthetically pleasing but not functional, and to cap off the oil feed to the filter, this is all that will be necessary as the oil pump is capable of producing far more than 40 psi which my engine generally ran at so all it will mean is there will be a little more oil flowing thought the oil relief valve back to the sump, just like a modern engine.

The strip down is going well, as ever daily work getting in the way of play. Anyway suspect poor old engine is well worn, big ends and main shells have surface cracking all over them and also very rough with some scoring although not down to any base metal, will post some pics when I get a chance. Also I think pistons are bad too as some of them when you push them up the bores towards the top of the head and then let go they slide back down the cylinders :mad: ( this is with the engine still in the truck ) Now I know the pistons are heavy but surely they should not do this with limited view the cylinder bores look unmarked though !!!!!!!!

Thanks very much, quite right wont need them for several days yet... :mad: Presume all main / big end and head bolts can be all reused ?

Hi all, with the engine disassembly of my GMC 270 going well and the questionable wear on pistons / rings, the big ends and mains as a start point :cry: :cry: :cry: ( don't mention how frequently I change the oil as I make it a point to do it at the start of every season and use Morris straight 30 ) I have been wondering about fitting a modern full flow remote filter, is there anyone out there who knows what the average micron size of modern spin on oil filter can is, or can suggest what they might think it should be ? I might have a damn fine way of fitting a remote filter to a standard engine without the risk of drilling the block stay tuned....

Does the chap on the back of the telle handler make all the difference to it tipping up with the weight of the Cat on the front..

I tried to do this on my GMC but they came out too good oh well must try less next time. Great pic though just goes to show as long as you could make out what it was it did not matter.

Bit of an update, set timing to the ball mark ( 5 deg BTDC ) upped the idle a bit so ticks over at about 800 RPM the Vac reading is now rock steady at approx 21" Hg engine seems to rev better and picks up quicker.. BUT the knock is MUCH louder and much more noticeable so have made the decision to strip down as far as necessary to find problem, still suspect No 4 as removing the plug lead removes the knock !!!! tappet clearances on all cylinders are all fine !! Will see what today brings. Can anyone come up with the torque settings for big ends and head settings and sequence of tightening ?

Hi all, while I crack on with Big end Little end engine problem, I have also noticed one side of the rear springs has settled by about 2 inches !!! :wow: does any one know the spec for them or have a good pair ? Seems I can wear out a GMC.......

That all looks great must take ages to set up just right, would love to come up and see it all, but other things are causing a pain in the wotsit !!!!! at the moment so will give it a miss this time. Keep up the good work and lets have lots of pics after.

The distributor is new old stock and was in very good shape when I fitted it about 4 years ago, no play in bushes and also regularly greased via greasing knob. centrifugal advance mech is working fine and free to move against the springs, when released the rotor arm returns to the start point, so no play there, this is why I changed the old one, bushes worn and springs stretched. Will start by setting timing to spec and work from there. Also I noticed when cleaning and gaping plugs, all were quite a dark straw colour would this indicated they were running a bit hot, suggestions please ?

It seems to have reduced the sound lots so I am going to hold off the strip down until I have carried out some more "tuning" and done some road runs this week.

It does say in the book to alter timing to compensate for different fuels I seem to remember someone saying that you could bring the timing towards TDC until you get pinking and then back it off a few degrees till it stops is this good practice ? I will also try the vacuum gauge method and see how that performs. Ultimately this seems to have reduced the noise so I am now going to hold off the strip down at the moment.

Book says 5 deg btdc, the truck itself seems to idle better at about 10 deg btdc !! so you are saying then it would be better to advance it, when you say advance do you mean move closer to tdc or further away from tdc ? I will play more this week will carry out some road tests too.

This was before any adjustments. Now I have gapped the plugs, they were opened up a very little, now right at 0.025 thou. Checked points gap, this had closed up a bit cleaned the bump off and set them to 0.020 thou also timed it to a sweet idle, the vac gauge is now dead still at 21 Inch Hg at idle. The timing is way off the 5 deg BTDC that it should be, but suspect this is due to the higher octane fuel, I would say that it is idling nicely at about 10 deg BTDC as the ball marker in the flywheel ( which indicates 5 deg BTDC ) is to the left as you look through the window of the bell housing at the flywheel. Now is this too retarded should it be running nearer to TDC so between 5 deg and 0 deg ? What are others timed at.

Here are two videos, the first was to show the knocking sound but has not turned out very well !! The second shows the vacuum readings mostly at idle and then revved sharply followed by the fall back to idle. Hope this helps.

Errrr yes its a deep 2 piece sump...... Do you know something that I am about to find out !!!!!:red:

Interesting point will look in to that Thanks.

Thanks for the advice I think I am going to have a rummage in a couple of weeks when I get a chance to get to it.

You might be right !!!!!! No I have not checked the valve clearances yet Will put it on the list of things to check.

Wow do you need a new drill after that or did you go gentle with it ......sounds like it gave you the run a round, man after my own heart. A cool adaptor to convert a 1/2" chuck to morse taper :bow:

Hmm that might grow on me......:laugh:

I have a problem, my engine in my CCKW352 has a fairly deep knock, I will try to describe the scenario. When run on the road in normal driving it is there when ever it is put under load, accelerating, If stationary and you rev gently up to a steady 1500 or 2000 revs all is ok, if you rev hard from tick over as in a brrrrruuuummm there is a deepish knocking sound every time it is revved hard. Not on the run down from the hard rev back to tick over. Now it does not seem to sound like an exhaust blow but not positive, the knock seems to be coming from the top of the engine, also have carried out a compression test and with all plugs out it goes like this starting from front by water pump, all in PSI. First attempt No1 135, No2 130, No3 115, No4 115, No5 120, No6 120. Second attempt No1 130, No2 120, No3 115, No4 115, No5 130, No6 120. I seem to have isolated it to No4 if you remove the plug lead to it and run the engine apart from the rougher idle from being down one cylinder and the consistent miss, the noise has gone. HELP.

Ho ho that's a good idea !!! :cool2: What was the towing capacity of the CCKW 5th wheel tractor unit ? did it differ mechanical from the standard cargo version ?

I can see I am going to have trouble with you lot up there,,,, am I going to have to keep you all apart... Or maybe, better still I will get Rosie to sort you all out :cool2:

Dont really know what I want, suppose what I was driving at was something cheap to buy cheap to run and get spares for easily. but as there is so much out there it all gets very confusing :nut: how does the weight loading work for tractor units, I presume it has alot to do with the number of axles and springs, so do all 4x2's have the same max load ? For hauling loads for my own benefit does the tacho come into play !!!!!!! How does the road fund license work on trucks ? what is the mot like and costs ? and average cost of insurance for hauling for myself ( not hire and reward ) ? What are peoples likes and dis-likes for trucks then ? what manufacturer AEC, ERF, MAN, Foden ect. 4x2 manual with 200+ HP what sort of engine ? what sort of gearbox ?