deadline

Does anyone sell/reproduce those frame fittings? Even if you heat them up to loosen them they may be corroded beyond reuse....

Oil? NONE Grease: NLGI 2 GC/LB You don't fill up the hub. Pack the rzeppa/bendix joint balls and knuckle. Slather about 1/6th inch (2-3mm) thick coat of grease on the inside of the knuckle ball. The grease inside the hub is nothing more than to prevent rust on the knuckle ball. The bendix/rzeppa joint, once packed, will lubricate the joint for many, many miles. Whenever you repack the wheel bearings, repack the CV joints. The old school 'knuckle pudding' is pure hokum. There is no splash lubrication or other goofyness going on.

I've had to have my jeeps crankshaft ground twice and you must be thorough when you investigate the shop that you are going to have work done at. Many times they don't have specs for wartime motors (GM/GMC spec catalogs simply skip 1942-1945), and civvy specs may not be correct. I took my printout of tolerances and asked the shop what they would grind to... one shop was wrong, one was right and had had previous experience with jeeps. Ask them LOTS of questions... have them explain everything. Tour the shop. A clean shop and well cared for machines is a good sign then are meticulous. Cluttered shop, poorly maintained machines.... does not give me a lot of confidence. The shop was an extra 45 minute drive, but anyone can grind a crankshaft... few can grind it PROPERLY.

My jeeps hi/lo selector fork was worn (common jeep transfer case issue) and I welded up the fork pad (GMAW - MIG), filed and fit the fork back in place. There was a few thousandths clearance when I was done. Hopefully that will last another 60 years. Those gears do not look to worn. A little chamfer on the leading edges is just bad double clutching. What you are really concerned about is the mesh of the teeth. You can dress the gear with a file to clean up the burrs. But most of the time the gears proper are not the cause of popping out... the forks/rails/poppets are. but if you have the £ to put in new gears, go for it... a how to would be great!

COOL you have the rear exhaust and not the stack by the passengers door... makes the ride much more tolerable with the exhaust out the back. I'm not sure if the UK uses Ethanol in its fuel... the water in the ethanol can allow for algae to grow in diesel fuel.. clogging up filters. So if you do mix petrol and diesel have some Algae-X or similar on hand. Always have at least two spare primary filters and a set of secondaries on board. If you clog up a primary, changing a filter does not fix the problem... you still have a tank full of crap to worry about.

TM9-801 page page 153 para 63c c. Slips Out of Gear. This condition is usually caused by weak or broken shift rod poppet springs, a bent shifting fork, or the gears in the transmission are worn excessively and the transmission assembly must be replaced (pars. 154 and 155) I assume by washer they mean a thrust washer? No matter what, you are taking out the entire unit. For a free copy of TM9-801 go to: http://www.tm9-801.com/tm9-801/index.php

When you mean 'sort out 5th gear' what exactly is going on? Pops out of 5th? (Bent/worn shift fork/rail,poppet balls/springs missing) Cannot engage 5th? (worn gears, bend shafts/rails missing poppet balls/springs) Excessive noise? (worn gears, bad bearings/bushings) As long and the shift lever and the guide plate are working you cannot do much to the transmission with it still installed.

The proper procedure for dropping the transmission is on TM9-801 page 288. The rebuild is in TM9-1801. A free copy of the TM9-801 is available at: http://www.tm9-801.com/tm9-801/index.php Unless you have a transmission lift, I would lessen the load by removing the PTO (you will at least need to remove the linkages and shafts, anyway). I haven't weighed the trannys, but I would say they are easily 100-150kg and not very easy to grab on to.

Once a battery is drained 'dead' (realistically less than 4 volts) its shot on a 6V battery. Technically the battery is charged at 6.3V and fully depleted (0% charge) at 6.0 V. You read that right. Your battery lives in a .3V range. Every battery manufacturer will tell you the same thing... once below the discharge voltage bad things happen. In the US a battery warranty is prorated for prorated return. I'd just take it back, let them test it, determine its dead and get another. 6V systems are not hard to fix, and they work just fine. They need a little more maintenance... but the 24V system on my M35A2 (2 12V batteries in series) still has ground issues. But once the ground is cleaned it all works as advertised.

If you drive that infrequently why go to the hassle of finding a 6v fuel pump or rewiring for 12v? As part of your 'I haven't driven it it a while check tires, oil and brake fluid levels' give the fuel pump priming handle a few cranks? Sounds like a lot of work and money to solve a problem that is already been solved (aka the primer handle).

I guess since you are on the metric system it could be yellow. :-D I think 1 metric volt is .4190 US Standard volt. Unless the system is ISO9000 certified :-D:-D Still, a working coil is still making many thousands of volts. A spark plug gap is no more than 2-3 mm so if the spark will jump 5-10 mm then its going across the spark plug. Even if the vehicle sits long enough for the fuel in the carb to evaporate from the bowl (and that should take a while.. as in days) then you should be able to fill it within 10-20 revs of the engine via starter... the fuel from the pump to the filter should not go anywhere... all other things working properly. You may want to do a fuel pressure and flow test on your pump. Just to see how much fuel is getting pushed out per pump. After repairing my jeeps engine I did have to dial in the distributor to get an easy start. The best setting via the vacuum gauge was not the best setting for starting. I would have Jean crank the motor as I slowly turned the dist to find the sweet spot to get a quick start. Wear and tear on these old engines will make things like factory timing marks more like 'recommendations' than cast in stone settings.

The check valve in a AC type F fuel pump should hold a prime for a day or so easy. If you have one (or can get one) install a glass pulsator dome (that's what its really called). Start the engine and watch the fuel... it should perculate. IF you let it sit a day or so you can see if the fuel has leaked out. If the fuel does disappear, it can only go on the ground or into the crankcase, or be sucked back into the fuel tank. When I was reading the TM, it did note that the fuel tank cap's pressure valves may not be working. Can you run with the cap unscrewed but still on the tank neck? If it starts with ether or pouring gas into the carb then it sounds like a fuel issue. Testing the spark is easy, remove a spark plug wire and hold it about 5mm from the plug. Watch (and feel) the spark. Should be a nice blue/white and pop.

You should not need to add fuel directly into the carb. If your accelerator pump is working pumping the foot pedal 2-3 times does the same thing. If you take off the air cleaner and at the carb, FULLY open the throttle via the linkage you should see a very obvious squirt of gas (thats what the accelerator pump does).

You will not find a repro ford spring with the bevel and all. MD Juan was supposed to have made some but they were horrid. I don't think they are available. As long as the springs have the right length eye to eye and can carry the same load you should not feel and difference in handling. Get a copy of TM9-1803B and look at page 99. Has the complete specs for both front and rear springs. Take that to a shop and hand them some money. Visually they will not be the same, but mechanically they will be.

Go here: http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM35sTMdownloadpage.htm The TMs are very straight forward for testing. That is not the same alt I have.... M35a2s have been around for 40 years and have all sorts of different hardware on them. That looks like an earlier unit. The later high amp units do not have connectors on the top. Grounds are STILL A HUGE ISSUE on M35s. So make sure you are down to bare metal and use a dialectic grease. Are you sure that is the right regulator? Like I said the data plate on the truck is of little value.... I cannot order parts for my 66 buy just saying I have a 66 M35a2. You have to order for the right assembly you are repairing. Your alternator does not look like a stock unit. Its not the 100amp high output, nor the stock 60 amp, and not the very old 25 amp unit. What do the tags on it say? Get me a part number and I can get you a TM.

The front spring MOUNTS have numerous permutations depending on short/long wheel base, with or without winch, split or banjo axles.... many, many variations. The SPRINGS proper for the front are simple: one for with winch, one without. It does not matter if there is a gun ring, 352/353 or what the cargo body or axle type was.

Shipping is a full 2/3rds of that. Of the two I know about the closest is 1100 miles away, the other about 1800. Would be nice if there was one closer... but these seem to be uncommon in the US. I could take the M35 out to get it... and spend about $1k in fuel. But at 45mph that's 48 hours of drive time.

I really don't have any information about the wrecker sets. I would buy one (useful or not) if it was proper and priced right. Just like I would by a MG mount, even though I have little use for one. My fear is paying to much for a part that is not period correct. If the part is post war, and I can prove it, I have more leverage in negotiations. I don't know the seller, so I cannot put much faith in his valuation. I know the style and format of data tags changed post war (they were mostly steel and printed, not zinc and etched) but there could be some overlap, or one could be wrong. All told with shipping it would be about a $3000 purchase. For that amount of money a bit of due diligence is warranted.

What SUPER CONFUSING is this TB: TB 9-4910-492-30 It shows the curved support (and mounting instructions!!) But its from the 1970s!

This is what I am talking about: The site calls it a 'bomb hoist' but it does not match the SNL-G-508's images. Also the wrecker set seems to have a least TWO separate diagonal support beam ends. One 'droops' the other is straight. Note the 'droop' at the ends of the diagonal supports Note this is straight: Different manufacturers?

So you would be happy to pay for something that is advertised as a Rolls Royce, but ends up being an MG Miget? Let me rephrase it: I don''t need a mixed mashed salad of parts that are not what they should be, nor ay a premium for a WWII part when its made in the 60's. I'm sure you would have the same concerns if it were your money on the line. So, do you have any way to ID a 1940's era production No. 7 set?

That's what I want to avoid... paying a premium WWII era price and not getting an original WWII era unit. I know some of the obvious changes were made to the center support bar (the nice radius was removed in favor of a welded angle) but when did that change? The 50s? As for tags and proper parts, that just to bargain on price. Gives me more room to negotiate. I have a gantry crane in my shop, so I don't need a No. 7 set... but it would be a nice trinket.

Tags make or break some items. For example: Say WWII #7 has a cast brass plate and post war are steel. That strengthens the buyers position as its not a WWII item, just a post war one. On most items you can add/lose a few hundred dollars just for factory tags alone. At the least I would expect a tag for SN, DoD, capacity, manufacturer. How else would they get parts? I've asked for pictures... we'll see what shows up.

How far out of the back does it stick out? Any area's I should check that would make it just an ornament a workable unit? Are there any tags I should look for???

If would depend on the barbs on your fuel filter. Using hose clamps you only need to be 'close'. Most of the plastic filters I have used were 1/4in ID hose.