deadline

The steering fill plug is 1/2in pipe thread, so the head should be 1/2in also. There are more and larger plugs on the axles, transmission and transfer case, but most of those should be reachable with a an spanner. 3/4ths in seems to be the largest plug, other than what is used on the brake master cylinder and deep sump oil drain plug.

I'd like to add another *must have* item If your truck is still 6V (like all proper CCKWs should be ) you'll need a 6V to 12V dc-dc converter to power gadgets like phones, GPS and recharge LED torches. They are small and very easy to wire up. Or a 5V solar charger with the proper hookups.

8 point sockets will work (I forget that they even made them). The were very common years ago.. but most tool kits/sets will only have 6 or 12 point sockets... neither have the correct geometry to grep a square head really well. If you look at an 8 point socket, its two squares 90degres apart... I have a full set from my craftsman kit I bought in the mid 80's and could never figure out what they were for... they never worked on 6 sided bolts.

Take spares! I have no idea what the local auto parts places are like in Europe, but I would take spare (2 or 3): Lights/bulbs fan belt Radiator cap AND GASKET!! Radiator hoses (at least two of each total of 6 - if you still use the metal pipe) At least 10-20 liters of water (either in jerry cans or whatever) A liter or two of oil to top off. Tools Torches - ha! you thought I was going to say flashlight! If you have a tire product like 'Slime' I'd put that in all 11 tires. Getting a tube may not be easy. You could travel with a patch kit... but I'd seriously question the ability of anyone to break down a split rim on the side of a road without proper tools. If you can, get a some gel cushions to sit on... those springs will get old in a few hours. Blankets (open or closed cabs... they are not insulated). Creature comforts (ear plugs, gloves, goggles) I envy the though of retracing the actual paths that CCKWs traveled during the war. Driving my jeep for a day (a few dozen miles, tops) is exhausting. I get in my Dodge and my legs are still in 'manual steering/brake/clutch' mode and will mash all the controls for the first 5 minutes till I remember that everything is powered.

Agreed... not do pile on, but my CCKW work in progress sat for 8 months over the winter. I put 2 gallons of gas in the tank, pumped the priming lever less than 20 times and could hear the carb fuel bowl fill up. A properly sealed fuel system will prime quite well with the priming lever. If you can't just hit the primer and get fuel then you have an issue. The system works quite well. If my jeep sits a week I usually have to give it 3-4 primer pumps before I can start it.. but each time I can hear fuel squirting into the carb fuel bowl. I think the biggest issue is that the pot metal valve seats erode and no longer provide a 100% seal. I read a tip on G503.com to put use a fuel safe non-hardening sealant (so you can get the valves back out when the go). I've done that on both fuel pumps and it seems to have done the trick.

Tow starting is not going to do anything useful. You will need to check the hard lines and hoses for cracks/leaks. If you have an air compressor you could pressurize the fuel tank a few PSI and look for leaks, or do the old soapy water test. Most common problem for me is the fuel strainer gasket... if you let the bowl rotate you can damage the gasket quite easily.

Anything by GM/Harrison should have a tag on it. Not a jeep/CCKW/Chevy radiator.

There is no oil galley or other supply of oil past the timing cover oil seal. The pulley key way is forward of the seal, and the nut it screwed on. The oil might be dripping down from the oil filter supply line... but that's an easy check (did you install the rubber grommet that goes in the hole on the oil filter bracket that the oil supply line runs through?) Most likely you have a wear spot on the crank from age, or the seal itself if bad/installed wrong. Did you reinstall the oil slinger and gasket that is supposed to go on the crankshaft in front of the timing gear? Did you put sealant in the bore of the timing sprocket? A copy of TM9-803A has all this information.

How worn was the shaft from the previous seal? Typically seals will wear a grove into the shaft they are sealing against, and if its deep enough the seal will leak. The other source of a leaking seal is the recess that the seal is fitted into is out of round/damaged and allows oil to get by. You're going to have to take the nut/pulley/timing cover off and look at the timing cover seal recess for damage and the crank shaft for wear. The crank shaft could be sleeved (Speedy Sleeve is a common product) or the timing cover replaced. You could also have put the seal in backwards, or damaged the lip of the seal during installation. In any case time to take things apart and have a look-see.

The Tactical Retreat is valid military maneuver... unless you are Klingon.

It must be a European thing. When a Ford GPW motor was overhauled it was not repainted gray, but OD. Post War: The M38 motor was OD The M211, M135 and M35 motors were all OD I'm trying the think of a snarky 'American oil doesn't hide' comment.. but nothing comes to mind :laugh:

There would be little contrast to see a leak. A light colored liquid on a light colored background? And why only the CCKW's 270? Jeeps were handed over post war and I don't see many neon green jeep motors. Most of the crated post war rebuilt in france motors were OD like the MBs.

I hope the humor of my last post came across. Yeah, lots of color commentary (pun intended) over the last few years... but in this rare instance it can be traced back to GM what the color of the engine was. What I find odd is that while the US Army painted overhauled engines OD green, why would all the post war Marshall Plan and later NATO Countries come up with all these wild neon green variation? I'll leave that topic for a much later discussion.

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-48-Engine-Paint-Olive-GMC/productinfo/88-055/#.UXbxhcqP7gY This is THE CORRECT COLOR. Yes, I said that in bold. Yes I am saying it with certainty. Yes I am sure. You can read about it here: http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=782 You will need to log in to see the photos, but its the right stuff.

I looked at mine and the fill plug is not square, but has a rectangular shape to it.. so mine may not be original, just what someone had laying around that fit the hole. You should be able to buy one of these tools: 'Stubby' adjustable wrench... 4-6 inches log (I have one from when I owned my M35A2... no way to take off the brake master cylinder fill plug without it. An angle head open end wrench (60deg). A crows foot attachment on the end of an extension to a ratchet One of those things should work.

The valves in the pump could be stuck shut. Have you cleaned the mesh fuel strainer in the pump? That can get crusty. Take the pump off and actuate the pump lever by hand... you should hear the air move through the valves... it makes a snorting sound if all is working. There is an AC fuel pump rebuild TM TM9-1828A http://www.tm9-801.com/tm9-1828a/index.php If anything is wrong with the pump that TM will show you how to fix and rebuild it. A kit is less than $20 and takes about 30 minutes.

Since you have a glass PULSATOR (that's what its called, the air trapped in the top of the dome actually contributes as much as 50% of the fuel flow to the carb) when the motor is cranking you should see the fuel 'jump about'. If its mostly just sitting there then your valves are not opening (most likely the suction side). If you can visibly see fuel in the pulsator then the diaphragm is most likely good (on a metal pulsator you could not see the fuel, and would have to drain the oil). One more likely situation: Take the petrol tank cap off and try to start. The cap is supposed to have a vacuum and pressure release valves (like a radiator cap). If your cap is not venting properly, the tank itself may have slight vacuum and the fuel pump many not be able to overcome it. There are two seals you need to check : One under the pulsator dome, one at the fuel filter.

With very few exceptions, CCKWs were OD or Gray (Navy). The exceptions would by fire trucks, or trucks that would have worked on an AAF base... they could have been painted some sort of high visibility color or marking. There also was a one time trial of camouflage (for the Mediterranean theater IIRC). If you have the book GMC a Universal Truck you'll see LOTS of CCKWs in civilian livery of all colors. As for history, the best you can hope for is to determine your registration number (painted on the bonnet) and *maybe* see that in a photo. But the odds of that are pretty low. Every truck has a story, mine supposedly never left the North West part of the US and when released from service went to work at Boeing Field (yes, THAT Boeing field) yet I have never come across a photo of the truck at the field.... but the doors ARE painted Boeing Field, and there was firefighting pumps/sirens on it when I got it.... but can I *prove* it? Other than 'the previous owner told me' nope. Its a great story though.

Could have been parked and an arty shell or bomb landed on it. Whats kinda funny is that they already salvaged the tires.

Good luck to the guy that has to drive an M35 with 10,000lbs of cargo. The M35 is anemic empty. CCKWs have been carrying 5 tons since the War Dept allowed it mid-war. You must increase the tire pressure 1 psi per additional 1,000lbs carried. IIRC the M35 does not have this stipulation... but it does have larger tires to begin with. You should have heard them howl when I told them that

If you haven't already, go here: http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM35sTMdownloadpage.htm and download the TM's. You could also buy all the TM's on DVD off ebay, but they are all the same. You should get them all because the early TMs are much more useful than the later ones. Biggest TM tip I can give you is that of the TM number ends in a 'P' then its the parts manual.

The seal in a hard brake line is make by the tube flare. The fitting is just there to hold things together. So as long the the fitting has the proper threads and flare type it will work... no matter what its called.

First thing you need to do is make sure the hood (bonnet?) has the safety latch to keep it open. Mine did not.. that hood can catch the weakest of breeze and slam shut on you. And no matter what you are told... if you have the plastic vacuum wipers DO NOT squirt any lube into them. They need to be DRY to run. You may not know it, but you will spend an amazing amount of time under the hood. There are hose clamps to keep tight, filters to change, fluids to check, ground wires to keep clean. It looks like you have an M35A2C drop side bed. If you have the proper quick disconnect bow corners you will end up using that feature a lot. It really comes in handy if you have cargo. Enjoy the truck! When you top off the fuel tank let us know what it costs

Some of the fittings on a CCKW are no longer made, or more correctly, are no longer standards in the line/hose/fitting specifications. Plus you have to wonder what is still an original part, what has been swapped after the truck was given to another government, and finally what did the previous owners do to it. So the answer might just be 'all of them'

No need to apologize. I emailed the original video poster trying to see if I could speak with his father, but he said that his father was not feeling well. That was just before Thanksgiving of 2012. This video has been re-posted under several user accounts. PATHE video archives also has a good CCKW video, and its been posted here also... search the forum for the link.