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deadline

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  1. This is the third time this video has been posted here.
  2. Yeah.. that's kinda obvious. TM9-801 has all of 1 sentence regarding tube repair: Para 191(d) Pg 361 d. Tube Repair. Hydraulic tubing may be cut and flared with standard flaring equipment. What you want to do is get a copy of the Nov 1944 Army Motors, it has a complete write up on the new brake line routing. Other than being a standard double flare and the needing the proper frame rail T's its all standard stuff. Just be careful that the counter person doesn't give you ISO parts (ie metric) instead of standard fittings.
  3. Very true. I start each year by doing the 6000 mile Technical inspection... its just such a good list and goes over everything. Takes a full weekend to do if I keep at it (about 8-10 hours) but once its done I'm serviced for the the full year other than checking fluid levels. If you google 'FORM 461' you will find several PDF copies are available. Excellent reference and provides a complete once over.
  4. One tip for the older valve type fuel pumps is to use a fuel proof non hardening sealant in the valve seat to prevent drain back. The theory is that if the fuel tank creates a vacuum and the fuel cap does not vent it, the fuel in the line will not be siphoned back. Not sure if I believe it. I know the fuel in the carb, after a few days can evaporate, but a properly working pump and sealed lines should not take more than a few seconds of cranking to get fuel from the filter/tank to the carb.
  5. No fuel in the fuel bowl is still not a reason for slow cranking. You should, on a charged battery, be able to crank for at least 10 seconds before noticing any slow down, which is more then enough revolutions to prime the fuel pump and get petrol to the carb. I believe the TMs have the actual RPMs that the motor should turn over when using the starter.. but off the top of my head I cannot recall it. Ground points affect all MVs. My 24VDC M35A2 still had ground issues (fuel pump, turn signals) and that had 2 12VDC 1000CCA batteries in series... bad grounding is bad grounding at any voltage.
  6. I disagree. The only 'slow starters' are the ones that are not maintained. My motor used to turn over very slowly as most people experience, but after cleaning things up it starts on the first revolution and that takes about 1 second. Like the 'leaning spring' syndrome slow starting in based more in myth an poor maintenance that actual deign and ability of the system.
  7. You have an electrical issue. The motor *could* be out of time, or the distributor 180deg out, but I am starting ont he premise that the motor was running, you just experienced slow starting. My jeep starts wonderfully on 6v and an original WWII starter. Go to the store get a tube of dielectric grease. A small tube will suffice, also you will need a commutator stone. DO NOT USE SAND PAPER. Also a small wire brush (toothbrush sized is best). Starting at the copper lug on the starter, take off the nut and wire, clean the copper lug and end of wire with brush. Make it shine! Before assembly dab on the dielectric to the copper lug and make sure you use a NEW star washers. Work your way back doing the exact same thing at the foot switch then battery terminal. Then go from the ground pole on the battery, to the ground strap, to the grand strap to frame bolt. Try starting again. If it doesn't start, or is very slow take off the starter, remove the brush cover and take out 1 brush from the holder, use the commutator stone to make the commutator shine. Inspect the brush (should be at about 2cm long and flat at the tip that rides on the commutator and commutator proper. If either has deep gouges or worn irregularly they need to be fixed/ or replaced. That's all there is to it. Your 6 volts needs a very low resistance and corrosion/dirt/grease on the contact points is the number one reason for slow starting. Now if your motor didn't start freely BEFORE the new starter then its something else. You might need a new foot switch, but try this first... 90% of the time cleaning the grounds and polishing the commutator solves the issue.
  8. The small hole might let some gas out... but the majority will go up and out the stack. Its a very common modification. You only need a small hole. Considering the amount of smoke a normal M35 can make at startup/idle no one will notice a tiny puff under the wheel arch.
  9. Please see AR 850-5 Feb, 1945. Registration numbers shall be WHITE as supplied by the manufacturers. While these look repainted, if these are 45 UT's then they would have had white registration numbers from the factory.
  10. http://www.tm9-801.com/hydrovacid/index.htm Upper left: External Valve Vacuum Brake Booster (Pusher). Of all the G numbered vehicles I had a list of, G-X62 is a heavy truck or armor of sort sort G062 Truck, heavy machine shop [*]G162 [*]M5 Tractor, high speed, International Harvester [*]M5A1 G262 M47 Patton G562 semitrailer, 3½-Ton, Combination Stake and Platform, Checker model C-4
  11. If you install a new j-pipe (that's whats its called) drill a small (couple of 32's of an inch) hole at the lowest point to let the water out. Other popular remedies are: self closing stack cap, switching to a stainless steel j-pipe, tin can at the top when not driving it and driving it more And the diameter of the tube is for the j-pipe is the same as every other tube in the exhaust stack... after the turbo the tube diameter does not vary.
  12. I'm not a purest. I have many repro parts on my MVs.. they have to be there... Ford/Chevy/GMC isn't making them anymore. Is the episode online to view? There is a reason why shows like 'Monster Garage', Junkyard Wars, et al were popular... they show craftsmen making things, as opposed to googling parts and placing an order. 22 minutes of looking at a jeep vendor web site is just not good t.v. I don't mean to disparage the effort, or the use of repro parts. But I'm sure there is a huge market for people who would watch a man turn a 4x8 sheet of steel into a jeep fender than the typical 'open a crate and bolt one on' scenario of most t.v. shows. Go to any large m.v. site and the threads with the most views are generally the one that show something being done. Even here there was a gent scratch building a Sdkfz 222. That man deserves a t.v. show of his own. I'll leave with this last, final though. In all the world, the number of people who can design a cell phone could fit into a room. A rather small room. And they are unknown. Yet just about every person in the civilized world has a cell phone. Who would make a more interesting dinner guest? The rare as a hens tooth engineer or average joe that can't figure out the ring tones? Its good that another jeep is on the road.
  13. You'd have to ask the seller.. the link is in a previous post. I would assume that shipping to the UK would be more than having a local welder cut yours open and weld back up. If you do have rust come out of it you need to worry about thin metal or rust being held on by paint. POR-15 can only do so much.... having 80 liters of petrol spill out of a newly found rust hole would be expensive... and slightly flammable.
  14. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-WW2-International-M5H6-SWB-6X6-GMC-CCKW-G508-SWB-Fuel-Tank-Assy-Complete-/160912669860?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2577247ca4 Here it is now! Down to $250!
  15. When you drained it the first time was there any debris/rust that came out? If you flush with clean water and filter what comes out through a t-shirt if there are no chunks or rust then simply but a chemical coating system for fuel tanks and that should be enough. POR-15 is one product that gets high praise, but I have not used it. If there are large chunks of rust or debris in the tanks the baffles can make it hard to remove. Then its just time to get creative... a magnet on a string, a set of grippers etc. I have cut a LWB fuel tank open with a cutting wheel to remove beer bottles (approx 15cm sq), then make a patch with flanges on it to weld back in place (on the bottom, out of sight) and using a MIG welder the warpage is minimal. Following up with an acetylene torch to shrink the metal tight. Grind, sand, paint. You'd never know I have a big old hole in it. I do recall a place in Europe that had 352 fuel tanks pictured still in the wooden crates. Not sure the cost but on ebay in the US one shows up every so often.. they wanted about $350 for it last time it showed up... didn't sell.
  16. There really isn't a lot of grease in a split axle steering knuckle.... so it might have been over filled. Plus grease really doesn't flow... typically the inner axle shaft seal fails and passes oil and that mixes with grease and seeps out. The odd thing is that its both sides..
  17. Whatever was a handy. There was no 'official' mount... just creative soldiers.
  18. A photo would be more helpful... but here are some things to check: Is it grease or oil? That will be the first indication of where to look next. If you're not sure then check the level of the differential oil (let the truck sit min. 30 minutes to ensure all the lube oil has run off the gears). The steering knuckle grease level is checked depending on what type of axle you have: Split: level plug is on the LOWER side of the steering knuckle - grease should be even with level plug. Banjo: level plus is on the UPPER side of the steering knuckle - grease should be visible. Its odd that you would rip up the felt seal on both knuckles at the same time. It sounds more like the vent plug may be clogged, and you shot oil past the seals. But if the truck sat for a while the seals could have dried out, then rapidly wear due to being brittle/dry. By design grease should seep out and keep the seals wet. You may need a copy of TM9-1801 (there a quite a few digital copies available) to do a proper rebuild.
  19. Its always good to see a steel soldier back on the road. But I think t.v. is really distorting the effort that people put into restorations (from hand made panels to MD-Juan tubs). I spent 3 hours today reclaiming clutch head screws from a parts cab. That's some crappy t.v., but an essential part of restoration. I
  20. So it was just about buying a repro tub and painting? I'm glad that the gent got his jeep back... but dismayed that 'restorations' are little more than MD-Juan bolt on tubs. I'd sit all day in front of the t.v. watching a craftsman bending sheet metal into panels (well, not really, I have things to do).
  21. You can save a ton of money, and even be historically correct by using regular 'street' or civilian style tires (After about mid 43 units not in a Theater of Operations were forbidden to have new tires, they got seconds and retreads. All new production went to combat/support units). NDTs are horrible on wet pavement and they are not so great on dry pavement either. Some of the later style NATO tires have a pretty aggressive tread pattern that looks good, but if you want 'the look' its $300+ USD per tire. If your flaps are good you can reuse them... unless they are dry rotted they don't wear out.
  22. CCKW->M135->M211->M35A1->M35A2 There was a lot of tinkering between the two. I think the M211 and M135 were unpopular due to the auto trans and transfer cases not really working well. If you read up on the M35 in Vietnam for a while they were notoriously unreliable trucks. Head gaskets, cylinders blowing out... all sorts or engine problems due to the multifuel design. The M35 was the first tactical 2.5 ton truck to get a diesel... up till then they were all gasoline engines. Having owned and driven both I can say the M35A2 was a small step ahead of the CCKW, and even a less step forward from the other M series 2.5 ton trucks. They had the same speeds, the same capacity, the same fuel load.. the M35 is much larger than the CCKW, if you think the GMC 270 is a big motor seeing that HUGE Continental 6 cylinder diesel on a stand is easily twice the size.... hits a freaking HUGE motor.
  23. Eriks Military Surplus is one of the FEW, very FEW places that has the proper electrical connectors at a reasonable price.. the kit with 10 each male/female is a must have... you will run into electrical issues (bad grounds mostly) but also bad connectors. Don't buy bulbs from a vendor... they are much to high. Any online lighting place will have the proper 24V bulbs for the directional and brakes. I think they are only rated for 100hrs. I bought in packs of 12 for less then $0.50 each. Again, steelsoldiers.com is where you want to be
  24. A visit to http://www.steelsoldiers.com will get you tons of good advice.. they are the M35 guru's. The axle vent cap is a continual problem, but also the cork seal needed to seal the outer spindle keyway is usually missing or not sealing properly. Most will use RTV and not the cork. New seals are $60+ and kinda hard to find... but luckily most seals never really fail, just leak. Clean, inspect, reinstall. Unless you plan to go fording, most people will use a pipe nipple and a cap and just drill a hole in it to vent. You can pack with felt, but not needed. Don't do anything to the truck till you change the fuel filters and look into the fuel tank for sludge. Great truck.. lots of fun... but slow and loud. Hope there are not a lot of hills in your area. One thing M35A2's don't do well is go up hills.
  25. Easiest way to tell if you have an M35A2C bed (drop side) is to look for the latches in the corners just under the top rail of the stake sides. No latches, or if they look 'home made' then its not original. I liked my M35.. but really way to much maintenance to be useful. Steering boots constantly ripping, axle seals constantly leaking (most brake systems are good, but the axle seals leak.. looks like a leaking brake cylinder by its not) and NDTs are horrible tires. Woefully under powered (a 5 ton is really needed if you want to haul) and noisy/slow. Its a great toy. Just a money pit.
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