deadline

My costs in the US were $180 for a crankshaft magnaflux then grind/polish in 2012. Don't pay for a balance unless you are doing the whole engine. They should check for straightness for free. Don't even consider NOS bearings.. get new production. CJ dealers have all the sizes down to the wear limit. IIRC Mains were $100 and rods were $80. New rear main and front seals are like $30 total. Plastigauge is $20 and assembly lube is like $10. Any name brand bearing will do.. there is nothing special about an L head engine. Don't buy anything until the shop tells you what the crank was ground to.

The easiest thing to do first is drop the oil pan and take off the main bearing caps and look at them. If they were run dry they should be scored, and if you spun a bearing your motor is most likely done for. If the visual inspection doesn't show any major damage to the journals, plastigauge the main bearing wear (not sure what it may be called across the pond). The rule of thumb is that if you can 'feel' the scratch with your fingernail it needs to be ground. If you're over max (3 thou is usually the limit) then you are not going to see oil pressure any time soon, and new bearings are called for. Do the same for the rod bearings... but I think the jeeps wear limit is 2 or 2.5 thou.. look in the book. The only other place you can lose oil pressure is the camshaft bearings... but those you simply replace. If you need to take the motor out for a crankshaft regrind you might as well replace the camshaft bearings, too.

I've gotten as far as I can in my quest to learn about the Harrison Heater used in the CCKW as per manual YT-4336. Basically I am trying to deduce the pre-war, war time and post war heater body and the differences (well, I really on care about the wartime one, but any info would help). Anyone have a photo, TM, or even a picture of the Harrison Heater used in a WWII truck? Thanks!

I remember a post, a while back, about a CCKW assembly area being filmed. I believe it was a Pathé, but I cannot find the clip and I have used the search function here to no avail. Its not the one on youtube (the one titled 148MVA Ordnance). Any help locating it would be appreciated.

Going by the SNL for the G506 I posted is seems there is a very wide selection of tires authorized for (at least) the G506. The CCKW SNL does not give such a list for the G508. SNL-G-508 in mute on any tire information. Since the rims/axles are identical, one could assume that you could go down to 6.5x20 6ply or up to 8.25x20 (but only as a single tire on the rears).. but since a CCKW empty is more than a loaded Chevy I would bump up the pressure 2-5PSI to account for the extra weight. We do know that 9.5x20s will work as its done quite often... although quite noticeable and you will incur some steer tire running on the frame. Asked to leave? For posting relevant information? Seems that only 2-3 people may have misunderstood what my posts have said. Don't clog up the forum, but PM me as to why.

If I may clarify me 'authenticity' comment... as a reenactor the term 'authentic' is the bane of any conversation. Authentic as is 'factory issued'? Authentic as is 'field modified'? Authentic as is 'here's a photo of it, with no context'? That's why I said that 'authentic' needs to be specific. The 'authentic' or factory supplied tire for a CCKW is an NDT. I have not seen the term 'bar tread' in any information I have. It is also, 'authentic' to have a mix of NDT an other types of tires. The TMs DO address this, explicitly. As I have posted, I cannot even find a part number for a tire. Granted while at work I don't have my entire digital collection at my fingertips... but is there an FSN or GM part number for the NDT tire? The SNLs don't seem to have one. I find this little bit on minutia very interesting. Just about every part on the CCKW is cataloged... except the tires! I know some may see this as beating a dead horse and then pulverizing the bones into dust, then spreading the dust to the four winds. I find it very interesting to the point of humorous.

What many may see as an argument is really, truly nothing more than a discussion. A discussion where two, or several people debate a topic is what the hobby needs. And discussing the the gray areas is the only way to turn them from gray to black and white. If I knew the concrete, provable answer to tires I would post it and we would all agree. I think I have done that. But as in any discussion others will offer their opinions/facts and the debate will continue. How is that a bad thing? How is that negative? Why is it seen as unwelcome? If the open discussion of things like the costs of a CCKW, the type of tires on a CCKW, or the brand of fire extinguishers used on CCKWs/Chevys and other topics is not welcome then it is a sad day. I enjoy conversing with many people here, and I have learned a lot. The failing point generally is that one party sees the questioning of their information as an attack. Nothing is farther from the truth. I think my captions for the photos with tires are humorous, not hateful or an attack, but highlighting my point of view. It really doesn't take me long to gather photos or look up information to post. I have a fairly good memory and know how to use computers quite well. So its nothing for me to grab several sources, edit, and post. Windows 7 has a great 'Snip it' tool that makes copying information super quick and easy. As for the photo blog.. I offered valid constructive advice. Feel free to ignore it. But there is a difference between ordinary and extraordinary. I would like to think that people would strive for the latter than the former. Sometimes an outside opinion is what is needed to clarify the difference. I welcome the advise just given to me... I will give it consideration and thought. I may not make the huge change that some may expect, but it will roll it around in my noggin for a bit.

Going through TM10-1562 it does not even mention the tire proper. Nothing. This is what the 44 TM9 has to say about tires: No 'must use NDT/NDCC ONLY'. Other than an RECOMMENDATION to use the same type, and that they should be with in 1/4in in diameter.... nothing. So, where is it written that the only acceptable use for an AUTHENTIC CCKW's TIRES are NDTs or NDCCs?

I *REALLY* don't want to get into an 'authenticity' debate because unless you specifically define what that term means, and I mean really get into the specifics we'll just go round and round posting photos that prove both our points. Actually, looking throught the G506 TM9-805, SNL-G506 and TM9-1765A NONE OF THEM SPECIFICITY A TYPE OF TIRE. Lots of 'acceptable' substitutes and nary a mention of NDT/NDCC GIs did did whatever they had to to keep the trucks on the road. So running with missing tires on the rear, civvy tires, you name it, they did it. Its a fake ACKWX! Send it back to GMC! How unauthentic can you get? Where are the NDTs??? A fake pole boring Chevy! Ghaaa!!!! What? Is that a civvy tire next to an NDCC? No no no that cannot happen. How un-AUTHENTIC of those GIs.

I'm just trying to give some constructive advice. I've looked over your blog and and yes, there are lots of photos. But if I may be honest, other than having different registration numbers and various combinations of Musette bags and jerry cans there is not much information in the photos as presented. I don't have any clever analogy to give that could clearly state what I am trying to say, and I know that 99.9999% of the time most people simply shoot for 'acceptable' rather than really go for 'exceptional'. There is so much more information that you could be collecting, with a reasonable amount of effort that would create much more useable point of reference. Things like: Frame serial numbers DoD's or any data plate information. Is the registration number original (or believed to be) Maybe email the site for contact information and try and talk to the owner? Maybe get a small bit of history on the truck (last service unit. last country to have it. Any unseen mods) I like looking at CCKW just as much as the next guy... and sharing your blog is more effort that most people will ever put into CCKWs. Its a good start, it really is. As for any 'definitive guide' to CCKWs I am not the keeper of all things CCKW. I never claimed to be (unlike some others claim to be on other forums).

I would concentrate on images other than the 4 corners and the trinkets they hang off the body. Most owners are shy to open the bonnet because the motor is generally the last thing to be restored (if ever).. other than starting and running. I hope Mr. Doyle doesn't turn your work it into another horrific CCKW book.

In the US a 9x20 is less than $100 for a used tire with 80%+ tread left. I was paying about $80 at the MV shows. 'Authentic'.. I hate that word. Authenticity can be little more than a snapshot in time. Its COMPLETELY AUTHENTIC to put civy tires on a CCKW. As I noted NDTs were strictly rationed to 'most needed' units. Line haul trucks would get whatever was round, held air, and fit the rim. The market for 7.5x20's is very small. I know of only ONE manufacturer... Specialty Tires of America http://www.stausaonline.com/ Everyone else is a reseller due to the DOT licensing to make tires in the US. Is you want 'the look' (or factory correct) you need NDTs. But it is AUTHENTIC to run anything. There are some very nice civy tires with aggressive treads that look good. But at over $2500 to re-shoe a truck for tires that will last less than 5-7000 miles (due to the steer tires wearing out quickly) having a 'close second' is a wise choice.

I believe there was a wartime edict that unless a truck was assigned to a tactical unit NDTs were not the first issue for spares. In the US replacement tires were at the best retreads and commonly seconds off the manufacturer line. NTDs are a superb in mud. I was out today in my jeep and went somewhere that dead ended halfway down the side of a mountain (it was a power line access trail). Reduced air pressure to about 15 PSI, put the GPW in 4x4 low and climbed out easy peasy. The only other tracks were the impressions in the mud left by some sort of tracked vehicle. No way any other tire would have gotten me out.

I don't own a closed cab CCKW but there was discussion that the proper material for early trucks was brown Naugahyde. Not sure if this was ACKWs or the very early 1574 cab trucks. As for larger tires as long are you realize that the tires will rub the frame on tight turns there is no real reason not to use them. Personally I hate NDTs.. they are horrible in rain and snow, you literally use less than 30% of the tire width and they wear much faster than 'civvy tires'. Other than 'the look' there is no real reason to use them. LOTS of CCKWs in photos are on full tread civvy tires. Get a 7.5x20 with an agressive mud/snow pattern and the truck looks just as nice (no knobbies!)

You own half an M35. Value of a correct all steel CCKW bed.. $2500. Value of an M35 bed? $500 Obligatory 'nice truck'.

I agree that 99% of the people will not care if the fire extinguisher is there. I am not in that category. I do care as that little bit of minutia is part of the fun of collecting MVs. While I was onboard the USS Pulaski I could draw, name and find in the dark every fire extinguisher, hose, FFE, OBA, a vast majority of the EAB connections and tons of other damage control related items. Most topside sailors didn't care unless they were on a DC party or it was their rate. But being on a sub meant that everyone was on a DC team and had to know.... so I don't think its universal that servicemen don't care... unless it was something they dealt with all the time.

Any kind of research needs to be verified and looked over by others.. otherwise its little more than a statement. Everything collectors need is safely locked up at the GM Historical Archive in Michigan... but to GM management for the last 30 years or so WWII never happened.

The truck is not even worth scrap... as you have the expense of hauling it somewhere, getting rid of the bits that the scrapper won't take (or will charge you for like tires). Knowing the general value of a truck is paramount as anyone can offer to much... I'm sure the gent selling that truck would gladly take £7500 for it. That's not the point, is it? Say for example in a year you abondon the project. If you pay £5000 for a truck you need to sell it for that same amount or suffer a loss. So if you have a good idea of the value, and can make a case for it (mention the going rate to repair/replace the broken parts) then you know that you are not low balling and offering a fair price. In negotiations if you come off with an obscenely low opening bid then the seller will just become irritated and not be open to dealing. Offer a little under a FAIR price and you have room to bargain. And that's the real goal... have facts to justify your offer, cost to repair etc etc etc. If the seller is reasonable and you are a bit lucky you will get a good deal. If you just want to throw money in the air and let the seller pick whatever they want then fine... but now you are starting a restoration with less money because you failed to pay the VALUE of the truck. I honestly though my European friends would understand this more than they do.... I've always understood that negotiating a price is an expected part of a deal.

If you set your goals high, then even if you miss it you are still much better off than having no goal at all. Judging (by the MVPA's standards) is a joke and other than the 1/4 ton reconnaissance truck (aka jeep) I don't think there are any written standards for CCKWs/Chevys. Most 'clubs' don't want the best, they want you to feel good about your effort so you continue to pay dues. I'm sure the answer is out there. Now I just have to find it.

Check the cab interior closely.... I see an extra wiper arm.. that means they may have cut up the headliner. They are a pain to find in metal. I have found places that sell the headliners in fiberglass... so that means lots of finish work. Don't give to much value to a motor 'that runs'. Its probably worn out and ready for an overhaul. Sheet metal isn't expensive. Tires, canvas, brake work, wiring harnesses, and small cab items are the expensive bits.

I have researched it... I even have pictures: http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=927 I did reference the JeepDraw web site... I avoid G503 as the 'signal to noise' ratio is much to high. My question is really to validate what I have found. TMs can be wrong, or list items that were never issued, and rarely do they have a start/stop date other than 'superseded by' I did get a very nice "Fire Gun No 0" for my jeep... I like to try and get the less common items. Pyrenne's are easy to find. The brackets really don't interest me that much... I know there are two types depending on the top of the fire extinguisher... either centered of offset to the rear. There may be others based on number of bands, and the cup at the bottom... I figure that if I buy a fire extinguisher with the mount it should be close enough to mount in a vehicle.

In about a month one of the largest antique shows on the east coast will be 30 minutes away. I think it will be an excellent chance to pick up a couple brass fire extinguishers. So the problem becomes: Whats the proper fire extinguisher for a G506 and G508 truck? Anyone have any ideas?

I don't know much about the DUKW, but looking at the photo, the coil is connected to the shield via a condenser. Is this just a convenient ground or was the shield more RF shield than waterproof container? Just wondering.

My understanding was that the metal shields were a major pain. They were thin tin sheets and broke/bent easily. While they do look kinda cool, there most likely is some truth to the previous statements... precious few have survived.

I doubt the M31C mount could take the beating of twin 50's for long on a jeep. The dash mount definitely would rip out. The MGs along would be close to 200lbs... not counting whatever you had to weld up to support them. Feeding them from left/right is not an issue.. they change over easily enough, but ejecting belts and links would be a bit problematic. Also the sheer weight of BMG ammo would quickly add up. You can fit 250 rounds into a .30 cal can... but a 50BMG can only holds 100 rounds linked.