deadline

I can think of one person in the states that might have one. He's in California. PM me for his email address.

A steel mesh glass protector was installed over the rear cab glass. I'm not sure if the rubber insert for the rear glass is available.. or if its just a flat rubber strip like used on a jeep.

My 1943 is also a -1 (chassis / cab only). Any idea why there would be -1's? My guess is that they would be turned into a shop van (ST-5/ST-6) as there was no frame 'code' for them (I could be wrong). I guess I could leave it as 'bobtail' (well, whatever you call a truck with nothing on the frame). But I feel I would get tired of explaining why its like that.

For the longest time I believed that filters were white, but learned they were gray. Two days before going to press I found (and was also sent) color pictures from a Gent that had an original oil filter, with the original decals still in visible. The body was gray and and filter decal was yellow/black (I had believed they were black/white). http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=613 That link has pics to originals that I based the final colors off of. Color film was not rare in the 40's. I'm sure GM has boxes full of CCKW production photos... but anyone who has spoken to the folks in the GM Archives will quickly learn what I did.... they simply don't believe that GM was part of WWII. They will not even entertain the possibility of thinking of looking for anything in the 1940-1945 time frame. To GM, the world started in the 50's. You will not get much of anything out of them before that decade. So you are left with B&W film and hoping you stumble across something on the internet... like I did.

I'm sure someone, somewhere has an original, pristine CCKW oil filter. Till we find it and beg for pictures I hope this will do. Many thanks to the many people who have helped get to this point. Ain't she pretty?

Sorry for going a little OT but I must disagree. The early TM10's are fantastic sources of information and guidance. The later TM9s are not that great...unless you get the complete works (and for the CCKW thats about 5-6 different books). And those separate books are so specific that you cannot get the big picture because each book is only geared to that ONE relevant area. Using the TM10's you need 2 books, the maintenance and parts books. For example TM10-1563 20 March 1943 uses 18 pages to describe the entire fuel system to include carb rebuild, governor rebuild, fuel pump rebuild, operation, removal, installation and maintenance. Under the echelon system (or the TM-9 books) you need TM-801 (installation, removal, maint) TM9-1828A (fuel pump rebuild) SNL-G-508 (order parts) TM9-1826C (carb rebuild) I'm not sure where the governor rebuild went maybe (TM9-1802A?) That's why its so hard to 'figure out' whats going on mechanically using later books. Unless you have the complete CCKW encyclopedia you have to fall back on mechanical knowledge... and most people today don't have any idea how to deal with a carb, governor, or the difference between a parts diagram and an assembly diagram. Many of those TMs are avialable for free from http://www.tm9-801.com/techpubs/index.php

I would be most interested to know if the carburetor air cleaner had the decal on the lid. Can you make out a frame number? Were you lucky enough to get all the data plates?

The secret to cast iron welding is proper heat up, weld with the proper filler, stress relieve and cool down. Its quite simple if you have the ovens to do it.

Or maybe they could WRITE A BOOK about these old trucks. You know, written by the manufacturer when they were made? With pictures and troubleshooting charts. Man, that would be SWEET! :laugh:

The spring is not for the primer arm. The spring keeps the arm against the fuel pump eccentric on the cam shaft so it doesn't bounce (think like a valve spring) the spring also forces the arm down, which allows the diaphragm to be pushed up. The TMs don't show the AC fuel pump with a primer arm. The primer arm shaft has a notch cut in it. When the primer arm is 'down' the lever arm actually fits in the notch. When you pull the primer arm up, it rotates the primer arm shaft and edge of the notch raises the lever arm to actuate the diaphragm. What happens is the primer shaft wears a notch in the lever arm.. and that notch catches the primer shaft. Here's a pic of a very lightly worn arm.. you can just see the indent where the primer shaft notch is hitting it. One of my fuel pumps had a notch over 1mm deep.. the primer lever didn't even move the arm it was so worn down... a quick weld and file and good as new. The above part is included in rebuild kits.

I believe an M5 HST and is towed gun show up at the Reading PA WWII weekend. I don't think I have any pics though. I also honestly thought I would get blasted over mentioning that some people see gold where others see rust.... good to learn that I am not alone. What good is letting something rot when a FAIR price is offered. I've had a fair share of sellers tell me that I offered way to low.. and that they can get more if they scrap it. I have yet to have anyone show me a receipt for the $2000+ they said they would get from a scrapper.

The primer arm shouldn't 'stick' in the up position. If it does you need to take off the pump and take it apart. 99% of the time you have worn a notch in the pump link. If you don't have a spare then you can weld the notch in the arm up and file it smooth. This is from TM9-1827A (free download from http://www.tm9-801.com/tm9-1828a/index.php ) Of the three pumps I have rebuilt for the jeep and CCKW all have had significant notches worn into the shaft.

I've heard of a few places like this.. another one is in Nevada IIRC. Has some stuff... way overpriced, gotta buy the whole truck, even if you only need a drive shaft. :nut: They also believe that the longer it sits outside (and rots away) the more valuable it becomes... in a few years the red pile of rust oxide where an MV used to be is worth more than its weight in gold!! :laugh: Just wondering... out of the 40 odd HST there... can you even get ONE working example? It does look like 1-2 were in working condition.. but original? It is cool that he 'saved' it from the crusher. Its kinda odd that it sits there to rot away.

I've seen that footage and it really is a good documentary of the assembly lines used to put TUP shipped CCKWs together. Can anyone colorize it? Or enhance it to clean up some of the haze/blur? I know its 70+ year old film... but its probably the best footage of CCKW assembly we have. Historians at GM think they never participated in WWII... so anything they have will most likely never see the light of day.

Wow that looks very complete.. I can even make out the wiper motors on the windscreen AND the spare tire carrier. Finding a CCKW is not hard, finding a complete one is. Finding one that the owner prices it fairly is the rarest of all.

The original 1936 AR850-5/-10 DID specify white for registration numbers that were manufacturer applied. It was until the late 42 -5 / -10 rewrite that the War Department changed to the BLUE DRAB for reregistration numbers applied by the manufacturer. The only real change to the -5 was in late 43 where the gasoline soluble paint was replaced with enamel paint (IIRC). The 15 Feb 1945 AR850-10 then speificed that registration numbers will now be lusterless white enamel and be applied by the manufacturer. There are some other reasons why a registration number would be white pre 1945: Vehicle repaint. Vehicles assembled overseas via SUP/TUP. There are many dated pictures and videos of depot constructed vehicles with white registration numbers.

The 509th Composite Group was constituted on 9 December 1944, and activated on 17 December 1944, So I stand corrected... not a CCKWX. Maybe all the unit IDs/emblems are gone because of the nature of the work the 509th was tasked with? With all the brainpower at that base I'm sure they had the ability to make whatever devices they needed.

That CCKW may actually be a CCKWX since there are no unit markings or National Symbols on any vehicle... not knowing the date of the photo it could be pre-1942. I have not read much about wrecker-equipped CCKWs, other than being outfitted with a No 7 set, which was light duty. Could this be a local modification?

Whats more amazing are the kids in the photos. Creases in their trousers, and they are actually pulled up, and holly smokes... they appear to have JOBS! You may not find that car on the city streets... but you WILL NOT find kids like on city streets

Jeepdraw states that hood registration numbers for Willys MB (G503) were WHITE starting 'mid' 1945 2" High Blue Drab Numbers and letters until Mid 1945. White was used in the last contract http://jeepdraw.com/PART_COLOURS.htm

NAPA part number 1100 WIX part number 51100 Prices in the US are about $10-13 USD each, $5-7 USD each if you buy a case.

Does 'silly' have a much more nefarious meaning in Europe? I live in West Germany for 6 years.. but never became fluent in a foreign language. I'm an ex-bubble head... I think I can make a quiet getaway. HA! Get it? 'Silent Service'! Thank you! I'll be here all week. Don't forget to tip your waitress.

The CCKW and jeep have a damper on the exhaust manifold, but then turn around and install an insulator between the intake and carb (or in the case of a CCKW, the governor). So I don't know how much heat makes it up to the carb (its a LONG way up to the venturi on a 28AV11). I have to replace the cardboard about once a week this year on the front of the M35a2. Its just not been that wet a winter. I have some 1/4in plywood set aside for the wet days. But I can get all the free cardboard I can use from local stores. GIs in WWII would use cardboard ration boxes. Silly GI's.

Ask any pilot about it. Fuel injection solved a ton of problems, but anytime you put a venturi and water together there is the possibility of carb ice. Make sure you use plenty of carboard and you won't have that problem!

I have some extra from the cover I put on my 66 M35a2. Shipping might be the deal breaker. :cheesy: As for the carb icing up, has nothing to do with the engine temp. Any pilot or A&P will tell you even WITH a hot engine a carb can ice. Even if you do put the t-stat in (and even a working t-stat will still allow coolant to get to the radiator via the vent holes, not a lot, but some) the exhaust manifold damper needs to be set to full heat. Jeeps are lucky, they have an automatic damper set up. CCKWs ya gotta go do it manually. Then undo it in the spring. If that's a current pic of your t-stat housing you should run some descaler and flush the system. Scale is an effective insulator and the debris can clog the passages/radiator tubes. Seems like every time you drive you have some wacky cooling system issue. Seems like you should just bit the bullet (or whatever they bite in the UK ) and get it up to snuff.