deadline

That is a superb video. The clarity is amazing. The only other assembly video I have found is the one from youtube and its been digitized poorly. The money shot is at 2:00 in the preview clip. To quote Mal from Firefly 'SHINY!' Can't tell color for squat, but the gloss is there. Also if you look at the 2:00 frame from the stills gallery you can see that the valve cover decals are located at the rear of the cover. I think its more common to see the decals up by the front/fan end, but I have seen a few with the decals at the rear. And those are officially know as TUPs (Two Unit Packs). Two complete trucks in 3 crates 1 crate: frame, wheels etc 2 crate: cabs, fuel tank, bits 3 cargo beds Whats also fantastic is that in the section where they show the cabs being wired, you can actually read many of the notes on the firewall. One of my future projects will be to figure out what they wrote and the decals on the windshield from the factory. That doesn't sound to difficult. Great find!

There is one bolt that holds the dist clamp to the block and another than squeezes the camp around the dist body. It is possible that the clamp part around the dist body has stretched and therefore the looped ends are touching, not supplying any clamping force, or a very small amount. Look at the bolt that squeezes the camp and there should be at least 1/8th inch between the two loops. If they ARE touching, the you can buy a new dist clamp or simply cut/grind a space between the loops and reinstall. You could also have worn bushings in the dist that allow for to much slop and that affects the points and timing. Dist rebuild kits are cheap, and it may be worth it to take out the dist and replace all the wear parts.

There is a No. 7 for sale and I am tempted to buy it. It looks proper and complete. Does anyone have one? Do you find it useful? Or just a novelty? Thanks in advance.

I would assume a few mm less than the diameter of the hole? I only have pictures of the legs.. I've not see an MG mount on an open cab truck. If anyone does have pics... please post!

I doubt that the same paint is available in Europe. Its a high VOC acrylic enamel, evil in the eyes of ROHS. I don't know if taking my painted cover to the local auto paint shop for color match will work.... but its free so I'll give it a try. I'm sure there is a GM color code chart from the 30-40's that has this exact mix.... but don't look in an Army TM for it... it ain't there.

Yeah, its a done deal. Here is a SIGNAL CORPS photo from the National Archive showing the bell housing color. It matches my green paint (when converted to B&W). The paint color I posted at the beginning is the correct paint.

I spent the past weekend going over everything I can to make a decision. The GMC enamel olive green in the first picture is THE CORRECT GMC CCKW 270 ENGINE PAINT COLOR. I base this primarily on 4 pieces of information: First, the 'Sunderlin Articles' published by the MVPA in the late 80s early 90's. Specifically Part III on page 16 of the 49th issue of Army Motors: This is on page 42 of the GMC assembly manual tossed in the box. NOTE THE SIGNIFICANT REFLECTION OF THE OIL FILTER LID ON THE VALVE COVER!!! This reflection is the result of an enamel, high temp paint. Every 40's era GM/GMC restoration shop DOES sell the exact same paint color, the color I used. Back in 2006 when most of the CCKW web site popped up, this question was a hot topic, and I have basically rediscovered the same information (or, more properly, verified it). Even the most Supreme CCKW owner Joel Gopan has stated that GMC Wet Olive is the correct color. If anyone has information that they believe debunks this, please post. Here are more detailed threads regarding my findings and photos: http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=763 http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=782

Missing a valve or two? Have you tried cardboard? :laugh:

Most analog 12V multi test sets will work fine with 6V. Things like 12V strobe lights, RPM/Dwell/volt meter combos work fine on 6v. 6V is completely CAPABLE of starting a big 270. But you have to tend to it. 12V buys you a lot of 'sloppyness' in the system. You don't need super clean grounds, you don't need super thick cables. Most of the slow starting issues are simply (sorry guys, but its truth time) poor maintenance. Do you have commutator stones to clean the commutators? What about a scale to check the brush tension? Is the commutator out of round? When have you last added a few drops to the oil port on the rear starter housing? Or remove it to oil the Outboard bearing (hint: 1000 and 6000 miles, respectively but I would do it every month or two... a sitting bearing can drain out the oil). Those are everyday questions for a mechanic when working on antique cars. There are no OBDC codes, and you have to rely on TMs and common sense (and know a mechanic or three... two will never agree so you'll need a tie breaker). Spend the time to go over the starting circuit. Repair/replace what is out of spec and you'll be starting on the 1st or 2nd revolution.

The TMs don't specify when to repaint. It does reference a TM, and I have located and ordered a copy (should be here in 3-4 days). The TM specifies that the engine should be cleaned with dry cleaning solvent, which would remove paint. So there are at least 3 times them the paint would be subjected to removal: Disassembly (first cleaning) After magnafluxing (remove iron used for crack detection) After machining, before final assembly One would also assume that the engine would be repainted as a general preservative. But, would they really take off sub-assemblies (genny, starter, dist, etc etc) and repaint it? The picture of an uncrated motor clearly shows that the accessories are still the proper colors... decals in place. I have not seen a photo (other than post war NATO) of a truck with a solid, single color (incl. accessories).

There were THREE exhaust valve settings. Originally it was .012 for intake and exhaust. It was increased to .016 for 'early camshafts' and .020 for 'late camshafts'. How can you tell if you have an early or late cam? Here is the TM goodness:

Vaseline is a poor choice. Its dropping point is 40-60C. That means it will 'melt away' on a warm day with the engine running. It also has very poor adhesion. Vaseline Grade: Pharmaceutical Grade. Dropping Point: 42-60℃ Dielectric grease: Drop Point (ASTM): Temp. Range: -70.0 °F [Min], 400.0 °F [Max] You only need a drop of Dielectric grease so a small tube goes a LLOONNNGGGGG way. A health starter only pulls 65 amps no-load at 6 volts, 6000RPM. Any electrical motor shop should be able to test that. Obligatory TM citation.

The sides of a wood body can easily be made taller as in the picture. just add a few more planks to the side (tongue and grove) and add new, longer vertical supports. The actual stake pockets are most likely at the top of the longer supports so the bows fit in them. Even easier: remove the troop seats and bolt planks to extended bow uprights. Would be an easy field mod. There is a picture of another CCKW with this mod in the Tankograd book, p43 top.

I'm starting to question exactly WHEN the factory paint comes off and the OD goes on. But then there's this: They don't seem to be OD.

Be very cautious.. as I stated few commercial oil filters stock the proper can gaskets. If you are careful you can reuse the ones that are installed... but at some point you'll have to dig them out and replace them. Many other vehicles use the filters... you may find them cheaper by looking them up via the WIX number and google them. That's $24 per filter. WOW. $8 all day long here in the US.

I found a picture in a TUP assembly manual that actually points me back to this color. I don't have time to scan it in but its a black and white (dithered, not grayscale) photo that shows the side of an early engine. YOU CAN SEE THE REFLECTION OF THE GRAY OIL FILTER ON THE VALVE COVER! I don't know what to make of it. Its CLEARLY a reflection, and not part of the printing of the manual. Several people have been saving the green is like what is used on WWII US Army ammo cans (most notably 'he who shall not be named') but I have plenty of ammo cans (with dated repack slips still in them) that are NOT semi gloss. Why would ammo cans have *any* gloss? Semi or other? So Jerry knows where you are hiding??? I'll scan in the picture and you'll clearly see it... but its to late now to mess with it.

Dielectric grease on all contacts. Better conductivity and stops corrosion. Take starter to starter shop and have them put it on the growler and test the armature. Have the bushings/bearings been looked at? If the wear is bad enough the armature could be rubbing the field coils, of the shaft my bind. The starter gear SHOULD be getting 100% mesh.. no less than 50%. You can check tooth wear or use leaded paint to see the tooth pattern. More contact is better! A simple test: Take out your spark plugs and test the starter. If it spins the motor faster then you LIKELY have an electrical issue. If the if spins the motor the same slow speed you LIKELY have a mechanical issue. For a starter motor you don't use cardboard.. that is crazy. For starter motors you use butchers paper. I'm surprised I had to post that. :laugh:

The last thing you want to do is take an ebay description as correct I don't think most people know there WERE gas M35s (A1's), then A1s that WERE converted to A2s.

From the jeepdraw web site the ford GPW (jeep) engines were gray (and yes, people fight over what gray is gray) and the Williys MBs engines were OD.. same as the jeep. I am pretty sure that the green I painted is not it. Its not green enough... to much lime color.

Gray was, as far as I can tell, never a 'factory' engine color. The Navy could have repainted its vehicles (as it did with jeeps) but as far as I know CCKWs were OD from the start (the very, very first ACKW's might have been a different color as they were lend leased and none made it to US service). If you have anything that might shed light onto the engine color I would be most interested in reading it.

REO may be for M35A1 (ie gas) engines. Most diesels are made by Kaiser-Jeep. Also that auction does not list a filter part number. Some oil filters supply the wrong housing gaskets for the cans, and must be bought separately. Here's a case of WIX 51133 (oil filters) for $70 US and (for me) its $20 UPS shipping. Might be better to get a case from the US that pay 30 GPB for two!

From GMC the engines were this 'wet olive', with the gray oil filters and black for most accessories. After a depot rebuild the engines were painted OD (the darker color, I believe Army Jeep Parts sells it as 33070 paint, the oil filter would most likely be the standard issue black). If you look at the Tankograd CCKW book, page 21 they do a picture of what APPEARS to be a crate engine, with a gray oil filter. It appears to be a proper crate motor (SNL-G-508 page 54 note details what a engine is supplied with, and what is not). Here is the valve cover I painted convered to B&W (more correctly, gray scale) Besides the obvious gloss (its an acrylic enamel paint) If you look at the Tankograd photo and compare the engine bellhousing to the CCKW behind it it does look like the engine is a lighter shade. I'm not sure its the same COLOR as I have...

CCKW owners have debated over the true color of the CCKW's from the factory paint color. Some have called it 'wet olive' yet when asked, they provide no further information... like they read it from a web site and that's all they knew. Well, there are actually PLENTY of sources for FACTORY CORRECT 1930's-40's-50's-60's GM Olive paint for 6 cylinder engines. I bought some and painted up a test valve cover. This is what it look like. My jeep is painted in 319 WWII Lusterless paint (some call it an early war OD). It is olive-y. Anyone have any opinions if its accurate? Most of the forums that I asked about the paint have said that YES, that's the right color for a 40's era GM/Chevy/GMC engine. I have added more pictures and photos of the complete process http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=763

You don't list your location, but the filters are common here in the US. NAPA can get you them in a day if you order by the NAPA Gold or WIX filter numbers: OIL Filters: Napa FIL 1133 WIX 51133 Primary Fuel: Napa FIL 3511 WIX 53511 Secondary Fuel (2x): Napa FIL 3540 WIX 53540 I don't know of any place that stocks them. They are common, but typically not 'on the shelf' items. Buy in bulk.. you will be changing them often (fuel, anyways) if you run WMO or BioDiesel. Oil use any API Diesel Rated oil. 15W40 is all you need. Rotella dino oil or Delvac diesel oil is good and had lots of ZDDP (zinc) that older engines need.

"There used to be 1,400-1,500 zinc ppm in [passenger-car] motor oils, about where [shell] Rotella [diesel-truck] oil is now." 'Zinc accumulation mainly affects oxygen sensors and catalytic converters, which are very sensitive to the ash that may accumulate on them." Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0702_pitstop_zinc_oil_additive/#ixzz1sq2uZ6Ss Sorry to get all Bill-Ney-the-Science-Guy on everyone... but there be myths that need busting! Mobil says: ". For products that meet the new ILSAC GF-5 specification the phosphorus levels for the oil must be less than 800 ppm phosphorus. The ILSAC level for phosphorus has been reduced to protect the catalytic converter and other emission protection equipment. The engine manufacturers are confident that this level of phosphorus will protect both new and older engines" http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Zinc_Motor_Oils.aspx So a car oil has roughly HALF AS MUCH of that good zinc/phosphorus we need. That's why its important to look for that CF, CG-4 or CH-4 spec on the label.