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Shell Rotella or Mobile Delvac brand 15-40 or straight 30 weight is probably the best choice. Its a heavy duty diesel oil. You REALLY want an API CF, CG-4 or CH-4 spec oil... or the European equivalent. The reason is that most 'S' API rated oils SJ, SL, SM have virtually eliminated the ZINC flat tappet valve lifters need for lubrication. Since passenger cars have bits that can be damaged by zinc in the exhaust (O2 sensors and Catalytic converts) API 'S' (passenger car/gasoline engines) have been much quicker to remove zinc than the diesel oils. You can use API 'S' rated oils but I would recommend a zinc additive (google zinc oil additive) and it generally abbreviated ZDDP. A bottle can be $10-15... so its much cheaper to use diesel engine oils. GMC 270's are tough motors, but they most likely are going to be pretty worn.... and 270 parts ain't cheap. And run GL-5. And don't forget the cardboard!

GL-4 has stayed around longer in Europe than in the US. It is available in the US, but most likely you will find GL-5/MT-1. The main issue is how the syncho gears work. Not sure if you know so a brief overview: The brass synchro keeps the input/output shafts spinning at relatively the same speed by friction. The tranny lube provides a protective buffer but still allows enough friction to occur to keep both shafts spinning... that's what allows you change gears without double clutching or grinding. Syncho's are wear components and will wear out. They are not needed to operate the transmission, but they do make shifting much easier. GL-5 includes a LOT of sulfur. Like zinc (in engine oil) it is a friction reducer. WAY BACK when GL-5 first came out there was an issue with the sulfur turning into an acid and eating yellow metal (well, actually the copper which brass is made of) and when they looked into it the culprit was the sulfur. BUT two things have to happen before the sulfur turns into an acid. You need water (a little) and heat. A lot. The magic number for the heat is 250F. Below that temp the sulfur remains basically inert. It cannot combine with water to make the acid to eat the gears. So, why do you get so many differing manufacturers opinions with respect to GL-5 oil? First, most of the vehicles that POSSIBLY might be affected are older models and they simply don't want to deal with the possible liability of it. Not from the acid issue, but from everyone that has a tranny problem who changes from GL-4 to GL-5 will believe that anything that goes wrong is a manufactures defect and will complain. Another is that they don't want to generate the paperwork to make it an 'approved' change. So basically businesses see no benefit to spending all that money to 'approve' the GL-5 oil. Again, the single, largest, best example of what I can point to and prove my point is the US Army M35a2. These trucks were built in the 1960s and are still in use today. Originally they were specified to run GL-1 oil in the drive-line (diffs and tranny/transfer) If you look back at LO9-2320-209-12-1 (30 April, 1983) it superceedes LO-2320-209-12 (1971) and LO-2320-209-12/1 (1976) and specifies MIL-L-2104 as the lubricating oil. This is the first specification for GL-5. That's 1983. If you follow the long list of specifications and updates it brings you to SAE J2360 as the performance tests for M35a2 lube oil. Here's what J2360 is: "The gear lubricants covered by this standard exceed American Petroleum Institute (API) Service Classification API GL-5 and are intended for hypoid type, automotive gear units, operating under conditions of high-speed/shock load and low-speed/high-torque." http://standards.sae.org/wip/j2360/ That's from the SAE's own web site. So, here is DOCUMENTED PROOF that since 1983 M35a2/3 have have GL-5 in them (and they have synchronized manual transmissions - aka yellow metal) and they are running FINE. My 1966 M35a2.... GL-5 in her since 1983. Runs fine.

The OPTIMA line of 6v glass mat batteries are exceptional power storage devices. They are not traditional lead plate batteries. If the looks bother you there is a fake 40's Ford battery box that they will fit in. [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=class: pdSS]Cold Cranking Amps [/TD] [TD=class: pdT]800 [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: pdSS]Cranking Amps [/TD] [TD=class: pdT]1000[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Make sure you plug that PCV elbow on the top of the valve cover or it may blow oil all over.

There seems to be a MWO for this: (I figure its an actual MWO.. not sure) MWO-G503-W7 Most jeep owners will tell you that 6v works fine. Your grounds and starter may need attention. What is the end play on your starter shaft? The starter has bushings that will wear and cause significant run out and drag the shaft. I just cleaned the commutator on my starter and reset the timing (after a valve, bearing and ring job) and it pops off in 2-3 rotations of the engine.

In a differential GL5 is completely acceptable. Its also completely acceptable in a manual transmission. If had this discussion plenty of times and can debunk many of the misconceptions: GL5 is NOT GL4 with additives. GL5 is a completely new oil. GL5 WILL NOT affect yellow metal in a transmission if it has the MT1 spec (GL5-MT-1 or some combination). GL5 WITHOUT the MT1 specification WILL NOT AFFECT yellow metal in a manual transmission. The sulpher compounds will not activate unless there is water AND the running temp of the oil reaches 250F or more. Since water boils off at 212F you have to have a significant amount of water or other, much larger issues. My 1966 (nay, ANY US Military M35) has been running GL5 in the differentials and transmission (5 speed, synchronous) for AT LEAST 20 years. The Lubrication order changed in the 1980's superseding GL1 (which basically straight mineral oil with anti foaming agents) so every M35a2/a3 you see on the road has had GL5 in it... ever hear of any massive issues with them? Nope. GL5 is easier to find, and since it more common its generally cheaper. I have had 90wt GL5 in my jeep for 8 years (tranny/trans/diffs) with absolutely no issues. Use what you like... but don't be concerned with GL5 blowing up your drive-line.. its just not happening.

NDTs are not made for hard surfaced roads. They are made for soft ground. Other than 'the look' running NDTs on pavement is an expensive way to scrub rubber off a tire. No modern army runs NDTs any more. If you want to be horrified by poor tread wear find a parking lot and do a 90 degree turn and look at the inside turn tires.. the scuffing is almost 90 degreess.... lowering the air pressure will not help that at all. In fact it makes it worse! The NDT is molded WITH A CROWN. The center rib is there for a reason. Why? Its the only part of a tire that touches the road 100% of the time! As noted above you have to deflate the tire to less than 50% of manufacturers recommendation to get your side bars to touch.. and as many TMs will tell you that's only for use in sand, at low speed, for a limited time. If you are truly want a 100% contact patch, switch the road tires.

I am also looking for the proper bolts that why I looked at the auction listing you posted. Details Bolt Diameter: 5/16" Bolt Length: 1.1/4" (not including head) Threaded Length: Full Thread Thread Pitch: 18 TPI Allen Key Size: 3/16" I'll post pics of an original and the ones I bought (that are two long). I'll go out and check the originals I have. Bodger or not (I'll assume that's not a good thing) if you have a reference that shows the proper wartime bolt size please post it.. any scrap of information if helpful.

Wrong pitch. You need 5/16th-24 x 1 1/4 24(TPI)threads per inch. Those are Thread Pitch: 18 TPI Plus they are socket head.

You cannot tell anything by the static visual appearance of a tire. When a tire spins centripetal force extends the sidewalls out. Once the tire rotates and comes into contact with pavement you get flex (as its only the bottom part that supports any weight). That is the point the tire flexes and builds up heat. If you run on hard surfaced roads NDTs are the ABSOLUTE WORST TIRE. They only get WORSE in rain. You are not saving anything by running less than 55psi. If anything you are increasing fuel consumption, increasing heat buildup, lowering handling and generally making a bad decision. How hot is the pavement in the summer time? Now add to that heat added by low air pressure. A tire will handle up to 400PSI before it blows out. But heat of only 100C will make it go BOOM. Read this.. its has pretty pictures: http://www.irsst.qc.ca/media/documents/PubIRSST/R-590.pdf [TABLE=width: 800] [TR] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 100][/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

The screws are just binding head (I incorrectly said fillister) head with a phillips drive. Not very common. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/N-1z0dna1 Good luck finding a a 5/16th-24 x 1 1/4 one though.. most are in 1/4 inch or smaller. Fillister head screws are 99% identical and much easier to find in the proper length/diameter/pitch.

Lower PSI is a HUGE no no. Low PSI at road speeds allow the sidewalls to flex and heat up. Heat destroys the vulcanized rubber and you get a blow out. The reason again, heat buildup and the rubber degrading and causing a blow out. I can look it up for you, but you can do a simple google of 'underinflated tire' I could cite an AM article... or any number of NHTSA reports... or X, Y and Z. 40PSI is TO LOW (a jeep is 35psi!) If you run at 40 PSI you have underinflated the tire by almost 30%! And with tires (or tyres) cost over $260USD each I think that getting the most mileage out of them is also going to be a key factor. An 'unladen' CCKW can still top out at 13,000lbs (5800+ kg) A tiny jeep (2500lbs) can still blow out an under-inflated tire. Its not the weight that get you... its the heat from the tire flex. Ever wonder why all cars now have a tire pressure monitor system?

The answer is 55PSI. If you read the TM9 it does call out for another pressure.. but only for a very specific SN range that use BEAD LOCK RINGS (CCKW-353-236404-2 to 236520-2) and they are inflated to 40psi. All references to 'standard' tires is 55psi. Obligatory TM9 page: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/435.pdf Read para ©. If you read further into para © it will specifically mention bead lock tires. You don't have those. CCKWs did not incorporate a bead lock ring aka the jeeps tire. But evidently a very small lot of CCKWs did. Now there WERE other PSI guidelines for sand, mud and even when overloaded to 5 tons (1psi per additional 1,000lbs of cargo). But the book number for a CCKW on hard surfaced roads is 55psi.

I don't have the sept 42 issue.. but I have the article about the cargo beds.. PM an email address and I email you a PDF copy. I got the pages when I local fellow who restores the wooden steering wheels came over to get some measurements of the wood bed I had just retrieved. I'm made contact with several people who say they have all the issues, but to date my request to digitize them have gone unfulfilled.

The only real difference is that vacuum hoses of large diameter will have a metal coil either embedded into the material or simply inserted into the hose. Some hoses are just made of such a hard/thick material to resist the compression.. but IIRC the CCKW uses the metal interior support method. Get a properly under sized wood rod, PVC or whatever (it has to be undersized to account for springback) and you can make your own support coil. If you google how to make a spring you'll see the process.. its simple.

There is an issue of Army Motors (Sept, 42) that has a parts list of hardware. Should be pretty simple to find out what are the proper screws. One thing I found out when I redid my M35a2 bows is that the standard length for the fillister head phillips screws were to long by about 1/2 inch. I have a local fastener place plus several industrial supplies locally and none had the proper length.. so they stick out the bottom quite far... so unless you cut them on a bandsaw your interior will be like a reverse porcupine. I've seen the corner bow straps on e-bay quite frequently. Other than the leather strap, they are identical to whats on the M35 bows. Remember to check your corner bows.. original WWII corner bows have the locating notch (as I call it) while post war M35/M44/M36 bows do not. http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=627 plus I posted here about them.

My drivers seat is in very good shape. Had to buy a new cover for the passenger bench... JATONKA had the covers pretty cheap. You gents are lucky to have a ton of CCKWs in the UK/EU... but I will never have to look far for M35a2 parts here in the USA.

The standard oil filters are inverted.. so they hold no oil. You fill the crankcase to the capacity listed. Even with the 'spin on kits' the filters are inverted.. so the key 'selling point' is that they give instant oil pressure sort of... http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16068 I've changed filters a couple times on my M35a2 and still use the standard cannister filters. I pay $8 a filter and have not had one drop of oil hit the ground from the filter. There are OTHER leaks... but not from the filters.

Ok.. I guess I won't change the minds of an entire contentment. Was worth a try. As for the knocking if the bearings were in spec (.002-.0035 or so) then I'd really reevaluate the whole 'knocking' diagnosis A quick google of 'engine knock' will quickly convince you that 'engine knock' is such an mis-diagnosed symptom that the term is effectively useless. My 'engine knock' for my jeep was valve guides. Now the tappet adjusting screws are ticking due to wear.

No shims on any bearing cap. I'd have to look in the TM about the crank thrust bearing... but the SNL does not mention shims.. just a spacer. And they are not called Jimmies. I know that will ruffle some feathers.. but gotta break people of the habit.

This should look like your wiring: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/316.pdf If you want to troubleshoot the regulator I have a FREE Delco Remy manual for you! http://www.tm9-801.com/DRElectrical/index.php Or it you like the TM version: http://www.tm9-801.com/tm9-1825a/index.php I recommend an ANALOG VOM because the digital may have trouble getting a good voltage from relays opening and closing. Oh, and to polarize the generator: http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/300.pdf The genny only puts out 8v at 1850RPM If you are lucky all you may have to do it clean/file the relay points and then set the air gap, then set working voltages. Its not hard... but will take a bit. Basically I would look at the CUT-OUT relay first... that's the one that will signal if the genny should supply current. If that one is out of wack then your genny is physically isolated from the system. Read the two TMs I listed... they should get you going.

Thank you for the offer. I'll draw up what I have using Google Sketch. You seem to have had some work done to the top of the tailgate... but the other bits seem the same. I'll PM you when I have them drawn up.

Did you plasti-gauge the rod bearings? Re-check the motor with a vacuum gauge.. if you had two leaking valves AND super worn rings that would have shown up as low vacuum or a bouncing needle. If you check again the vacuum gauge should be at a SOLID 20 in Hg (or whatever it is in mm/Hg). My jeep motor had a very consistant 3in Hg bounce.. new rings, valves, lapped valves and new springs I get a SOLID 20in/Hg. Its like a new motor.

Can someone direct me to some information regarding the terms and construction of the braided cloth electrical wire used in WWII MVs? Like how do you determine the frequency of the tracer? How do you configure for crossed and double tracers? How do you determine the number of spools you need to replicate a certain 'weave' (is that the correct term?) Any help would be appreciated.

Any properly API (or whatever committee assigned specifications to oil in your neck of the woods is) rated 15W-40 oil would be fine. Going off the old lube charts is nostalgic, but far more superior oils are available today.. and generally on the shelf. Be sure you go back and re-torque the adapter bolts as many people have had issues with leaking adapters. I don't buy into the 'spin on filters are better' view... I've done a couple of oil changes on my M35a2 and not had one wayward drop and get oil pressure as within 5 seconds of hitting the start button.