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Have you researched the proper data plates? There are over 21 different plates in 5 major groups. The plates that come from 'Poland' (I see them on ebay) are lacking as to correct plates. None should be brass. They used zinc for production trucks. I cannot find anything that points to brass plates (some very, very early trucks had factory brass plates) but like the great rubber purge, brass was quickly put on the 'strategic materials' list and data plates would not have been given an exception. Post your trucks SN if you like and I can get some plate info for you.

The article is in the Jan 45 issue of Army Motors. Here's a snippet: The issue of AM is available here: http://www.tm9-801.com/ArmyMotors/index.php

When the US Army switched from 140wt to 90wt gear oils there was a *huge* 'fight' as to the proper level. The oil level can rise almost an half an inch (1-2cm) when 'hot' due to expansion and air in the fluid. So you don't want to CHECK it when hot, but about 30 min after driving. Also, you don't want to check it 'cold' because if you rotate the ring gear due to wheel movement, a significant amount of cold oil will 'cling' (due to the oils viscosity) and show a very low reading.

You need a free copy of the TM9-801 located here: http://www.tm9-801.com/tm9-801/index.php The capacity of the axle depends on its type (split or banjo). Fill it to the level of the plug. The specific TM page is http://www.tm9-801.com/searchTM9/tm9_pages/157.pdf

Care to elaborate? I know for the later M SERIES the are are two types (the standard and a quick detach for the M35A2C drop side model). A quick check of several TMs,Army Motors and the 43 cargo bed assembly instructions never mention any possible secondary corners. Do you have pics or a part number?

Its actually an optical illusion I missed it also. The row on the right appears to have dual rears. The row on the left is much clearer. But the very first truck on the left appears to have a CCKW style engine side panel.

The rows of CCKWs appear to be fire trucks. You can see the siren and the hose reel. These also appear to be mostly Air Force vehicles that would also lend credence to them being CCKW crash trucks.

Thanks for the clarification.. There was an Army Motors article about how to remove the stuck/frozen side racks. Basically you wrap a chain around the upright and use the tire jack. I'll post pics of the issue this weekend.

I have no idea on what part you are trying to remove... "metal frames with wooden side panels/seats" ??????? A wooden cargo bed? I understand there is a language barrier... but bhwaa???? It was mentioned to heat the bolts 'red hot' NO!!!!!!!!! You will destroy the bolt's strength and most likely it will twist in two. Heat the NUT ONLY for no more than 10-15 seconds then wait for the heat to penetrate (about a minute) then turn the nut with a wrench. I took apart complete composite and wooden beds and its not hard. And WD-40 is a poor rust penetrant. KROIL is what you want. WD-40 displaces moisture... does nothing to free up rust.

I'm still going with valve guides. There are some TB's that were released in 43 regarding the crankshaft hitting part of the lower engine casting. If your bearings are worn you might have been hitting that. I can look up the specifics. But I still say valve guides.

Also the market determines the price... if someone discovers a shipping container full of Sparton horns and sells them for $50 vs the repros (that sound nothing like an original) that sell for $200 that is a major loss of value or all the guys with the repro's.. they would be values at less than the $50 for the original. Most repro parts are very high quality... but some things will never be made again (blocks, heads axles etc).

Then don't advertise it as a WWII Jeep if it is not. The biggest issue in not knowing what its made up of is the parts and maintenance. Need a new whatever, you buy one thinking you have a 44 Willys when in fact you don't. So that part either doesn't fit or doesn't work properly (distributors, oil pumps, cams, cranks, timing gear, transfer cases, electrical etc etc etc). CJ2 are *based* on WWII jeeps, but have some differences once you start looking at internals.

If you are applying the proper preservative to the cotton duck then it should be fine. Best thing you can do for any vehicle is drive it. Once or twice a month minimum. That keeps parts oiled and seals sealing. Idling might warm the oil, but does little for the rest of the mechanisms. Plus a trip on the road would remove standing water/piled on snow and allow the tires to warm up and not take a set. If you read the TM9 (you can download a free copy here: http://www.tm9-801.com/tm9-801/index.php ) there are some specific cold weather PMs you need to do, also there is a few paragraphs on long term storage that would be worth reading.

Heat may not be the right way to go if they are brass fittings. Brass gets way to soft after 700F and hitting that temp with a blowtorch is very easy (the flame is 2000F+) If its steel, set in in white vinegar for a few days. Take it out every day and hit (use common sense) to break the rust and allow the vinegar to seep in deeper. You will be amazed at the rust eating power of vinegar and molasses.

Most likely moved there due to the M1919 dash mount, which also looks homebrew. No way you could swivel very far with a rifle rack on the windscreen. Also note the footman loop just above the jerry can on the cowl. Them GIs are messing up a perfectly good jeep! hahaha

So what work was done? I read a lot.. but can't recall what work was accomplished? Did you just change rings and hone the cylinders?

Worn guides are about lateral motion, not vertical. New or worn valve guides are going to go in/out just fine. But any play side to side means that the valve is slamming into the seat crooked, not parallel to the face. I just completed my valve work on the jeep (new guides, valves, springs, lap the seats) and I cannot tell its running (I have to check the oil pressure gauge to see if its still running). And before it sounded like I had pebbles in the cylinders. My CCKW motor puts out a blueish smoke screen... so I'll dive into the valves on that first (compression was good over 100PSI on all tubes). Its not a noisy motor at all... just burns oil. Please post if you find the root cause of your noise.

In that last pic the tire has some significant sidewall cracking. I hope those are not your normal driving tires. For brake or other critical parts avoid NOS and go with new made. Rubber only lasts so long.

Have you checked the valve guide wear? I tore into my jeep this weekend and 4 of the 8 valve guides are shot. I could see oil in the intake ports. If you have a dial indicator you can easily check the guide wear... also measure the valve stem wear. I don't think you had a 'knock' (aka detonation) but since all the other diagnostic tests passed look at the valves/guides. They can make very horrible noises (the valve would slap against the side of the seat instead of being guided directly onto them. A quick check would be to see if the valve face is concave or worn unevenly.

Its not the rings (oil or compression) simply because 1. you had OK compression and 2. you were not burning oil. So either some of the tests were not done properly, or the gauges were read improperly, or you are not explaining what exactly is going on. My jeep engine makes all sorts or horrible noises... It still does. But compression, pressures, temp and mileage is still good so its just gonna make noise.

Sleeve the cylinders back to standard is an option. In the US that about $30-80 per hole... including the sleeve.

Your best source of specs is the older TM10 series. They actually had rebuild information as they were before the shift to the echelon system of maintenance that was introduced mid-war (43 or so). From the TM-10-1563 Jan 43 Compression ring: Gap .008 - .015 Ring and groove clearance .0015 - .0025 Oil ring: Gap .008 - .015 Ring and Groove clearance .002 - .0025 As for oil pressure the book number is 35-40 PSI at 1000RPM So about 50-60 at 2000 20-30 at idle. Higher if oil is cold. But should not be significantly lower.

If you have the crank out it might be a good idea to take it to a machine shop to have it mic'd and polished. My jeep crank only needed a polish but they told me the correct size of bearings to get. I really didn't want to rely on the painted on number on the crank. Cost about $60 US last year. The painted number was right, but the bearing shells were not marked, well, other than the script 'F' on each one. When you put the connecting rods back in, measure the side clearance. Your noise could be from a sloppy lateral fit.

A quick plastigauge of the main bearing would tell you all you needed. They may look horrible, but its all about the clearance for oil. If you didn't note low oil pressure, then they would work fine as long as they gauged .003 or less. My jeep main bearings looked new, except that I couldn't muster more than 30 psi on the oil gauge at speed and they gauged at .005. New main bearings and I hold 50psi, 10 at idle.

Thinner oil kinda works... you get a miniscule improvement.. 1-3% in MPG. So 3% of 8 = .24 mpg improvement 8.24 MPG vs 8.. blow one shift and you just lost that .24 mpg. General rule is nothing you pour into a motor fixes anything. Now if your car was getting 35mpg 3% * 35 = 1.05 or 36.05 MPG now you are talking.