andym

There were some 2005 rebuilds on the Withams stand at W&P for £9500 + vat. They have K60s in them so no change of engine, just a full strip and rebuild to latest Mk 2/1 spec. Andy

Folks - I wonder if we're in danger of getting confused between "legal to own" and "legal to operate"? Andy

I suspect that of course, any Bowman manuals you come across will be marked "Restricted" and suggest that you hand them in to the nearest Police station! Andy

So has anyone tried going round some of these parks with a metal detector, then? :nut: Andy

Hmm - that's bizarre. Looking at the wiring diagram I can't see anything obvious that's common to the headlights and indicators. Sounds like time for the multimeter as Iain suggests. Might be worthwhile just checking the bulbs first? All my lights work apart from one tail light, although the stop light works so I'm hoping it's just the bulb. I need to get my meter out though to investigate the temperature gauges, both of which seem to want to stay at half scale all the time! Andy

The indicators will only work when you're in gear (no, I don't know why either!) - they're fed via the microswitch that prevents you starting unless you're in neutral. I don't know about the headlights as they're fed from the same fuse or breaker as the other lights, so perhaps you've got a loose wire somewhere? Andy

I bought an interesting assortment: A pair of new ANR Clansman headsets, a set of FV432 mortar hatch latches, tank driver's overalls, a RAK15 Boiling Vessel and a Skorpion SMG. Andy

There's no substitute for someone who's been there and done it - nice one, Iain! Andy

The parts list says that the lock nut is 5/8" UNF, so that'll be a 15/16" spanner (same as the wheel nuts, if that helps!) Andy

The auction ended with no bids at 0945 this morning. Andy

Presumably that means you get stung for road tax? :embarrassed: Andy

Both the book and the DirectGov reference imply that the test is taken on the road - mine wasn't! Andy

That identification worked a treat - good to see you, sorry I didn't get back in time for the trip round the site! :embarrassed: Andy

Try his next one, "Phoenix Squadron"? Very much in the same vein although perhaps not quite so engaging. Andy

That's the gearbox oil filter warning light and sounds fairly serious. "The gearbox filter warning light will illuminate to indicate the gearbox filter is blocked, requiring replacement. No attempt should be made to run the vehicle if this light is showing". Andy

I've got to ask before you splash out a hard-earned £70 - are you really sure this is a metric thread? It seems unlikely considering the age of the vehicle. I suppose that buying an M30 bolt would allow you to check! Andy

Paul - I'm in much the same state at the moment, trying to work out what I've been left with so that I can get the intercom back up and working for starters. I took the top off the left-hand RJB and it does indeed just contain a pair of terminal blocks fed by the plug. I'd suggest that the RJBs are as good a place as any to pick up your 24V. Andy

Any joy with the annotated map yet? As a newbie it would be good to see where people are so I can say hello. I'm currently trying to lose a meeting on Friday so I can avoid visiting at the weekend .... :cool2: Andy

Sounds like a 1/2" bolt then, but I suspect it's UNC rather than UNF. Time for a quick trip to friendly bolt suppliers ... Andy

Just to redress the balance somewhat, my updated driving licence arrived one week to the day that I passed my H test and surrendered it to the examiner! Andy

Not too stupid, just too sensible! :nut: Andy

Thanks Iain - I didn't want to welly it too hard for fear of dislodging the jacking bar. Any idea what the bolt threads are? I didn't have anything suitable to hand and they look a far coarser thread than I'd have expected bearing in mind the thickness of the material and the intended usage. Andy

Today saw my first attempt at the heavy stuff - changing some of the less happy road wheels. So I fitted the jacking bar and successfully raised an axle. I was rather surprised to see that the road wheels were attached with bolts rather than studs as the Unit Repairs manual had suggested the latter. Anyway, bolts removed and then I discovered the wheels were stuck fast. The outer wheel was removed by diagonal levering between the two wheels, but I couldn't shift the inner wheel at all. There seems to be a pair of tapped holes in the wheel - are they just to insert bolts to break the wheel off the hub, or is there something more complicated involved? Andy

Here's my radio distribution box. There are two output looms made from white Nyvin, a four cable one at the front and a two cable one you can just see at the back. This is what the four cable one looks like: They feed a pair of boxes marked "Mod RJB", one near the commander's shoulder and one underneath the engine fire extinguishers. Here's the latter: I suspect, but haven't yet checked, that on each RJB the incoming power is on the side socket and there's probably a pair of terminal strips inside feeding the cables that come out through the grommets. Just pop the cover off, connect to the terminal strip and off you go! Andy

I'll be looking at one of these for my FV432, too. I think the best way to power them is to use a 12V unit and feed it from a 24V-12V converter like the one that Maplin make. That way it will be protected from any thumps and bumps on the 24V supply. Andy