andym

If you mean the warning light on the driver's panel, the one on my 432 is never on once the engine is running, regardless of rpm. It's supposed to extinguish once the generators reach charging voltage and that should be at any engine speed over 600rpm. I suspect you've either got very flat batteries or a rectifier/control box problem - is the ammeter showing any charge? If you've got a voltmeter, check the voltage across the batteries with the the engine running, it should be 28.5V +/- 0.5V. Andy

Perhaps she just likes being painted something other than yuck green? :cool2: Andy

When I was at Piccadilly Radio in Manchester in the 1980s we had two Outside Broadcast trucks built on Ford Cargo 0815 chassis. They were registered and taxed as PLG because they didn't satisfy the definition of HGV in that they didn't carry "goods". They also didn't have tachos for the same reason. The rules may have changed since then, but it's worthwhile asking if your PHGV is actually an HGV at all? Andy

The RN was issuing ancient serge battledress as late as 1974, I remember collecting mine from stores at Wrangaton! Not sure about the trouser turnups, though. Andy

Have you got her all back together now, Iain? Andy

Chas - I've found a copy of "Firearms Law - Guidance to the Police" published by the Stationery Office in 2002. In Chapter 3, Definitions of Prohibited Weapons, it says: vi) any rocket launcher, or any mortar, for projecting a stabilised missile, other than a launcher or mortar designed for linethrowing or pyrotechnic purposes or as signalling apparatus (section 5(1)(ae)); I think therefore that the 5(1)(ae) is a reference to the Firearms Act itself. Andy

I've only got the Shielder manual, but that says gearbox warm, engine stopped, wait a few minutes for the oil to settle. Andy

As a relative newbie could I please add my thanks too? Andy

It will be very interesting to see if this is really a DVLA/VOSA policy change or just someone's local opinion. Andy

She also struck and sank U103 in WW1 and earned the nickname "Old Reliable" for her commercial service after the war. It was the third ship, Britannic, that struck a mine (or possibly a torpedo) in 1916. I think the current theory about "defective materials" is focused on the rivets, not the plates themselves. There's a belief that the collision with the iceberg caused to rivet heads to fail and spring the seams. For those who want to make up their own mind about what happened, I'd recommend http://www.titanicinquiry.org/ as a good read, but it will take you a while! Andy

Agreed. Titanic was built not only to be the largest and most luxurious ship afloat, but also the safest, even if nowadays we may question some of the design decisions. One of the problems with applying hindsight is that people's actions may seem odd or even downright dangerous to us now, but we don't have their mindset. Careering at twenty-plus knots through a known area of ice may seem suicidal, but it was common practice. Titanic carried the number of lifeboats required by the Board of Trade at the time as they were only intended to act as ferries to another vessel. A lot of myth has become "fact" due to repetition. As an example, Titanic wasn't at maximum speed when she hit the iceberg as has often been stated. Her maximum speed isn't known as she'd never had all the boilers lit; that trial was due to take place the next day. Accounts from passengers and crew at the two enquiries differ, as you'd expect, and over the years writers have chosen which ones to repeat and which to ignore in order to "prove" their version of what happened. Perhaps as the centenary approaches it's time for a thorough, unbiased reappraisal of the witness statements? And as for Belfast celebrating the centenary? Why? Money! :cool2: Andy

Having had a chance to get home and read the manuals, Richard is correct, the socket provides up to 12kVA at 208V 400Hz from the front alternator after swapping the No. 1 plug in the distribution link box. The link box cable was removed by General Instruction No. 5 for Reason Code 1 - to improve safety. The stated intention was that the power tool transformer, other associated cabling and the output socket would removed at the next base overhaul. That's odd, because I think that every FV430 I've seen has the output socket still in place to the right of the rear door. I don't know if I've still got the link box cable or transformer in my FV432, I'll have to look next time I visit. The Operating Information for Radio Relay Installation in FV439 says that mains connection to the RRI(T) is through the import mains socket (power tool socket) located at the rear RH side of the door. So if you've got an RRI(T) FV439 your power tool socket may not be quite what it seems! Andy

The versions of "the truth" about the sinking seem to be multiplying as we approach the centenary ... Andy

I was just going to say it looks like an early Barrett! Andy

I'm away from home so can't check the manuals, but I'm pretty sure it was an AC supply of some sort from a transformer off the rear alternator. They were taken out as a modification quite early on, probably because they weren't very safe! The modification removed the transformer but left the wiring and socket in place. Some early FV439s with AC generators (Onans?) used the socket as an external 240V connection with an RCD panel near the BV plug bracket on the right hand side of the door frame. Andy

Good point - I'll pay more attention next time! :embarrassed: Andy

Methinks that reading the Health and Safety at Work Act might be useful, especially understanding the obligations of employer and employee. And I think we've wandered off-topic somewhat! Andy

For reference it works fine for me not only with Firefox 3.5 at home but also the ancient IE6 at work. Andy

£2.50! :-D Andy

Don't forget fleabay as a source of tools. I've just picked a set of six new combination Hilka spanners for £1.30! Andy

I'm also confused about the comments regarding people coming over to "drive it" if the interior is gutted? I'm assuming it's no longer mobile? Andy

I didn't fill in the V5C for mine, but I'd have thought "Historic Vehicle" would be a good start? Andy

Eh? Tell me more! Andy

Looking good, Iain! Andy

There's been some discussion here on the "Hawker" batteries on several occasions, so here's some information I've gathered that people may find useful. If you think I'm teaching Granny to suck eggs this probably isn't for you! These batteries are usually known as the "Hawker" in the UK after their manufacturer, Hawker Enersys, and as "Armasafe" in the US after the trade name used by the Enersys parent company. They exist in two main forms, a vented type (UK6TNMF, 6140-99-219-2903) or a sealed type (12FV120, 6140-99-690-6632). The latter is the same as the US variant, 6140-01-485-1472. Other than the vent, all the batteries are identical and use an AGM (Advanced Glass Mat) design with the electrolyte held like a sponge. They won't spill or leak if cracked and stand a good chance of working with a round through them. Compared to the more common flooded lead-acid 6TN batteries, the Hawkers have approximately double the Cold Cranking Amps (1225A), a higher capacity (110Ah) and a much longer shelf life - up to five years. They require no maintenance other than keeping them charged, and unlike conventional lead-acids can be successfully recovered from very low states of charge if neglected. However, they're also a lot more expensive than conventional lead-acids! There's quite a lot of information on the Internet about care of these batteries, mainly from the US - try Googling "Armasafe" if you want to know more. However, it's worthwhile repeating that although they are "maintenance-free", these batteries do need some TLC to keep them in good condition. It is important to check their OCV (Open Circuit Voltage) every now and then. OCV is a much better indicator of state of charge for an AGM battery than a conventional lead-acid, and the Hawker is fully charged at 12.9V and half-charged at 12.2V. If the OCV falls below 12.6V then the battery should be charged asap. Even without external current drains such as the Firewire system on FV430s and other AFVs, batteries will self-discharge over time so it's important to keep an eye on the OCV of batteries in vehicles that are only used intermittently. Note also that a conventional lead-acid battery self-discharges at around 5% per month (the Hawker is around 1%, another advantage!) and in both cases the rate doubles with every 10 degree C rise in temperature. The Hawker likes to be charged from a constant voltage source of 14.25V, which is why on an FV430 the charging voltage is set at 28.50V +/- 0.5V which I assume is the same for other vehicles. Off the vehicle a conventional mains charger can be used provided that it doesn't exceed 15V when charging, otherwise you're likely to damage the battery. By far the best option is to use a modern pulse charger such as those manufactured by Pulsetech in the US. Both the DOD and MOD use their "World Charger" and I bought the smaller "Xtreme Charge" from the UK importer. This is a very clever piece of kit that not only charges batteries intelligently according to their state but can also recover dead ones due to its pulsing action. I've got four "new" Hawker batteries in my FV432 which were at 12.5V when I bought them and the Xtreme Charge quickly brought them up to 100% with no problems. More interestingly, I had a rather sad looking Hawker that came with the vehicle and had an OCV of just over 8V. I put it on the charger and left it for four days, by which time it was back up to 100% - not bad for a "dead" battery, demonstrating the useful combination of a modern battery and appropriate charger. A conventional lead-acid battery in that state would almost certainly be scrap. I hope that information is useful to others, I'd better finish by saying that I've no connection with Hawker or PulseTech other than being a very satisfied customer! Andy