Mk3iain

Is there a publication/manual dealing with the AV760 in detail? I am looking at removing the TL12 heads and turbo at some stage and returning the truck to standard. I am unsure if the Bosch injector pump and injectors are for turbo or n/a...etc :confused:

Ah, now I understand the problem. I should have thought, walking beam axles etc.... must study more :readbook:

Exactly, I would have thought any roadgoing twin axle set up would have an inter-axle diff. If you have a diff. lock you must have a diff. surely. Is it not that for a roller brake test, each axle is tested individually and you need the diff. to stop the drive going to the other axle? So if you have a diff. lock, dont lock it. Are there trucks without inter axle diffs.? I reserve the right to be wrong (always!):confused:

I have just today received an AEC book that deals with the post war history. It just mentions the various vehicles in general terms with no real detail.

Some flatracks on the Jackson site! No doubt v expensive, but you never know. Just seen a pig fly by.....

Hi All Does anyone know of a good source of information on the Militant Mk3, specifically the recovery version. I have thumbed the article in the July 2002 issue of Classic Military hundreds of times over the years and now am not so sure on its accuracy, ie production figures. It states a production total of about 200 up to reg. series 87ET00, I have 88ET12? (ex. Grumpy.) Any info on these wreckers and the AV760 would be much appreciated. I have on order "AEC Lorries in the Post War Years 1945-1979" by Graham Edge. Many thanks in anticipation. (Grumpy, Still after the battery tray! please PM)

Should be no need to disconnect, they should charge ok in-situ individually. But as has been said they should not need to be charged all the time!

I knew no better, still dont!:nut:

Chieftain. In its day it just looked and sounded fantastic.

Maybe worth checking the connection inside the engine compartment on the bulkhead where the gearselector neutral line comes out. I had one come off and its the same symptoms as being in gear. Should be able to reach an arm in and feel around to check it. Worth a couple of minutes!

I ran one (Chieftain Mk10 11FD67) for a couple of years. As a non expert ex. blue job, first I got "genned up" by Sammy at A+S. An absolute must! They are complex and need much tlc but can be reliable (relative term!). Things to note: Loads of different oils, you must have all the manuals, the main eng takes 20 gal! Must do pre checks every time. The items I used most were, fuel filters and steering brake pads (had a couple of fires there). When you get "the knack" they last longer. The gear change units can play up mainly if damp gets in I understand. The late standard engine seems almost bullet proof if cared for and not abused, main problem I had was occasional loss of power, this was due to crud in the fuel system cured with a flush out and new filters when required. Just my experience as a novice, too expensive for me now, but what an experience! I still have some tools, service parts and smoke pots etc Iain

I would imagine for organisers to fully cover themselves against all eventualities would be very expensive, and the way things are these days there is the threat of being sued. The same for us, if for example someone is cut on a sharp part of your vehicle or bumps their shin climbing on it they can get a lawyer to sue you. "no win no fee". It happens! Damm "elf and safety" police!!

Hi My policy from Footman James states on the certificate; "Limitations As To Use Use for social, domestic and pleasure purposes and in connection with rallies, working demonstrations and exhibitions. The policy does not cover for hiring, racing, compititions, trials or speed testing." I would have thought this would be standard on "specialist" insurance. If not included I am sure a call and at most an admin. charge to have it altered. I have recently filled in the exhibitor form for the BA Working weekend in Aberdeenshire and they require this cover for all exhibitors, I am sure this is standard now.

Just gone over it from the beginning, fascinating project and very inspiring. Would love to see that sort of detail on a AEC Militant Mk3 recovery! Hey I just remembered, I have one!! Luck would have it, its available on loan if you want to have a go.:cool2: Well done, that is a top job. How did you get on with the seat cushions? I need some for my Milly(some worn some missing). Iain

Just having the right tool when you need it! One of my favourite is a Killaspray (5l pressurised type)weed killer bottle used for oil filling. Take off the spray lance and put on a 1/4 turn valve and a curved piece of pipe to get to those hard top up points ie gearboxes etc I got fed up with squeezing those small plastic bottles! We use them on ROVs to fill up oil tanks and electrical junction boxes, they are an "industry standard". Sorry no pic (yet).

I have been chasing leaks in the air systems on my Milly and noticed that the air pickup line to the pump is connected to the rear inlet manifold ! OK I think that is normal, except this engine has been fitted with a turbo !! I suspect this has been a problem for a couple of reasons. At low revs the pump is competing with the engine for air. At high revs pressure is being lost from the manifold. I have disconnected and blanked the manifold pipe and am going to route the pump air pipe to a source of clean air. Am I chasing my tail or am I right, it just did not make sense ? Iain

Yes, many thanks. Please keep the recollections coming...:thanx:

Mark 24v vehicle systems use two 12v batteries wired in series ie. pos terminal of one battery to the neg terminal of the second battery, this gives 24v across both toghether. If you can use 24v then just use the vehicle power supply. The batteries will be OK to run this low load system without any special care. If you are using the vehicle for occasional short runs as against regular extended use it is worth using a conditioner on each of the batteries when it is not in use. They can be charged in situ OK if they are charged independantly, if you have two chargers they can be done at the same time, just beware of the polarities. On short runs the batteries may not get time to fully charge and over time one will loose more charge than the other. A long run will sort this but I find using smart conditioners keeps them topped up and extends their life. Conditioners are cheaper than batteries! Your motorbike charger will have to work hard on a part discharged large capacity battery. iain

I dont know the CVRW so cannot comment on oil/coolant seviceing. I would expect the power supply to be 24v and you will have 2 bats for the vehicle and 2 more for turret and radios I would guess. You can use your trickle charger on each battery in turn, but it will be working long and hard if the batterys are discharged to any extent. Best to use a normal charger to bring them up and the trickle charger to maintain charge during storage. This can be done in situ with the bats connected but I have found if you are not going to use the vehicle for a few weeks it is best to disconnect them and use a battery conditioner that switches off when fully charged. I am sure the Optimate Pro is a conditioner that can be left on for long periods. Hope this helps Iain

I do appreciate what you are saying and dont mean to be critical. But when teaching you have to be literal with your wording, to say Kick to a "novice" will be translated to a kick in practice. I know, you know what you meant and it is good gen. but see it from a learners perspective. I have taught ROV pilots, car drivers , put people through their H class etc and have learned this the hard way. Best regards PS agreed, Troy should now know enough to get out there and enjoy.

Hi Unimogs were and possibly still are used on Harrier squadrons for support of the a/c ie towing etc On field helicopter squadrons we had to use landrovers to tow, mainly "lightweights" fitted with work platforms and a 24v a/c connection. Some may have been nabbed in the Falklands but they were standard issue anyway. So I suppose would be painted standard colours. Iain

Chris Good advice, but not sure on the "kick" better to be "Fast and smooth", a positive all the way down then up movement, with your foot on the pedal all the way through and in full control. Just a "wee" point but if your new to this the change could be unecessarily violent.

The best Ferret driving I have seen was by a couple of ex. Rhodesian army chaps. They were visiting Scotland and after twenty years still remembered how to drive their old ride. Never seen such smooth and precise driving, revs always just right. Strangely on a dirt road they drove with one set of wheels on the centre ridge !! They told me it was to avoid mines, old habit hard to break even after 20 years.:saluting:

Hi Troy Just a quick warning before someone more qualified can give you the correct technique for Fox gear changing and driving. I have had a couple of Ferrets and was trained by an ex. Army insructor. Thankfully or things could have got expensive. DO NOT use the left peddel as a clutch. Letting the brake bands slip could burn them out !! For the time being WAIT Read up the on manuals and any other info you have. Someone will be along to guide you on. That said when you get used to to the technique it is very easy. Iain

The DVLA office will note the new reg. number on the docs you hand in, and return them to you. At least that is what has happened whenever I have registered a vehicle. Good luck and be polite but firm! Forgot to say, Your insurance co. will need to be informed and will re issue your certificate!