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Thanks for the comments guys! Lee... you're going to have fun getting in and out! If you thought there was an art to a Fox, you've not seen anything yet! I'll leave the drivers scope in, and the chain gun on, just to make it more interesting Chris

Finally got some paint on the Sabre this Saturday. It looked great for about 2 hours while it was drying, then I had to climb all over it to take the tape off and now it's covered in footprints. All the bins have been blasted, and the front set are all new. It's on track to be at Beltring, just a small list of jobs left to do. It was getting late on Saturday, so I didn't have a chance to take some decent photos, but here's a taster... Chris

Which variant was it? Can't see one listed here... http://www.afvsociety.co.uk/html/Vehicle_register.html But that doesn't mean much, as my Sabre isn't on there either. Chris

We're going to attempt to take the Fox again. Last year we made it just over 1/2 way before breaking down, the year before it didn't even make it off the drive. Hopefully this year we'll make it all the way. I will also be taking my Land Rover! Chris

Bob has a Saladin on milweb, try the details listed there. Chris

Keep digging..! http://www.silver-bullet-vehicles.co.uk/fv610.htm

Mine was exempt with V112G. Print one out, fill it in and take it with you when registering/taxing the vehicle.

That's a lot of typing without answering any questions? Green Machine Surplus will be able to help with some of those, and Vintage MV Manuals have the manuals. Look them up on milweb. Chris

I have a socket which fits that nut, they are easy enough to get hold of.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_accumulator You'll need them to be charged so that you have brakes and steering. Chris

My Ferret had sat for a long time before I got it. It didn't turn over so sprayed WD40 down the bores for a couple of days, then tried turning it over again. When it was free I cleaned the points, put some fuel in it and away it went. Never had a problem since. Chris

Well he's not entirely correct, although along the right lines. The correct tension is 5.3 - 6.1 inches for Scorpion/Scimitar and 4.7 - 5.7 inches for the other variants. There is also no minimum number of links in the current AESP, it just gives a pitch measurement between pin centres over 10 links, when the pitch becomes excessive the track is scrapped. The number of links of track per vehicle is also given as an approximate number, due to slight variations in track and vehicles when new. Unlike Alien I have the manuals close to hand, and have read them Chris

Doubt what?!

The problem with CVRT track is that the rubber pads are moulded into the links. Although the actual track links are ok, as are the bushes, the pads are worn out so the track is scrap. If you could find a way of removing the old rubber without destroying the rest of the link, then in theory you could recondition it. As it is the track is usually thrown away once it reaches this stage. Hopefully I shouldn't need to change the track again for a long time, I should get around 1000 miles out of it. Chris

I'm exhausted today after an intensive weekend of track changing on the Sabre. We fitted a set of NOS track, 20 NOS wheels and also new sprockets and carriers. I figured most people haven't seen this done before, so I've posted a few photos. This isn't the method in the manual, that suggests driving off one set of track and onto the next. Since I wanted to change all the wheels and also paint everything I did it by removing the track from one side, jacking the vehicle up, removing all the wheels, painting everything and then reassembling. We did one side a day. The track weighs somewhere around 750kg a set, so we have lugged about 1500kg of track this weekend. Not to mention the wheels etc! Chris

CNC punching? What exactly do you want making Jack? If it's just a shape cut out of flat plate you should be able to find somewhere that does laser cutting, which will be reasonably cheap. Chris

This is the kind of Gnome I'm used to... http://www.everettaero.com/gnome.html Chris

Jack, http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070821145128AARJkHq Chris

This may help. Sorry about the quality, it's reflective so won't scan. Chris

From where to where Rick? I know a local company who moved my Sabre for me.. but they are based in Nottingham. Chris

David, That's the one I have. I'll have to dig out the bits, but you need some guy ropes, the base plate and the insulator (don't know what it's real name is) in order to put it up. Chris

David, Post a photo if you can. I have a mast which sounds like yours so may be able to help. Chris

Mick, The plastic grill is correct, have you tried looking on ebay for a cheap replacement? Whatever you do don't put a bright silver one on, or it will look even worse! Chris

John, Remember that the gear change pedal linkage may also need adjusting in order to get it to correctly select the gears. If you remove the gear selector mechanism you can select the gears manually while someone else depresses the pedal to see if it's a problem there or not. Chris

Mick, You can do the pattern with either a brush or spray. If you brush it you'll get hard transitions. I spray everything, and find it quicker and easier. The easiest way is to buy a tin of nato green, spray/roller/brush that on first, then get some cans of matt black spray paint from Halfords to do the black. You should stick to about 1/3 black and 2/3 green, but there is no hard and fast rule. My Sabre was more like 2/3 black when I got it straight from the MoD. I guess the answer is, paint it how you like, there is no authentic look. Chris