robin craig

Ah hah, I can clearly see the problem . . . . . . well not quite. R

Mark, to add an alternate cable lubrication method, not that Andy's is wrong or bad in any way. My mate Dave Lowe (known as Daphne to his friends) lubricated a Land Rover 101FC winch control cable by making up a resevoir with threads at the bottom to screw onto the top of the cable sheathing. He then added oil to the resevoir and connected it to the shop compressor which he left turned on at a suitable psi and went and had a few pints and went to bed, or something similar. He went back about a day later and the oil had worked it's way down between the outer sheathing and the inner cable all the way to the end. Doing this was in his view simple and effective and safe and time effective. My 2 cents worth. Mark you did not answer the question about the smoke grenade dischargers. R

Dear All and Tony and Griff, Thanks for your input. Yes there are tremendous forces involved and it is being designed and fabricated to deal with those. The fabrication point is 7 kilometers from the Ferret. I agree, a trailer with a winch would be grand, our work trailers are bigger and are deck over wheels not between wheels. If you re-read the preamble / definition of the project, I want to be independent with the kit I can count on being around. I was hoping and planning to do more today but was ensnarled with my daughters car and it's own sad tale of woe. Bank of Dad here we go again . . . . R

As you may know my partner Jan and I own a Canadian Ferret. I am preparing to work on it. It will have to roll in and out of the workshop at work during out of work hours as I can not tie up the space. While we are an active farming operation and have many pieces of heavy equipment on site in the collection that I manage we are actually located over two locations separated by 7 kilometers, so the availability of a particular tractor or other machinery is not always right at hand and to get it is at least a 14 kms round trip. Winter is coming and salt will be on the roads and hence we dont drive some kit in the winter to reduce salt damage. That being understood, and my desire to be fiercely independent when it comes to my own kit vs work kit you will understand how I want to be able to move the Ferret firstly from one location to the other and then in and out of the shop on my own with the truck that I drive which is a Dodge Ram 1ton with 4wd and well capable of pulling 4 tons. We have a set of Holleybone bars (A bars by another name) with which I have become all too familiar with and know that if used correctly are safe and good for a single person operation. As there is no provision to mate said A bars to a Ferret I have set about making that possible, but bearing in mind that the condition of "no new holes, nothing welded on" must be satisfied. I am not into fancy intricate fabrication with milling machines and perfectly shaped pieces, just lots of good old "rough engineering made easy" with quick and dirty welding and cutting of on hand materials but done in a way that is solid and safe. Pictured below is a picture of the first part which is an angle 4" X 3" with some clips welded on and some suitable steel tube that allows the pins to attach. This is the start of the simple fabrication what will allow me to move either Ferret (the second one is being traded) at will on my own at slow speeds. The piece of beam underneath is nothing to do with the A bar Hope you enjoy this Robin

Howard, You ask some good questions. Over on Maple Leaf Up there has been a thread running on the subject. Briefly I will paraphrase what has been said. There were many makers and types from many eras. Steel and Aluminium were made, some postwar for the Viet Nam conflict. The major type seems to be 10 feet in length with connections only on the side. Recently I purchased 8 lengths that are a different style, they have the conventional sides but also connections at the ends. They link together side by side without being staggered. Once a block of 10ft width has been made the next "block" is started at 90 degrees to it clipping onto the ends that have slots to receive it. The end result is a parquet floor effect with blocks alternating as they progress. Locally a Ferret owner used this style, doing what he believed would have been done by units, which is to cut the lengths in half and make some washers that weld to the openings to allow them to mount securely to the original stowage mounts. R

So, understanding that these units were to support "tactical" Harrier off airfield operations, is the colour scheme shown on the vehicle the delivery colour? Were they toned down or repainted for the "tactical" usage? R

Are the front and rear smoke grenade dischargers unique to that ARV? R

Unless it belongs to him, I bet Steve Shirley is green with envy, and even if he isn't, I am for sure, what a bootiful combination with wonderful past. Presume military plates are on order to complete the last detail R

Applied logic and small amounts of horsepower united in a sensible set up for best effect. Excellent tale, that will only be made better by the suitable pictures. Brilliant R

You could, if adventurous, do one half cammed up and the other half not cammed up. Get people to have a look at the difference, adds a bit more understanding for the great masses of civvies attending. R

what has been the reason for tearing the suspension down in the begining? can you post picture as Im away from my manuals etc may be able to advise if I see something R

with that much weight up top it really needs another road wheel station to calm it down a bit, pitches pretty badly. R

All of our 6 diesel tractors and all diesel vehicles and all stationary kit get treatments for low sulphur diesel. If you don't, more fool you, the evidence is clear as to why one should. R

Al, You need to work in a logical manner from a known point. I am seriously suggesting you pull the radio tray out and go through the fuel system from stem to stern as it is only by a logical inspection will you find the problem. Running the vehicle on the second setting of the choke is indicative that the problem is supply of fuel as you have spark now I am assuming? It is likely to be aggravation to get it sorted, the fuel system is awkward to take apart because of your turret and all the interior bling you have but it is likely that in the end the fuel tank will have to be drained and flushed to ensure a supply of good fresh fuel. Having been underneath a Ferret lying in a puddle of fuel when someone didn't put new copper crush washers on the banjo bolts, use new ones. The stem extensions on the banjo bolts are worth it to exclude the crud. The change over tap needs to be looked at closely. All lines need to be carefully blown out. I think in the end you will find that is is a fuel supply and quality of fuel issue. R

I can likely help. Do you have parts number from the manual. Send me by EMAIL the details of your vehicle and I will ask the boys at the Hammond Barn to help you. They are the CMP tinkering twits. Far too old for me to be playing with. R

Is that a DIY sandblaster you are using? What brand? What kind of CFM and pressure and what media are you using? Have you had any joy with DLR and the bumper? Maybe it is an OEM part still available? R

Richard, ours has an AWD badge on it. R

are you scratch building something cvrt related in 1/35 scale? R

The AWD badge was that colour when we got her, it is moulded that colour. As far as some "git" walking past and taking the plate off, no i'm not worried by it one bit because it sits flat and doesnt look like anything but a normal plate. Trust me it wont "bounce" off. The vehicle is either in the collection or on the road to a show or at a show where as soon as we arrive the plate is removed and put inside out of harms way. But thanks for the concern R

So, There is also the need to comply with the rules of the road and we need to display our civvy registration. Here it is, fixed to magnetic sheeting by 2 way permanent tape. There is enough of a flat surface on the bumper for a secure mounting. No new holes, nothing welded on, no tools required and simple and effective Another job done R

Well, It is the day before we leave for a military show and parade and in true fashion it has been a flurry of activity to get kit sorted out. Well the kit being the vehicles, and our policy is to improve a vehicle if we use it. So the thrust was to get the basic military markings onto this left hand drive Bedford. I have looked through various posts and all the "right ways" to do it and settled on what I can do with basic stencil kits and locally available paints. First was the bridge plate, a little big I think but adds pzaz. The national flag looked best on the bumper so that is where it went. The registration looked best with 3 inch stencils, the 4 inch were just over powering. We have done the rear in the same method but doing it right with the 77 on the top line with the KE 32 on the line below. So that satisfies my basic markings lust. Again sorry for cell phone pics but they are quick and easy. R

I would echo the previous post, of course if anyone owns one of them they should be offered them, that is only right. Robin

Before any welding is done make sure you have the batteries disconnected! Very easy to overlook. As was said in previous post a Nickel Chrome is correct. We have just gotten around that issue by double gasketing with proprietary material and good clamping pressure on a Ferret the other week. R

There is much made of the tyres on the DAF as being poor off road. Our MJ had bar grips on it, but after getting sideways on the road in a rain storm we changed them to the latter style which at least can let water out rather than the continuous contact of the bar grips. Any comments? R

I pinged him this morning from MLU R