robin craig

Re rotten windows, so if i understand correctly the window openings are rotten and you propose a Z flange. The outer edge of the flange gets welded to good steel and the inside forms a seating surface for the window. I guess my only concern would be making a 100% good seal to the competant material on both the outside and the inside. I think welding the outside or using one of the body work seam sealers are your options. Frankly I quite like the new age seam sealers / adhesives as that stuff will not only bond the to but also remove any air voids that will allows moisture to collect. It is always any of the places that laminations occur that are the worst places for rust to start. The American M series "Reo" trucks are terrible for that in the cargo box sides. You will have your work cut out for yourself forming the Z flange at the corners, i think you will have to make up jig board to work on the get the proper shape. I think you are going the right way mate. It will look smart and tidy but also have the integrity you need to be a long lasting repair R

while I also welcome you to the Ferret part of the clubhouse parking lot, where in heavens name are the pictures???? R

Something comes to mind that as the original rear idler assembly was designed for the petrol CVRT fleet and now it is used on the dieselised and Stormer vehicles that there is an issue of torque at play that is causing too much stress. That is what keeps on rattling around my brain. R

According to the BBC it was a "technical failure" link here http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-bradford-west-yorkshire-12443353

Dear exrock, I have another thread running that shows how the arm in question mounted on a Stormer was damage due to the track being thrown but stopping part way off with the guide horns up on the idler wheel and the rubber pad in contact with the sponson underside which is when the track stopped moving as its height is bigger than the gap it was trying to fit through. R

Christmas is coming Clive . . . R

Just for clarification to all those who are not aware, that a "gasser" is not a rare variant of the 432 but infact a MK 1 "Petrol" version. As the immigrant in CMPMAN's country I thought I would translate that for everyone. R

Well as usual Diana and Jackie, great info, nice to see pictures like that. Thanks R

Andy, your missing the point a little bit. If you follow the link in the original post you will see there is an issue with shim washers and bolt lengths for the idler. This changes the alignment of the idler in relation to the roadwheels. R

I'm glad other people are getting wise to this issue. We ordered a replacement arm and a spare and they arrive soon. Will document in the original related thread. R

At work we used to have an issue with housekeeping when using chainsaws. The tools and spare chains for the saws were never readily accessible in a neat and clean storage while working in the bush. The typical plastic saw case just doesnt have enough space to hold everything one needs for real world operation for a chainsaw. The typical civvy plastic fuel containers were never that satisfactory as they just would not seal that well and containers of bar oil were forever leaking and oozing out in trucks. A number of years ago I came across these kits with two 5 litre fuel cans and a clamshell container in between all seated in a steel base tray. The cans have clips that hold them to the clamshell and the clamshell has tabs that locate it to the base. Winter or summer one now has a "brick" that accompanies each saw with everything one needs and it wont spill. In the picture you can just make out that the can on the left has a red painted lid and the other can has "bar oil" stencilled on it. We have one set of these for each saw we use and it is just like having all the "CES" with you. My guys love them. R

Welcome Rob, nice to see you here. Unlike myself, Rob is a real Canadian, I am merely a limey transplant! Hope you enjoy the chatter on here. Regards Robin

Glad you folks are getting some mileage out of this fix. My mate Gerry and I are off this coming Saturday to do the other side of said Ferret and to get the sucker going again. R

So Mr Extrogg, You posed the question about an unhooked flatrack. Would the solution be to create a link between the hook and the lift point on the rack with a multiple reeved chain, raise slightly to get it off the arse of the truck and then advance and lower at the same time finally setting it on the ground? That would enable you to re engage the flatrack and start over again. R

Can I please draw the attention of CVRT operators to page 20 of issue 74 of KIT! magazine from 2010 Here is a link if you have not already found it on the web. http://dev1.acms.mod.uk/armysafety/kit_mag.htm R

Thanks for all your thoughts gents, all very similar to what I was thinking. In the end, it was over priced for what it was. Engine ran very rough but listed as "runs well". Another example of an under used vehicle being valued way too high by an owner who doesn't understand the vehicle he owns. He had no clue about the fluid flywheel needing checking as an example. Sadly it will languish for another winter and not be used. As it was advertised on ebay, someone from far away could have bought something which was an absolute shed if they didn't go look at it. I drove 2 hours to see it. Great shame when people misrepresent what it is they are selling. I will keep tabs on it and see if I can help the guy out with some maintenance but I get the feeling he won't want to pay for any work. R

I can hear it now, "Honey I've found something, Bee prepared!" R

Last night I went to look at a sad Ferret. It would drive for maybe 30 seconds in any gear. Im told by the seller that he has "topped up the oil" and it now drives. I dont think he has the knowledge to do the fluid flywheel. Can anyone tell me what they think the addition of fluid has done to restore "drive"? The fact that it would not crawl meant we walked away from the purchase. R

I was reading the Porpoise sled thread recently and it struck me that somewhere I had seen something similiar but a darn sight more recently. My dim memory says that it was a photo in Soldier magazine that was where I might have seen it. Can anyone shed any more light on the subject? Robin

Thanks for the compliments gents. I do have a tendency to build to a "bullet proof" spec when making such items. It really is not any more work and makes for a reliable piece of kit. R

Nice to see all the work and care and money you are putting into it. Interesting RCEME connection. R

Even though the brakes had been left off they seemed to have stuck a bit and a few forward and backward movements freed them up, so it may have just been rusty drums. The trip was made at 15 kmh with comments being made through the back window by me. We set off in daylight but typical with this kind of year the light fades almost instantly and we did the rest of the trip in the dark. Contrary to myth, one can back a wheeled vehicle on an A bar but you have to know what you are doing. A steersman has to steer the dead vehicle and give direction to the pushing vehicle so that it follows and does not get all snarled up. Clear communication is required. Here is the frame in the shop at the end of the journey of 7 kilometers, some shifting did take place so a revised Mk 2 improved version will be in play when I move the other one on my own tommorow. I do have to say I'm well chuffed that it worked and worked so well. On reflection I would say that my spidey senses about the lifting points were sound as the angle downward would be quite severe and the loops are rear of the sloped surface and the A bars may have fouled the angle change and also the headlights are in the way. Robin

Things were checked over and transfer case and gear box in neutral and hooked up ready to roll. I called in trusted friend Charlie to drive my truck while I rode cowboy style in the bed of the truck watching how things reacted or moved. You will notice that the Ferret has been dry stored in an agricultural building and that is one of the reasons it had to move as we need the space quite apart from the fact I want to work on it. R

Well, I did have a few distractions today but did make good progress. Here is what the finished Mk 1 version looks like prior to being used. I did end up using the top loops as per Mr Ferretfixers comments but not as he described. I found that heavy wall 1 1/2" square tubing with a heavy wall fitted so snug into them. I made up a heavy angle and made an end plate with a hole in it to allow a securing bolt to pass through it. The reason for this is that I wanted the end plates to be able to stop against the loops on either side if there was latteral movement. I could have opted for unbolting the loops but chose not to, so the ends had to bolt on. I made angle clips to go over the sides of the front and they were welded on an angle to match the profile of how the front armour tapers. The large angle with the mounting points for the A bars had to be secured for both pulling and decleration when the ferret would want to push. I made the front clips that are secured by bolts with tabs on the inside so that they grip under the overhanging armour front plate. This holds the frame when the ferret pushes going down hill. The ratcheting binders allow infinite adjustment to the pressure but I had to deal with the interferance of them being in the same plane, so opted for a couple of wood blocks to sort that. I cant remember at what point this shot was taken but i'm thinking that things had to be adjusted a bit and re tightened. A coat of primer sure tidied things up nicely R

Dear Ferret Fixer, Thank you for your words of advice. I am well aware of the weakness of the tie down loops at the front lower corners. In fact the second Ferret, the one that is being traded has already had one of those broken, rewelded, and broken off again, so at the moment it is non existant. The design I am messing with, will make the point of attachment very secure. I have looked at the upper loops and am not comfortable making a set of spacers as you describe. I realy feel that those loops are not for exerting such large pressures on. For me living out here they look like that are made of "unobtainium" so I am reluctant to deface one or both of them. They may become part of the attachment points but it is where the forces get applied during the towing and shunting that concerns me. I want to make the point of attachment to the bars as far forward as I can get. Experience with wheeled vehicles thus far and A bars is the further forward they go the easier they follow. In my sleep last night I made the ironmongery twice over, so I will go in to work today on my holidays and see if I can convert REM sleep into some hardware. I am creeping up on the subject and by cunning and by guille I will hopefully succeed in catching the monkey! I am fully prepared to expose myself to the forum and be proven wrong on what I am attempting. For me this forum is such a brilliant way of bouncing ideas around and sharing the knowledge and the fun. Please don't stop giving me input. Regards Robin