Gordon_M

If they will match the price in the advertisement, I'm in :blush:

I thought it was TWO tanks ? Maybe an E-Bay purchase gone astray

Size or distance between centres of a bridge element then, bearer, cross-brace, side frame, or the like.

Diameter of bridge plate?

You did all that work on the inlet and didn't put a butterfly in there ? Who are you, and what have you done with the real Goslings ? :blush:

Easy. one hundred. One to hold the plug, the other ninety-nine to rotate the tank. ( Must go, wife is coming home ... )

It is a great advertisement ( seems disrespectful to call it an advert ... ) I think the autostropper would be something like T-Cut maybe?

Snowy images are all Third Service Command vehicles, Fort Indiantown Gap, also referred to as "The Gap" or "FTIG", Lebanon County, Pennsylvania, apparently. Gordon

... on this very subject; Health and Safety bunnies may find the odd point to comment on.

Rock 'n Roll, one of the three surviving Sno-Cats from the Transantarctic Expedition of the mid 1950's is being restored in Oregon at the Tucker plant where it was made. While it was in the UK ( at what was then the Chrysler plant in Kew I think ) it was fitted with a bunch of British equipment and gauges, including a Lucas gauge for the battery electrolyte temperature and a matching switch panel I've been asked to find them, functional or not, and I thought that if anyone would know where to get a set it would be somebody on here. Military connections ? well the project was staffed from Commonwealth Forces, and the Sno-Cat does have a script F Ford GPW tow hook on it. As incentive, have a look at the You Tube video of it moving again under its own power for the first time in fifty years or so; [video=youtube_share;ooaIcD09FfU]

Great, well done. Something for you to consider - if there was some catastrophic fault with it, which you hadn't detected, would you rather the competent friendly MOT chap found it, or you did, at midnight on a cold wet Sunday in crowded traffic mies from home? There is always value in getting another pair of eyes to give your toy a once over, and just think, soon if there is snow and ice you can go to work on four wheels.

My 1944 T-36 Snow Tractor, one of four known survivors, needs some bits and pieces associated with the SCR-187 radio which was original fitment, and where better to ask than here as my knowledge of radio equipment isn’t that great. My cab still has the T-36 radio socket mounting plate; … and I have an image of the socket sitting loose on another survivor, it is rectangular, with a screw on cap, and looks to be 2-pole from a poor interior shot which isn’t worth reproducing here; … hole centers 1 11/16” horizontally and 3 ¼” vertically. Anybody got one or know what it is? Sockets like this are not uncommon but all the ones I can find are square rather than rectangular. Finally, can anyone point me at the radio mounting bracket which would have mounted the SCR-187 to the top of this bracket, on the left side of the cab; There are a handful of images on my T-36 page here; http://www.gwim2.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t36.htm … showing survivors and how it looked originally. All help appreciated, any bits would need posting to me here in Scotland Gordon@Dodge.org.uk

No free play in the pedal, piston can't come right back so brakes come on with servo. You need one inch of free travel at the pedal with engine off, and it should stay there when the engine is running. If you have free play it might be the piston not returning fully anyway.

Well fielded on that last point Steve, that's exactly what I was thinking ... Have a good New Year when it comes.

I don't know Jules, not bought any for ten years, but don't think so. It's a thin black liquid rust stabiliser designed for rusty surfaces, but I tend to use it as a coating on stuff that has been phosphated originally after I've taken it back to bare metal, for example bolt heads and shanks that I have altered, or ordinary steel spanners that I've blasted and want to stop flash rusting. Chemically it is something like; Iron + Phosphoric Acid = Ferric / Ferrous / whatever phosphate. This is close enough, Halfords retail it I think; http://www.rust-cure.com/#!safety-data-sheet/cjek

It won't lift galvanising that is properly attached, however it may well lift anything that is loose, but then you would want that gone anyway.

Any product like Kure-Rust which is basically phosphoric acid and leaves a phosphate surface on it would be fine. I can't think of anything substantial I'd want to put on there that wouldn't risk washing off into the radiator.

I guess this comes under this title of "I might be stupid but I've bought this" Not at all. I think that gets awarded when you buy the third one before the first one is running right .... :cool2:

Nice little thing. Centre roller wheel on each side, no Notek lighting, maybe a pukka post-WW2 VW product ?

I'll bet with the engine running you have zero free play at the pedal. You need 1" free play there, and even then you can't be sure the piston in the master cylinder is coming right back past the return port. Effectively the engine is powering up the brakes because it thinks you have depressed the pedal.

Fit right in here. In fact we may have difficulty distinguishing you from the general masses. Any notable characteristics, perchance ?

Hmm, two things you really need to do, both important. 1. A by-the-book adjustment of the shoes at all six hubs. 2. A check of the free play in the master cylinder pushrod. The master cylinder piston needs to be able to come right back and when it does there should just be some rattle in the pushrod end - basically one inch of free travel at the pedal before it starts to move the piston. Bad things happen if you don't have free play there, and people do insist in taking all the free play out when trying to get "better' brakes.

Pics, Dan, need pics

I think we'll let you away with that. Heck of an engine for that size of frame, you could hold the engine steady and just spin the car round it. :blush: Of course if you were talking interesting machines that WW2 prevented the development of... http://bugatti100p.com

I have two words to say to you; Barrel Hoops :-\ The same basic forge and roll process that the blacksmith used to make barrel hoops from steel bar would also have worked for the steel tyres for wooden rims, and then to make the steel base for your solid tyres. I'm reasonably sure the basis for the ring will be steel of some kind, as cast iron, while very strong in compression, is lousy in tension, and this extends to many of the more exotic iron grades too.