Gordon_M

I'll plead lack of scale reference in the original photo m'lud :angel: It still looks like lifting or towing kit, but with 1/8" pins ( don't do metric .... ) won't be for anything much. Hatch, flange, or the like lifting?

First bit is surely the towbar attachment for the front bumper when it breaks down, second bit looks like something to stop it overrunning a towbar of some kind. Aluminium plates - no clue, but they look like they could fit hatches or mount filter / pump kit of some kind.

Commonly this would be to pressurise the tank ( modestly - a few psi only ) to purge out the last of the contents, or if it something that would degrade with air, to purge the air gap above the contents with inert Nitrogen. I'd advise leaving it alone, the stresses put into the tank from a 10 psig pressurisation can be quite alarming :wow:

I don't think the original castings would have been that great as regards quality of material, though externally they would have been nice enough when made. That's a nice job of fabrication. If you wanted a quantity of them made now you'd have several options; a quality pattern and just cast them, a block pattern for CNC finishing, even CNC cutting out of a billet. All wallet-related.

A hundred generations of spiders homeless at a stroke. Well done to the previous owner for keeping it warm and dry-ish for many moons too, and much better loaded up than towed - good decision. Counted the new grey hairs yet? :blush:

I used the prehistoric ones all the time, and very nice they were When the 6 volt units vanished from the shelves, you could get a 12 volt unit and shorten the bypass wire coil by about half, and it would then work very nicely on 6 volt. Electronics - hah !

Ah, the advantages of age ( there aren't that many, to be frank < oops - sorry for mentioning Frank ...>) Right, two things, since I remember the legacy Lucas units that these replaced; 1. 31 Earth 2. 49 Positive feed from fuse block 3. 49A Switched feed to flashers via indicator switch If this is how you have wired it, and it doesn't work, then you have either too much (unlikely) or too little wattage load on it. The originals would not start to flash until they had at least 21 watt draw and would not hit the correct flash rate till they had 42 watt draw. I'd guess you have just wired the dash indicator switch and didn't have enough wattage draw. Checked that lot and it still doesn't work? You have fried something - bin it.

1/16" seems about right I'd say. You'd need to be sure the axle end nut was pinned or locked so it wouldn't self-tighten though.

They fitted military lights front and back on the line, so the civilian light fitting holes were left blank - not stamped out. It isn't the addition of the military lights that suggests genuine - it's the blanks where the civilian lights haven't been punched.

Lights, front and back were different, for a start

Nice John, even looks like good tyres on it. ( dumped Federal into the WAI mix just for effect )

I expect there is a Chieftain stuck in the mud in front of him and he is about to tow it out backwards with the Merc van ...

Welcome Wingnutt If you need anything posted over from this side of the pond, ask away.

I'm a bit puzzled about the bad in there Terry ? The late Bob Moseley made it from actual drawings of a prototype made by General Motors Holden. He did intend to finish the cargo body and so on but never did because of his untimely death. Full story is on MLU; http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=8162&highlight=Phoenix&page=6

Good, that broken stud on the front wheel should be a standard size too so no big deal. I did have a look at a couple of aircraft wrecker versions, now long gone, and the thing that decided me again them was the state of the cabs. They looked fine, but the wooden framing was completely rotten. Hopefully yours has been in a much drier environment and will be as it should be. Bit of preventative wood treatment may be in order if you have a mind for it, to keep it nice given our wonderful UK winters.

Oh I think you are being a mite hard on yourself there, well done. A full set of bar treads will probably add to the cost, but that can wait till you have worn out the ones that are on there. What to do about a trailer though - big fuel trailer?

Another weekend tinkering with the SCR-187 stuff. As usual the harder you look the more bits you find wrong, or missing; Apart from the Russell Electric Co or Webster-Chicago BD-24 Dynamotor ( for the BC-224 Receiver ) and the BC-309 Radio Control box, which are the only substantial parts still missing, I have identified three bits still to find for the BC-191-F Transmitter too, one mounting and two cover plates. Cover plates first. I don't yet have the small detachable panel for the right hand side of the top plate, or the insulator panel for the main output terminal cover plate that goes on the right hand side panel next to it. Both would be about 8" long, with the top plate panel 4 or 5 inches wide and the output terminal panel 3" wide. BC-191-MISSING-PARTS.jpg (32.65 KiB) Viewed 1 time In addition to those two outer panels, I have now discovered that the main mounting plate for the output sockets is missing. I now have the output plugs and sockets, thanks to contributors on here, but I need this socket mounting plate - anyone have a spare? BC191_SOCKET_PLATE.jpg (157.1 KiB) Viewed 1 time The plan at the minute is to get the BC-224-F Receiver off for restoration as soon as I can find the remaining missing part, the BD-24 Dynamotor. Getting anything done with the BC-191-F is further down the line as I'm not sure what internal components are still missing - I'll tackle that when the Receiver is done and I have all the obvious bits of the Transmitter. Anyone have a BC-191 carcass they are never going to use?

All I remember is that the brake pedal setup contains a poppet valve or check valve of some kind, and this is prone to get dirty and fail to seal, giving long air rebuild time and constant leak down of the air system.

They made them to last ... I'll bet if you were that way inclined you could have changed the oil, put a coat of paint on the outside, and just run it.

Will have a look, ta

Anyone in the UK professionally / semi-professionally work on WW2 Signal Corp radio equipment? I'm getting close to having all the parts for my SCR-187 set ( for the T-36 ) and I'd like to get the receiver gone over professionally to get it working ( needs an input transformer and a connector replaced ) I'm also thinking about getting the transmitter section worked on, but since this is not really my thing i'd rather get it done by someone that knows what they are doing. Not looking to get it done free, but not wanting to spend a fortune either - any recommendations?

Ambulance or airport crash truck maybe? anything that needed to be ready to go, and had to go first turn of the key.

I can see much sheetmetal in your future, but it's all flat and it'll be fine when it is done.

If you can run it for five minutes and get up some air - blow the casing out as well as you can, though I appreciate that some of them are not the most accessible ....:cheesy:

Hmm, overheated? burnt out or just hot? It could be umpteen years of dust and no cleaning that caused it. A BCP motor should last a long time, and would be worth a rebuild - it might just need a clean, re-cut commutator, and some bearings. New far-eastern motors look nice, and work well - for a short period. :angel: