Gordon_M

Well, from what I remember, and it has been ages since I worked on one, they may have sealed the whole vehicle up to and including the radiator air outlet, so that may be some form of air outlet bladder with a relief on it to allow air to pass through the radiator. I do remember the driving position, and would hate to be in that one. I take it the whole thing was sealed maybe up to turret ring level, and cooling air was drawn it through the hatch and blown out via that bladder maybe ? Cold, wet, nasty, and about to get a very severe dose of salt water rust, poor thing.

If it is registered, legal, and not overlapping or overshadowing their property there is no case.

Change the condenser again, there are a LOT of bad condensers out there, even new out of the box. It is even typical that it is OK when cold but starts to malfunction when it warms up, so don't believe any test instruments unless you heat the condenser up first.

Thanks Niek If Dave gets those brackets back to his place we'll see what we can do. I think he needs to get that Diamond T back together first. I have one of those winders somewhere. Was keeping it for my one ton van, but since I'm putting a military screen in that I won't need it so Dave can have it. Trouble is finding it - just like you ... 8-)

Looking a tad better and quite at home :-D

The engine rebuilder is certainly equipped for the job. Gives the impression of a very professional job and that's a lot of engine to rebuild for that sum.

Keep going Degsy :-)

If you have an original in poor order, there would be no reason not to cut the centre out it and weld it into a Dodge WC half ton outer rim and ring at the right offset, should work. The difference is all in the centre plate with six holes and bevels, plus located on a different offset. Alternatively you could take some of the more common Dodge one ton six lug rims, cut, move and reweld the centre plate, and just fabricate / machine the bevels.

Sorry, no. I have both types here but got a use for them. I really just wanted to give you a handle on the sources. There is a 39-47 Dodge Group on Yahoo, and various Dodge Fora, though as I mentioned the rear duals weren't that common and just appeared on civilian trucks. I have no evidence that the dual rears were ever used on military trucks. Someone else did point out that they were probably used on the back of similar trucks from other manufacturers too, International, Chev, etc.

As I mentioned further up, the rim is the six lug Budd rim with offset and bevels for use as rear duals on a truck around the one ton class. They were the standard rear dual rim on the Dodge WD21 series one ton, 1941-47. The ordinary rim for that truck, when dual rears weren't required, looks pretty much the same except it doesn't have the locking bevels and has less offset. Neither type of rim is that common and the locking dual type is quite difficult to find. The Budd lock rings are standard, and will interchange with any Dodge half ton military WC or any Dodge one ton from 1939-47

Just a thought, but you might want to de-rig that gas detector tray while on public roads too - sort of thing the Traffic Bunnies would rightly be concerned about. :red:

Headlights ? ah yes. First, if you don't have good plugs and sockets for the bottoms of the lights, just wire straight past them, they are nothing but trouble. Second, the lights will only go together one way, so you can work it all out by trying everything. The only thing to watch for is not to damage the lenses, as pushing them into place and fitting the retainer ring is quite tricky. New bulbs are best - still available on e-bay.

You don't want to re-chrome that. Like nearly all the Dodge radiator top shell mascots that one is made from really low quality zinc alloy. It won't take the stripping and polishing necessary to do a good chrome job, and probably didn't look better than that when new. nearly all ? yes - wartime production materials included experiments with soy-based plastic and even lead, but since that 1940 unit was before the official war there was no strategic material limitation, hence things like the windscreen side-slides and locking knobs were chromed originally.

As with all the 1939 and 1940 trucks, everything is "the same but different" You could cut the top corner off an ambulance or Carryall door and put it on a pickup, I have done so, but the VC 3 door has the retainer strip for the board door liner on the top and one edge, plus the glass is one piece frameless - steel frames didn't arrive till half ton WC. It could be altered though, unlike the 1939 door which has a totally different lock mechanism

They would be just fine, with coloured bulbs, mounted somewhere that you could repair the holes easily and get wires to them, of course.

Top image on this page; http://www.gwim2.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/td20.htm ... note that the right headlight is the original 1939, identical to the VC military, but the left headlight has been replaced with a late 1940 T207 unit with the side mounted blackout pod. I wouldn't mount the later type of headlight, but the pod does look appropriate hung off the side like that. If you didn't like it then you could always repair the hole and go back to the original look.

Hello. don't know anyone that repros them, an original is probably the thing to go for. I use the Foto Ray 295's myself When my TD20 arrived it had one original headlight, and one early T207 headlight with the blackout light slung off the side of it. I thought that might be a good spot for an indicator?

You don't want them on top of the headlights. That VC 6 you saw with the lights on top had been fitted with a pair of 1940 Dodge civilian lights, with pods on top to allow the use of sealed beams, they won't look right on a military truck. On the rear, try to find a pair of DODGE script lights with the DODGE curved. The repro 1940 rear light pods have the DODGE script straight where it should be curved. I have enough VC parts here to allow me to fit that front axle - when I get it picked up, plus lights and hardware for the front of my 1940 panel.

Good stuff. I take it you will save that King Pin by welding it up and machining back down? I know you could make one but repairing the original would seem to be the thing to do?

Assuming that was the common method of loading the trailer, and looking at the height of the leading edge of the deck on the two images on the last page where the drawbar is down, you would really need two solid planks as loading ramps to roll the wheels up - it is too much of a step to lift, or bump up. Two boards on the back of the tender or stowed on the trailer then. It's possible they could be those boards across the trailer in front of and behind the aircraft wheels in one of those images as they would only have to be four or five feet long.

Do any of your original trailer images show any signs of planking or wedges lashed to the tow bar that would act as a ramp?

That's a bit clearer. It looks like they are loading it backwards from the front of the trailer, tow bar extended to use it as a ramp?

Nice How are the fuselage plans coming along?

More pics please:-)