Gordon_M

Taking a step back and having a look - there's nothing wrong with that, and nothing tricky either as it is an ordinary castellated nut locked with a split pin. It is just going to be a case of applying enough force. Given that you have a pile of these to do, I'd be hiring a small air or electric powered hydraulic pack with a torque multiplier and a socket that fitted as neatly as you can get. Probably not worth the hire cost for a single nut, but if you have dozens of them ... Best source for that gear is a company that makes and breaks pipe equipment flanges for petrochemical or offshore, like Hydratight or Destec. http://www.destec.co.uk/on-site/bolt-tensioning This would involve some expenditure but you'd save it back in time, effort, blood, and probably buying replacement nuts if you have a pile of them to do.

You have answered your own question there - if the DOD is blank on the original, leave the replacement blank. That was far enough into WW2 for them to be using twin and multiple unit packs, where trucks were built, knocked down again, and crated for assembly overseas. If there is no DOD on your plate this is what happened to yours - even if it never left the US - or did you re-import it? The other possibility, which really only applies to other truck types, is that the truck was supplied as a chassis cab to a specialist body manufacturer, where they would have the DOD stamped on their plate - doesn't really apply to a WC62 / 63 as they only came as the plain truck with or without winch. Gordon

Course I would Pete, but they'd probably throw me out anyway since I was born in Cheshire, might have to seek asylum.. Those Irwin things look the business, but according to the ad they only ship in US voltage :cool2: Personally I've found 3/4" or 1" square drives are the key - way too easy to break a 1/2" drive, even a good one.

Declare Independence ? ah, perhaps not then .... One genuine thought which might save you a lot of grief - first check it isn't left hand thread.

I've seen all those Lucas comments before, but they remain true ....:cool2: Worth a read.

That's as good as they ever were in service. The two supports under your brush guard are marginally higher than mine were, maybe one centimetre or so. That will be why your supports can't be absolutely straight. If you reduced those heights slightly you could straighten the rods again but it looks OK as it is.

Plugs out, but before putting the oil in, put in a bit of something absorbent and check for water / rust on top of each cylinder just in case

Got Luke's cover on my one ton Dodge now, fine job. Will be back for the end curtains soon.

Damp it down, good dust mask, if possible drill it outside in a nice stiff breeze ...

Don't forget it won't work without a set of four rear spacers, tyres and rims are not enough.

Bolster trucks originally came on 11.00 x 18 big single tyres with spacers on the rear hubs to level out the track - exactly the same setup as the DUKW. Personally if I had a set of 7.50 x 20 on a GMC that's what I'd keep - they never look 'right' on anything else.

That rope is going to be for some really obvious purpose. Here's my shot at it. It is for nothing more serious than getting up on that side of the engine. He could have climbed up there using the step with that rope in his left hand ....

Hmm clean it, tidy it up, fit wings and lights, paint it ( maybe straighten the hitch ) and throw some gas bottles on it. You'd have to be VERY sure that wasn't done by the army before you 'restore' it as an ordinary trailer. It is very well done, and I note it still has the original hitch type so might not be a civilian conversion at all.

Very nice. You can tell that isn't round here as it isn't raining ... When I look at the cab hood frame I can see the origins of the hoods found on the WW2 Command Cars. Gordon

Words like "unique", "irreplaceable" and "huge talent" are much over used, but not in this instance. Sad loss

As a first thought I'd take the rocker shaft off, make sure piston is down, then hit the top of the valve stem with a mallet against the spring action ( gently ... ) The valve might snap back into place and be worth a try at running it. If it doesn't nothing much lost.

Given the description, and the state of the originals, how about just turning up a new pair from forged steel rings? I'm sure that would be superior to making a pattern and casting a pair.

Can't really help unfortunately. I know Hanno gets swamped with stuff to do and registrations take for ever, but at least you can access and read. I'd try to get in touch with one of the Carrier bunnies on there and get them to post questions on your behalf, maybe?

Morning Bob, Do you actually want to make the gland, or re-pack it? The original packing was probably based on tarred rope or the like, and that would be the best solution. The Graphite packings we use now are best for limited rotation applications like valve stems and actuators, don't know how good they would be on an engine application. We went to Graphite as a packing material as we needed to fireproof the glands. In a fire situation they will move and leak but will not completely fail. If you need to make the gland itself I'd just contact a bronze foundry for a lump of stock bar. Admiralty bronze would be best, as the small percentage of Tin makes a difference to the machinability of it.

Regulator box ? I know that changing from positive to negative earth can kill the regulator over time. The contact materials are specifically set for either negative or positive. Running them the wrong way causes pickup transfer on the regulator box contacts.

Hydraulic jack oil for anything like that.

No idea, but one is and one isn't To be fair the glass is crystalline and identified as a consumable ( rather than recyclable ) abrasive so I'd guess recycling glass endlessly might be a problem too. I had a quick stare on Google and the professional / company fine for using sand seems to be about £50,000 these days; http://www.hse.gov.uk/press%5C2008/coinw01708.htm I had no idea that the prohibition ran back that far, though; Blasting of articles using sand containing free silica has been banned since 1950 and can lead to silicosis, which is progressive, irreversible and can continue to develop after exposure ceases. .... if it was seen as a health issue in 1950, when everyone smoked, had coal fires, and used leaded petrol, then I can only imagine it was seen as a particular hazard. Anyway, doing fine on Aluminium Oxide here, which is fine for blasting pretty much anything - except for the price.

Well since somebody else mentioned it - use of sand in a sandblaster is illegal in the UK and has been for a while. Basic problem is sand breaks down into a particle size that gives you silicosis, and a dust mask doesn't really help, as mentioned. I use aluminium oxide 60 grit plus a really good dust mask. It will recycle numerous times if sieved each time. It retails at just over £1 per kilo but transport can add 50% to that, or you can just go to Machine Mart and give them £2 per kilo. I've contacted a coating company locally with a view to getting crushed glass expendable grit for around the same £1 per kilo. Although 'expendable' the chap there said it would reuse once or twice. The advantage to me is that I should be able to pick it up in 25Kg bags as many as I want as often as I'm passing his place. The key to all this is a big compressor air source. Forget single phase, really needs to be three phase or diesel. Actual blast equipment is really cheap. Hodge Clemco is the best, but I just use a generic Chinese 10 gallon pressurised pot you can get from E-Bay or Amazon for around £110 ( or pay Machine Mart £225 for the same thing with a Clarke sticker ) I was blasting the drivers compartment of my T-36 today, got one side and one end done and primed. The little unit is fairly slow, but I bought it for some specific work, as on the T-36 I'll be able to blast the track frames, rollers, and idlers in place and that will save me having to split the main machine into three bits. I still might take the cab and loose ironwork to the professionals and just get it all back done in a weekend - would probably be cheaper if I factored in the time it would take me to do the bulk stuff.

Worth a try Roger. The British called the T110L a three ton truck, but the Americans called it a 'light duty three ton' The 'heavy duty three ton' truck was the VK / WK like Rick Jones VK62B bus or the Ashby's WK60.