Gordon_M

That image is pretty much the same as my 4lb US Kidde unit Adrian. I found one on e-bay US, with the original mounting bracket, for my T-36. I don't have a separate link to an image, but you can see it and the bracket, near the bottom of this thread; http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=256477 When you find one, there is a link somewhere on G503 to someone who has reproduced the Kidde decals too.

Very nice. Now all you need is an excuse to tow it back to Cathcart.

I'm not surprised they only made 71 of them at that price ...:-\

Morning Julian, we all know Dodges are better, but ... The common one was the Ford LAAT, Light Anti-Aircraft Tractor, I'm sure Nigel Watson lost one or two in that fire. as for joining MLU, just PM Hanno, who goes by the name of mcspool on here.

I'm remembering a photo back up thread as to what you started with - that's progress.

Thermostat and / or head gasket, but while you are checking, pull the radiator, turn it upside down, and give it a severe back-flush with a hose too.

Somewhere, in the deepest recess of my books and folders, there is, or was, a brochure for that Alvis - Berliet. Haven't seen it for years though.

Hmm 1st Army, 38th Signal Construction Battalion, Company C, Vehicle 15.

I'm sure I saw some scrap men with cutting gear going in there yesterday ....:-\

Nice, and under three figures, even allowing for delivery. Even if the one that was on there was right, it is just a tad past its best.

It's a bit of a cliche that they always look better in photographs, but that looks very nice indeed.

Absolute first thing is to find the actual chassis stamp, never mind the plate.

I think I'd drill and pin it, regardless - belt and braces ... and an extra belt :cool2:

It's looking very straight and clean Howard, not many WC53 do. I sent you some images of the rear window winder mechanisms, so if you are still short one let me know. I think I'm out of most of the Carryall-specific stuff now, though I did discover a pair of NOS front door winders too.

My secret weapon for this sort of thing is the rubber roof paint that B&Q do, or at least did, for flat roofed house problems. There is a thin, clear rubber primer, and when that cures a black rubber top coat. It is absolutely unkillable and has done Carryall roofs, Dodge screens and back windows, weasel tracks, and a load of other things. If you just want to ensure your roof is sealed the clear primer would do it. Two issues though; 1. It cures rather than dries, so the minute you open a can the clock is ticking and you really should use it up. Sticking the lid back on doesn't mean it will be usable if you open the can again six months later. 2. It if fiendishly expensive - see also (1) above :angel: Iain, never noticed you were in Aberdeenshire. I'm normally in Aberdeen city all week, but on holiday in sunny Falkirk at the minute. Added later, this stuff; http://www.diy.com/departments/isoflex-liquid-rubber-black-roof-sealant-21l/35463_BQ.prd

NO absolutely not !:mad: Any vehicle with track plates should never be driven straight across rail tracks, you should always take them at an angle. Tracked vehicle operators manuals normally specify this - Weasel ones certainly do. Flex in the track bands allows two plates to lock down over a bull head rail and bring proceedings to an abrupt halt.

That's a PLOMB 9989 from the Plomb 15A catalog, 1936 to 1941, catalog is here; http://bartlettstreet.com/toolcatalogs/ The box is right, but in 1942 they changed from PLOMB - LOS ANGELES , to PLOMB - USA, and they stayed that way through to 1948 when they changed to PROTO because of a trademark dispute with PLUMB. A PLOMB 9989A from the 19R catalog would be ideal for applications 1942-45, but the only difference would be the - USA instead of - LOS ANGELES on the lid. All these boxes are rare and expensive now. I have a smaller Plomb box and a pile of the plain Plomb and Plomb WF ( Wright Field contract ) tools made for USAAC / USAAF You will also find Plomb tools marked with PWA ( Pratt & Whitney Aircraft ) Ranger AT ( Fairchild Aviation ) plus various Navy and Naval Air Force variants.

There's an image of a USA numbered dental conversion here; https://www.med-dept.com/articles/ww2-us-army-ambulances-and-medical-related-vehicles/ ..... fair bit down the page though. Since it isn't a passenger vehicle it doesn't have a USA 20xxxx series number on it.

The only impressed AEC that comes to mind is a bus. The USAAF were given some impressed busses to ferry air crew and casualties between bases and hospitals. Might be one of those since it is USA 20xxxx and the 20 prefix normally denotes a personnel carrier of some kind. I think I saw that in Fred Crismon's US Military Wheeled Vehicles, but not sure.

There's an "other" Dodge place Tony? do tell me where? There were civilian and military remote reservoir kits. The civilian one was glass, so you could see how much was in it, but the military one was steel so it wouldn't get broken. Each led to a solid replacement cap for the standard cylinder. Brake spring pliers? I thought everyone had an original set - they aren't expensive.

It has taken 62 years to get to that state so it can wait a few weeks. Don't see you being around when it needs doing again though ... :angel:

Oh, lots of history Kevin - or a fair amount anyway. http://www.gwim2.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/vc3.htm Send me an e-mail to; Gordon@Dodge.org.uk please

I have a pile of information about them,and my old one in particular, if anyone has any questions.

Hi Kevin, is it my old one, May Seventh 1940? Gordon

Well, yes and no. I'd agree 11 out of 10 for making it, but if you have a look at the original casting it's clear that the radii were never perfect and the edges were never square. The original casting looks to have been spot-faced to a different depth on each side, and you can see the centre hole wasn't really drilled exactly in the centre. This new part is just a bit too good. The crew have put a huge amount of time and effort into this truck ( I think Dennis was up and running about page 100, Thor is now at page 215 ... ) and clearly have decided to leave original pitted surfaces on many components rather than go for perfect factory finishes. The down side is that a perfectly produced well finished new component is just that bit more obvious. Of course you could just throw it in a cement mixer with a bunch of steel scrap for an hour or two, then leave it outside in vinegar for a month, followed by a heavy grit blast, but the balance between new and old has to be managed by the restorers that are actually doing the job. Any comments on your logic for showing / hiding component age, chaps? Any idea if the radiator end stay rod mount is the same / similar?