B series Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 Hello, So bit of background on my Champ which I have dry stored for 20 years and never driven. 13 BF93 was sold in 1968 via the OSDD Ruddington sales, purchased by Oxford Agricultral Vehicles, and then sold in early 1969 to a Norfolk farmer who used it on a large farm as a run around, who then sold it to me 20 years ago. It has never been road registered or restored. It is not rusty, all electrics seem to function, but engine is not running due to fuel pump problem which will be sorted this week. It was until last week still rolling on the original Dunlop Trakgrip T29A tyres it was released with ! I have just fitted some nice Goodyear NDCC tyres which look period. It is a FFW vehicle and is fitted with B40 Mk 5A engine serial 63115. I have the following questions: a) Does anyone know if this would this be the original engine? b) It current is fitted with generator No1 Mk2 FV141545 which is spec for cargo vehicle, but it has a generator panel No2 M2/1 (FFW), there are no spare leads or disconnected plugs on the vehicle and it all looks complete as it left the army, will this combination work the charging system? c) What are the diffrences between a B40 Mk 5A cargo engine, and a Mk 5A FFW engine other than the generator? d) To correct this mismatch of parts if required, do Champ experts think it would be better / easier to find a FFW generator, or change to a No 1 Mk 2 or 2/1 Cargo generator panel ? Regards B Series Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 13 minutes ago, B series said: b) It current is fitted with generator No1 Mk2 FV141545 which is spec for cargo vehicle, but it has a generator panel No2 M2/1 (FFW), there are no spare leads or disconnected plugs on the vehicle and it all looks complete as it left the army, will this combination work the charging system? c) What are the diffrences between a B40 Mk 5A cargo engine, and a Mk 5A FFW engine other than the generator? d) To correct this mismatch of parts if required, do Champ experts think it would be better / easier to find a FFW generator, or change to a No 1 Mk 2 or 2/1 Cargo generator panel ? b) It seems that you can get away directly fitting a Gen Panel No.2 in place of the Gen Panel No.1 c) The FFW engine will be fitted with an engine oil feed to lubricate the gearbox in the Gen No.2 & a drain out to the sump. Not sure whether the Gen cradle may be different. d) I am not a Champ expert, but it would be very difficult to find either type of Gen Panel No.1. They are very rare & I suspect more troublesome. The reason for the greater abundance of Gen Panel No.2 was that large numbers were re-manufactured for Pigs in NI. Of course not all Pigs had Gen No.2 but on failure those that had Gen No.1 were fitted with Gen No.2 & matching panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally dugan Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 (edited) champ 13 BF 93 Date in to service 8/2/ 1956 struck off on 6/1/1967 sold at Ruddington on the 29/11/1968 lot number 628 and it was a Wednesday Edited April 28, 2020 by wally dugan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 Champs in that Sale No. 93 were selling for around £50, as were Humber Pigs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Herbert Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 I know that the two speed generators do give trouble occasionally but the one in my Champ FFW never did despite being my daily driver for three years. It was also quite handy that when slowing down in gear, when the generator changed down it was time for me to change down too. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally dugan Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 THE engine number is the original one fitted according to list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 10 hours ago, David Herbert said: I know that the two speed generators do give trouble occasionally The main cause of failure is the bearings packing up due to lack of lubrication. The generator gearbox needs to be primed with a quarter of a pint of engine oil if the engine has not been run 3 weeks or more. Many owners fail to do this & boast that they have as yet had no failure, but when failure comes messing around with the generator gearbox & clutch is a nightmare that requires special tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisg Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 I know of two occasions when the bolts holding on the pulley have sheared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peakrec Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 Sounds interesting topic as many vehicles run the generators in the military set up. May I ask do you have a photo of your Humber 1 Ton. Many thanks Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankdiver Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 The champ owners club will give you masses of information and help get it road registered .:austinchampownersclub.com They are a great club Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B series Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 Hello to all who have replied to my questions and sent me some useful information. This is the 1st time I have done a reply on HMVF, not sure if I am doing it correctly. Nice to know that even after a rebuild in March 63 at SOU 3, it has has retained the original engine, (Thanks Wally). The odometer still works and is showing 37,000 miles, so the engine might be OK when I can get it to fire up. Useful to know that the "cargo" generator can be used with the "FFW" electrical system, I guess either the army or Agricultral Vehicles(Oxford) Ltd fitted the "Cargo" generator in 1968 or prior. (Many thanks Clive). Thank for the disposal dates information, I have the Ruddington catalogue for 13 BF 93 Fitted a fuel pump rebuild kit today, but still not drawing fuel from tank, that's another job for tomorrow., together with fixing the radiator drain tap which is missing circlip, spring and washer etc. Best regards, B Series Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DINGODOUG Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 Having bought an ex-farm runaround I would advise you to flush the engine and radiator most thoroughly. Mine was quite literally full of muck and it had overheated badly. Check your compressions. The No 2 gen panel does not fit directly onto the No 1 panel hole spacings so it needs an adapter plate which you may already have? Also the lead from the No 2 panel to the electrical distribution box behind the dash is a different length and configuration which you may also have already if everything is fitted neatly in place. I currently have the problem of sourcing both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B series Posted May 29, 2020 Author Share Posted May 29, 2020 Hello all, I am sure I have seen on HMVF pictures of a opened up Austin Champ fuel tank that someone was restoring, but I cannot find them using the search feature, if anyone knows where they are located, please point me in the right direction. I have rebuilt the fuel pump, fitted NOS fuel pipe between pump and carb due to crack in original one, new fuel filter and seals, new tank filler seal, removed fuel pipes and blown through with airline, drained tank, but still not running due to two issues: a) Trying to find fittings to make a new pipe, due to pin hole, from the tank to 1st male/male connection. The parts book says thread is 0.6 Dia 19 TPI, which closely matches 3/8 BSP, but they are slightly small Dia than 3/8 BSP. It could be 5/8 UNF but then it would have to be 18 TPI. I think the parts book is incorrect, and the fittings are either 5/8 UNF 18 or maybe 1/4 BSP as the diameters are similar. Does anyone know thread type? b) The reason I would like to the see photos of the fuel tank internals is that the fuel pick up pipe in the tank on my vehicle is blocked with black tar like substance. If I can confirm that this pipe has just a simple open end in the tank, there is a possibility I can clear the pipe with compressed air and then clean out tank. That will not work if there is something on the tank end of the pick up pipe. Also I assuming there would be a 90 degree bend just inside the tank, would be nice to see internal pipe work. I was hoping not to have to remove fuel tank at this stage. Regards B series Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Is this the photo? http://hmvf.co.uk/topic/19828-the-restoration-of-austin-champ-1824/?do=findComment&comment=263633 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B series Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 Hello, Many thanks MatchFuzee for your assistance, I don,t know why I could not find that photo. The photo is not that clear, but it looks like the internal fuel pipe has an open end that would be near the tank bottom, and only one internal 90 degree bend. So I hope I will be able to clear my fuel pipe with compressed air and some wire from outside the tank. Otherwise I think the tank will have to be removed for a more in depth investigation. Many thanks B series Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peakrec Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 Some steel wire from an armoured cable works well, as soft. The pipe is open ended and when petrol is left for years it does leave black sticky deposits. You may be able to access the pipe opening by removing the drain plug. Wire is best as removes anything in the pipe, as compressed air will take the easiest path. Both will be a good combination. all the best Nigel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B series Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 Hello, Thank you Peakrec for your comments, black sticky deposits covers it, it is similar to tar. I like your suggestion of wire and access via the tank drain plug. At present I have used a piece of fuel pipe connected to the tank outlet which gives about 18 inches head above the tank, I have filled the pipe with petrol with the hope that over a few days it will soften the deposits in the tank pipe, so I can poke with wire or attack with a air pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B series Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 Hello, The Champ uses a Switchboard No1 Mk1, well mine does, but the ignition switch on mine is broken, but I have a spare switchboard but the starter motor lever does not self return and I suspected a broken return spring. So for those who have not ventured inside a switchboard No1 Mk 1. I was correct, the end of the return spring Part LV6/MT4/CB/5870/53 had broken off, I attempted to find a replacement spring, but hard to find the correct inside diameter and the correct direction of tension. So I re bent the end of the existing spring, which has worked well, but with a slight increase in spring tension due to shorter spring, but it is OK. I am really surprised how easy all the fixing come apart given that the vehicle 60 odd years old, compared to the fixings on my 2008 Land Rover 110 Station Wagon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peakrec Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 Good luck with the tank, it got my pig running on its fuel tank. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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