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Another J Type on the way !


Tomo.T

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On 4/22/2020 at 8:35 PM, nz2 said:

 

On 4/22/2020 at 8:35 PM, nz2 said:

 

 

That date of 1915 may not be a manufacturing date, but a date of lodging the patent.  Nice to see the photos of the lights ready for installation.

Doug

Quite right Doug, In the case of these lamps the patent number remains the same, but the year changes. See above.

 Incidentally this lamp's identity was finally confirmed by reference to the picture of yours, in the truck lamp thread. Thanks for that. Tomo.

Having gone through the collection I now find I was mistaken and all the dates are in fact 1915 and this does refer to the patent application. Doug is absolutely right on this. I should have known better as fire extinguishers have a similar trap for the unwary. Tomo

Edited by Tomo.T
Fessing up.
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12 minutes ago, andypugh said:

I wouldn't entirely exclude the possibility. 

That sounds quite encouraging, Thanks. I need to get to my spare lamp parts box and see what I have.    ( This may take a while in the present circumstances .) I will pm you .T

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Hi Tomo,

I'm not sure if it helps, but there is a wreck of one of these lanterns going through Ebay France on a regular basis.

It seems cheap at €15 obo, but that's plus shipping at €12, and the seller will only ship to France, and requires a bank transfer in payment.

Living in France, I can arrange to pay for it, receive it then ship it out to you, but I think it's starting to get a bit expensive by that point? Let me know what you think.

Best Regards,

Adrian

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/lanterne-britanique-WW2-Miller-British-WD-manque-verre-du-hublot-avant/193429465848?hash=item2d094b6af8:g:DGYAAOSwFuJdwFR9

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Edited by Le Prof
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Hello Prof, Thanks for the kind offer, if the badge had been any good, I would have gone for it. As it is, there is nothing else there I need unfortunately.  Isn't it amazing, after waiting years for one of these, two turn up in a week !  Actually I think I may have got the better of the two, but there maybe someone who wants to take it on. The price is certainly reasonable and there is little doubt that it once adorned the rear of a BEF lorry in France.

Tomo

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Further progress was made today and the remains of the old bezel were successfully removed by Stan with careful use of a blow lamp.

20200423_134251.thumb.jpg.a3664f75efce1612348ff11d9bea6d9c.jpg

The inside was cleaned up and more rust converter applied.

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I feel we now have a good sturdy base to build on, and with the right parts there could be nice lamp at the end of the tunnel.

20200423_134344.thumb.jpg.09c870b06c20484456e2f86bc3ea240b.jpg

I have included some pics of the bezel for Andy to see the construction details. 👍 There is a very tight rolled edge at the outer rim ( unwired ) which might provide a challenge!

20200423_135051.thumb.jpg.6e07ecc4d17d3bb29e409d03ec0bd858.jpg

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The three oval holes were for the brass locking wire clip,

which holds in the bullseye glass. The random round holes were a later 'improvement'.

Tomo.

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59 minutes ago, Tomo.T said:

I have included some pics of the bezel for Andy to see the construction details. 👍 There is a very tight rolled edge at the outer rim ( unwired ) which might provide a challenge!

Do you have a lathe? I can make the spinning former from a drawing relatively easily, if you want to do the spinning. 
Or I could probably do the spinning too, but not as quickly. 

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I've  been overtaken by events !  As I had to pick up essential supplies from the paintshop. I grasped  the opportunity for a good rummage and discovered untold riches in the spare  parts dept. A civilian Miller sidelamp already plundered for it's burner and tank, has now suffered the added indignity of losing it's badge and bezel to a higher cause. 

20200427_120606.thumb.jpg.85ca17610d5940890379870421d53033.jpg

Also an old 'Raydot' rear lamp donated it's ruby bullseye which fits quite well in the Miller bezel.

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The Raydot also supplied a porcelain burner, which is a sloppy fit in the Miller tank. ( work in progress) The tank was far worse than previously thought and Stan had a right job with it,  eventualy having to remove the entire base to re solder a leaking joint, which may explain the candle wax !

 

Stan took up the next  challenge and the blow lamp and carefully removed the bezel. It was cleaned up and replaced in the new lamp. Stan also went to the trouble of expertly soldering the cracks in the bezel from behind which has considerably improved the looks and the strength of it. 

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Also Stan had taken out the rivets from the back of the cowl and released the badge. This was done with an air drive burr gently poked into the gap. The badge is shown temporarily fitted to the original rivet ends still present in the new lamp. Once painted, I will attempt to tap over these heads to hold the badge in place. There should be just enough meat left for this job.

 

 

 

Edited by Tomo.T
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The paint department now took up the job and after a light application of filler in the pits, a coat of Bonda was also applied. 

20200427_165058.thumb.jpg.3635d87d02beb529700b75b1313e077e.jpg

This marks the limit of progress to date.

Andy, as you can see, we have solved the problem of the bezel. Thanks again for your kind offer. However I may need to talk about a possible future spinning job though. So you're not completely off the hook yet. 🙂

Special thanks to Stan for all the wizardry and special skills deployed on this job.

Tomo.

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Paraffin is not as readily available as it used to be, but a bit of perseverance produced the goods and the lamps were soon on parade and ready to go.

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The rear lamp burner is not really happy in it's new home and had to be slightly bodged to fit the larger hole in the tank. It didn't like the knackered old wick I presented it with either and flatly refused to wind it up far enough for a decent flame. This was the best it managed.

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And finally, ( having just about milked the thread to death,) a quick look at how it appeared  a week ago !

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I did get a bit involved with this project, but felt it was worth it . Although it has cost much, in terms of donor parts from other lamps, the end justified the means and to have the set together is a very pleasing thing. I hope it's been of interest and I'm sorry I can't include the fumey whiff of a hot oil lamp, you'll have to imagine that !

Tomo.

 

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19 minutes ago, Tomo.T said:

Paraffin is not as readily available as it used to be.

 

Rye Oils, Tomo.  I agree you can't get the stuff on the pump anymore.  I have been buying it from Rye Oils for a while now, plus my grease.  It pains me that I can't just buy it on the pump but I guess pre-pack and the B&Q mob killed all of that.  Plus you can use whats left over for mixing with a bit of oil for cleaning and engine. 🙂 

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1 minute ago, Scrunt & Farthing said:

Rye Oils, Tomo.  I agree you can't get the stuff on the pump anymore.  I have been buying it from Rye Oils for a while now, plus my grease.  It pains me that I can't just buy it on the pump but I guess pre-pack and the B&Q mob killed all of that.  Plus you can use whats left over for mixing with a bit of oil for cleaning and engine. 🙂 

We have plenty of use for paraffin on our 1916, 15 ton steam roller, so no problem there ! 

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30 minutes ago, Tomo.T said:

Paraffin is not as readily available as it used to be

You might be able to get "lamp oil" which might even be better. 

https://www.robertdyas.co.uk/clear-lamp-oil-1-litre

And I would expect barbecue lighter fluid to work. Possibly even white spirit. 

In order of preference for fire breathing: lamp oil, paraffin, barbecue fluid, white spirit. (Just don't swallow any of them).

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26 minutes ago, andypugh said:

You might be able to get "lamp oil" which might even be better. 

https://www.robertdyas.co.uk/clear-lamp-oil-1-litre

And I would expect barbecue lighter fluid to work. Possibly even white spirit. 

In order of preference for fire breathing: lamp oil, paraffin, barbecue fluid, white spirit. (Just don't swallow any of them).

The proper lamp oil smells that bit nicer, too.  When I finally lose the last of my faculties i probably wont care that much, but for now I do like the whiff of lamp oil.

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37 minutes ago, Scrunt & Farthing said:

The proper lamp oil smells that bit nicer, too.  When I finally lose the last of my faculties i probably wont care that much, but for now I do like the whiff of lamp oil.

Trouble is, proper lamp oil comes from Whales, I believe, the mammal that is, not the Country Wales.

Edited by Tomo.T
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  • 2 weeks later...

The lamp provided a welcome diversion, and I am now looking into the manufacture of a suitable box to contain the set. This would, I think have been necessary at the time, to provide a secure means of transporting the lamps when not fitted. I have a larger equipment box of 1917 which will provide the design if nothing else appears. Anyone seen an original ?

Meanwhile work has continued  on the cylinder barrels and I eventually ran out of jobs to do, which was a nice surprise !  The rather battered coat of Bonda was cleaned up and refreshed.

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And a first coat of Service Colour followed suit.

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The top end is now nearly ready, new valve springs will be fitted and the rings need gapping. Onwards and upwards. Tomo  

 

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Now then, something is bugging me about the cylinder liners and I would appreciate some wisdom from the bank of Knowledge and experience out there, please. I should add, this is a'T' head configuration without detachable heads and the liners are fitted from the base end.

When the liners were fitted, they were lightly pressed in and a ring of Loctite applied top and bottom. I asked for bronze pegs to be fitted at the base of the cylinders to provide some mechanical locking, which was not done. I pointed this out on collection and was assured that the chemical assistance would be sufficient.

Does the team think this is correct, or should we fit pegs ??? 

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Hi Tomo.

Put a rule across the OD of the liner and see if it will fit through the hole in the top of the crank case. If it is bigger than the hole (ours are), then no pegs are necessary.

Loctite on its own is probably enough as this is a low performance, low temperature engine. Loctite melts at around 150°C so the bottom end of the bore should never get that hot.

Steve  :)

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34 minutes ago, Old Bill said:

Hi Tomo.

Put a rule across the OD of the liner and see if it will fit through the hole in the top of the crank case. If it is bigger than the hole (ours are), then no pegs are necessary.

Loctite on its own is probably enough as this is a low performance, low temperature engine. Loctite melts at around 150°C so the bottom end of the bore should never get that hot.

Steve  :)

Hi Steve, I'm sure the crankcase mouths are bigger on mine, I will check on Monday. Also there is a small ammount of possible upwards movement which would shut off the combustion chamber. I take your point about low temp, low performance, but I'm concerned about pistons picking up etc.

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