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(Ferret) fuel tank woes

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I found rolling the tank around a field for 20 minutes seemed to give it a good coating. Did the same for the degreasing prior to coating - good exercise! Our tank was so bad it had to have the back side cut out to have the interior shot blasted.

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On 8/6/2018 at 8:45 PM, Peter Garwood said:

Thanks, I was hoping that would be the case.

Hi Peter

Not sure if your question was aimed at me, but yes, I unbolted the electrical stuff on the right side (looking towards the rear) to move it out of the way. Taking the tank out wasn't difficult. The mounting brackets all broke or were already broken, and needed fixing (vulcanised). Someone suggested drilling a hole and putting a bolt through them but didn't do that - might be a reasonable idea but you'd need to grind the head of the bolt down flat to fit (you'll figure out what I mean when you take the tank out).

I also considered an electrical fuel pump but in the end just left it with the mechanical pump, although I added a simple rubber bulb hand primer between the main fuel tank outlet and the fuel filter - not sure if that's really needed but I thought it's simple to do and might help prime the filter and reduce the load on the battery a bit. The only other bodge I applied was to replace the fuel filter (which was non-standard and ridiculously puny anyway) with a diesel truck fuel filter - wouldn't have done that if it had its original filter of course, but this ferret is a non-standard "chop job" in any event.

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Thanks, I now have the fuel tank very loose and have been able to bring it forward by around 4 inches and now it simply will not move any further forward despite clearly being loose. It will move back to original position. I am certain nothing remains attached to the tank. Can anyone advise what may be the problem?? What am I missing here??

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Thanks I have now used considerable tension and the tank is now out!! What do people use to recondition these tanks I have read that something called POR15 is good?

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I've had POR15 in my MUTT for 11 years now. I can see in the tank and the covering still appears fine. Having done the same in a Ferret tank, the best way I found to coat the tank was to roll it around a field for a while! Also had some stands set up to drain the excess afterwards. 

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On 8/19/2018 at 9:33 AM, Peter Garwood said:

Thanks I have now used considerable tension and the tank is now out!! What do people use to recondition these tanks I have read that something called POR15 is good?

I've not used it but those who have and those on the interweb will confirm that you must must must follow the instructions to the letter - and wear gloves - it doesn't wash off. 

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Just had a frantic hour getting the broken banjo bolt out of the fuel tank. On examination the threads could do with a recut. Would any of my learned friends know what tap size I need for this or should I just get a steel bolt and use that? If so what size bolt should I seek? Thanks as always for the great advice.

SE189492SMSM.JPG

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The manual says "BOLT, FLUID PASSAGE  BSP.F. , brass   3/8 in."    But this is greek to me . So I do not Know if this will give me the size of tap needed to clean up the threads. Any advice.? I presume BSP.F stands for: Parallel (straight) threads, British Standard Pipe Parallel thread (BSPP; originally also known as[1]British Standard Pipe Fitting thread/BSPF (Wiki).

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8 hours ago, Peter Garwood said:

The manual says "BOLT, FLUID PASSAGE  BSP.F. , brass   3/8 in."    But this is greek to me . So I do not Know if this will give me the size of tap needed to clean up the threads. Any advice.? I presume BSP.F stands for: Parallel (straight) threads, British Standard Pipe Parallel thread (BSPP; originally also known as[1]British Standard Pipe Fitting thread/BSPF (Wiki).

Peter,

Check the threads per inch on the bolt, should be 19 for 3/8" BSP. Here is a good source for taps and dies:

https://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-dies/BSP-taps-dies/3-8-x-19-tpi-bsp

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POR15 is good stuff but don't rush, take your time make sure that you follow the instructions, degrease and etch the tank properly this takes time and patients. Don't be tempted to open the tin of sealant until you are ready to use it, it starts to go off with contact to the air and resealing the tin doesn't stop it.

 

Jon

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Richard Farrant gave superb advice and I ordered from Tracytools  yesterday and the tap arrived this morning. Thanks to both. Burred thread now recut and fuel bolt goes through nicely. Thanks to all!

CROPSM.JPG

CROP1SM.JPG

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I’ve got a good spare fuel tank if you want it 

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The tank will just go through the turret  take the gun  and mount out . I  am 70 and pushed it through myself A good engine  hoist will lift a turret

Regards Laurence

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