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johann morris

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Everything posted by johann morris

  1. Thanks, we like it. I restored it several years ago and then put it to bed until it was tax free. While it was having it's little sleep we decided that it would be better with a full hard top, which is what I have been playing around at. Jon
  2. I was down in the workshop on Wednesday playing with another restoration project, and in a quite moment I had a ponder about the Panzer. I have actually only got the three vision ports in the upper hull to make and apart from the tracks and the front sprocket it's finished. Admittedly it need all needs taking apart and spraying and the tracks are going to be a real ordeal but it is so close. Does anyone know of a company that might be interested in Laser cutting my sprockets? Jon
  3. I haven't done anything to the tank since the last update and as for the tracks I am going to fabricate them. Although saying that I haven't been idle, I have diverted my attention to modifying another project, in the hope that doing something a little less complicated would reignite my enthusiasm. Jon
  4. In truth very slowly. I seem to have lost all my energy and drive, my joints hurt and I blame the Covid injection that I had on April the 1st. I have always been physically hard on my body, so I have the odd aches and pains but after the injection, every joint hurt and at 55 you should be able to get off the bog without pushing yourself off the seat. Thankfully it's calmed down now and I am only having problems with my left knee but I feel knackered. That said I have made some progress with the tank but I find myself making silly mistakes which has entailed doing things twice to get it right. Whinge over. As mentioned last time, I have been making the drivers vision telescope. It's quite a complex little item and it took me quite a long time to decide what does what and how it all works. The pictures that I have, at first glance, hold very little information but if you stare at them long enough it all becomes clear. Basically there's a main casting, of course mines a fabrication. The casting is attached to a top plate that slides into the location rails and is attached to the vision hole blanking block via a threaded bar. In the location rail there are two location holes, one positioned so that when the periscope is not required the blanking block covers the vision holes and one that aligns the periscope with the vision holes. To release the assembly, so that it can be slid one way or the other, you press the lever on the side of the casting in, this lowers a sprung loaded plunger. The assembly can then be slid across and the plunger will then locate into the relevant hole. Because our eyes are not the same distance apart, person to person, there is an adjuster that would allow the vision tubes to be adjusted to suit the user. This is attached to the lower part of the casting and contains a thumb screw attached to a threaded bar, one end is threaded with a left hand thread and the other with a right hand thread. If the thumb screw is turned one way the adjusters move apart, if turned in the opposite direction, the adjusters move closer and when the vision tubes are assembled into the casting, this adjusts the distance between the eye pieces. Attached to the front cover of the assembly, there is a split boss with a tightening screw. When the vision tubes are assembled into the casting there is a brow rest that fits into this split boss and the screw is there to lock, said rest, in place. The last items of note are the two curved plates on the inside of the front cover, these act as springs and they hold the vision tubes in place when they are assembled into the casting. That's all folks. Jon
  5. Oh well, their loss.
  6. When I asked the Worthing's about making bits for my British vehicles they told me that the bloke that worked for them and specialised in that field had left and that they were concentrating on American vehicles. As for the SCC2 canvas I seem to remember that Alan at soldier of fortune had some made to use for British tents or something, it might be worth asking him. Jon
  7. Evening All, I have now turned my attention to finishing the detail in the upper hull. I may of mentioned that I had never intended making the whole tank, hence my upside down approach to the project. As such I never really paid that much attention to the upper hull as it was only supposed to be a stand for the turret to sit on, consequently I have made a few errors that I have had to revisit, not major problems but still time consuming. I am currently working on the drivers vision area and how anyone could drive it with only this small area to see through is beyond me. There are three ways for the driver to see out, the first is with the visor open, the second is with the visor closed looking through a small slot and third through the two small holes above the visor. This is the only picture that I have of this area in an early clam shell AUSF C so this is what I am attempting to recreate. I also have this drawing of the visor area but there is not enough detail of the glass block retainer, so at present I am going to leave the glass block until I can find more information. The first two vision options are controlled by the levers to the left and right of the visor. To the right, is a lock which locks the visor closed. This unit contains a spring loaded plunger that locates into the main shaft, ensuring that the shaft stays in the desired position. To the left, is the lever for opening and closing the visor. This has three positions, closed, semi-open and open. This assembly contains a vertical sprung loaded plunger to ensure that the lever can't jump out of position. The third method of seeing the road ahead, is through the two small holes above the vision slot as mentioned above. To achieve this one has to use a periscope that is attached to a rail bolted to the roof of the upper hull. As yet I haven't made the periscope, that's the next job but I have made the attachment rails And the blanking block that covers the vision holes when the periscope is not required. That's all until next time. Jon
  8. Absolutely spiffing old chap, it makes one quite excited seeing it come together.. Lovely job!!! Jon
  9. To be honest Seamus, I don't think we are fooling anyone, our wives have us well sussed. Mine even asked me to describe the differences between the different machines that I "needed" for life to continue. Jon
  10. Evening John, I know It will be controversial but I am going to fabricate a set. I have thought about it long and hard, hence I have a plan of attack that will involve quite a bit of machining and lots of welding. My logic is that I have time but money is limited and I like the challenge. If there's a ping and I end up with lots of bits of bent metal then it's on to plan B. With that in mind, I have bought, nay invested, in another piece of history to ease the job of making the 1000+ bushes. Jon
  11. Nice to see that you sorted the problem. I know that there are those that will disagree but unless I have no option, I only use NGK plugs. Jon
  12. Seamus, That really looks fantastic, well done. Jon
  13. Morning, I am just reading the Ospray Panzer Iv book and it contains an after action report from Infantry Division Grossdeutschland, dated March 1943. The report states that "The turret of the T34 is no longer made from one piece but is assembled from individual parts. The armour of many tanks consists of a steel plate 1cm, a filling of 6cm cast iron and other material and again a 1cm steel plate". Has anyone come across this before, does anyone have more information? It seems a curious construction technique and must have added to the production time. Jon
  14. Morning Rick, Patience was a virgin, or that's what I tell my wife. Sometimes I wonder if I should just put it together, paint it and get it running but I know that if I do that and put the finishing parts on the to do they won't get done. Finishing all these little time consuming bits is a million times easier with the chassis and upper hull apart than having to keep climbing in and out. No, it's just got to be done I am afraid. The good news is that I have made a drawing of the drive sprockets, so I can get that off for some quotes. I have never been to the YWE but I have heard some very good reports so I am looking forward to a trip there. Thank you Sir you are too kind but be careful with the field Marshall bit, although "it's just a bit of fun", some people might get a bit steamed up over my self promotion above my pay grade. Jon
  15. Thanks BRDM and thanks again for the earlier assistance. If it ever gets finished, I have promised the Yorkshire war time experience it's first appearance. jon
  16. Nice of you to say so. Evening all, Well, I have finished the last two items, so apart from painting and final assembly, the turret is officially complete! One of the final items was a second internal handle for turning the turret by hand, I knew that there should have been one but I couldn't be sure what it looked like or where it went, until I rediscovered this picture on my pc. So it was out with a hammer, a piece of bar and some heat and it was time to hit some hot metal. The second item is a strange one. Situated on top of the turret was, in theory, a periscope (circled in red) for the gun sight but in actual fact it did nothing and was there as a decoy to drawing fire away from the real gun sight that was in the center of the mantlet (circled in blue). Obviously it served it's purpose as there are several pictures showing the results. As the commanders head was very close to this area it must have been a very uncomfortable, if not fatal experience. . I could have just left it off but what the hell. So it's on to projects anew, like finishing the rest of the final details on the chassis. Jon
  17. Evening All, If I decide to build another tank it would probably be a Panzer iv but that would probably be a project too far. I have been trying to finish the turret, all the little fiddly detail bits that I didn't have enough information for. There's a marker attached to the hull just below the turret ring to show when the turret is facing the front that needed adding. Whilst I had completed the wiring up to the slip ring in the base of the hull, I hadn't done anything about the wiring in the turret. The wires run from the slip ring up the leg of the commanders chair and into a square junction box attached to the turret ring behind the commanders seat back rest. Here they split, the power goes to the turret light and power socket while the wires for the intercoms continue into an adjoining junction box where the head phones and throat mike plug in. For the life of me I couldn't find a blanking plate for the larger box so I had to make one and the plugs in the comm's box are not the correct ones but they will do for now. I tried to buy the P clips to save time but I couldn't find the right sizes so I made a little bending jig and made my own. I ran a single wire just to illustrate where the wires run. The last item for now is a box that would contain cartridges for a flare gun, again it fits behind the commanders seat but on the opposite side to the junction boxes. The picture below is from the Tank Museums Panzer ll, it is clear from another picture of the same box that it has been bent forward and originally would have been in a more upright position as in the second picture. I have actually, very nearly finished the project in it's original form, that was to build a Panzer ll turret, just a two more items and I am done. Jon
  18. I use Por 15 and to date haven't experienced any problems, you just nee to follow the instructions and ensure that the inside of the tank is cleaned properly. Jon
  19. I have to whole heartedly concur with that sentiment old chap. Evening all, As far as Panzer production is concerned I have achieved very little, only finishing the turret gear guard. Other than that, it has been a very busy week one way or another, a week in which I decide that it was time that I increased my turning capacity, so I purchased a new toy. Jon
  20. That's why i don't argue. My son then decided that he wanted a diabetes cake, that's a two day job. Fresh from the oven Jon
  21. Evening All, I had quite a productive weekend making lots of little items for the linkage from the remote trigger in the turret gearbox to the MG, so now you can see how it operates. The other item was the cover that goes over the turret ring gear, well it's nearly finished but I was requested to make some biscuits by my dear wife and I know never to argue where the biscuit box is empty. Until next time thanks for looking. Jon
  22. Exactly, I keep telling myself that it doesn't matter but it does. I had a little bit of time to play today so I made the handle that is used to rotate the turret by hand. Only a little job but another one off of the list. Jon
  23. Evening All, Last night I posted pictures of this little cover that I had made. After I had posted my update it started gnawing away at me and by this morning I had decide that it wasn't good enough. I mean, how can any respectable Panzer commander go in to battle knowing that the cover for his little knob is the wrong shape. Below, next to a picture of an original, is my next attempt, which I hope is less offensive. The other items that I made today were the wooden grips for the trigger handle. That's all for now folks. Jon
  24. Thanks👍 , I know what It's like, I don't comment a lot but there's a lot of enjoyable content on this forum. So the next installment. I think that it's always the same, some of the smaller items take the longest to make and so it was with this little cover. Being made of 0.8 and 1.6mm thick steel and so small it took a lot of careful welding, brazing and grinding to get a result that was at least presentable. It's not exact replica of the original but it needed to suit my application. Todays job was to make the adjuster that fits on the side of the gearbox. The adjuster bolt lines up with the internal separate gear carrier and by putting pressure on this carrier, the final gear/ sprocket is pushed into the turret ring gear. If you remember when I started this gearbox I had thought that a spring would have the desired effect but after some playing around I decided that a fixed/ adjustable stop would be a better option. Jon
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