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Fuel pumps


Baxendale

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Hi, I have updated my SU petrol pump with an electronic kit to replace the contacts.

I now find that the pressure fromm the pump is so good it overcomes the needle valves in the float chambers.

 

Does anyone have any ideas on how I can reduce the pressure output from the pump?

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I just repleced the SU on my Gipsy with a solid state Toacan I bought via an e bay shop to date I am really pleased starts first touch of the key now wether hot or cold. Are you sure you have bought the correct spec pump ?? Also some pumps are designed to be on top of the tank others are designed to be much nearer the carb

 

regards TED

DSCF0134.jpg

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Hi Ted. I am aware that there are pull and push variants.

The SU pump is the original SU pump and placed near the carb on the front bulkhead, i.e. it pulls the fuel from the tank at the rear. It maybe, that the change to electronic points means that it is too good for the job!

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Hi. If I add in a T back to the tank as a bypass then there will be no back pressure to stop the pump working continuoiusly, nice lateral thinking though.

 

re where did I get the kits from, I will ask my brother and post a reply later on that.

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Hi. If I add in a T back to the tank as a bypass then there will be no back pressure to stop the pump working continuoiusly, nice lateral thinking though.

 

QUOTE]

 

If the pipe is small and/or long enough, there will be! It is a trick sometimes used when fuel evaporation is a problem. It allows a continuous flow of fuel through most of the system which carries heat away from the componants.

 

Trust me, it works!

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Hi. If I add in a T back to the tank as a bypass then there will be no back pressure to stop the pump working continuoiusly, nice lateral thinking though.

 

QUOTE]

 

If the pipe is small and/or long enough, there will be! It is a trick sometimes used when fuel evaporation is a problem. It allows a continuous flow of fuel through most of the system which carries heat away from the componants.

 

Trust me, it works!

 

Adrian, could you explain that in a bit more depth please (hard of hearing)

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Guest catweazle (Banned Member)
Hi. If I add in a T back to the tank as a bypass then there will be no back pressure to stop the pump working continuoiusly, nice lateral thinking though.

 

QUOTE]

 

If the pipe is small and/or long enough, there will be! It is a trick sometimes used when fuel evaporation is a problem. It allows a continuous flow of fuel through most of the system which carries heat away from the componants.

 

Trust me, it works!

I have been harping on about this for months all this old stuff we drive around in benefits from this listen to the man.:-D

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I have been harping on about this for months all this old stuff we drive around in benefits from this listen to the man.:-D

 

 

So if I done this on my landrover, then the problem of starting it when hot would/should go away. ?

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Guest catweazle (Banned Member)

 

 

So if I done this on my landrover, then the problem of starting it when hot would/should go away. ?

If its due to fuel vaporising then yes.

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I've been through this with my series 1 Land Rover .The pressure the needle and seat in the carby looks at ..has nothing to do with the points in the pump ..all the points do is switch the current on and off . The pressure is FULLY dependant on the diaphram spring tension..the spring that sits behind the diaphram ..More diaphram spring pressure = higher psi at the needle/seat. It's basic physics .

 

The SU pump was made in LP and HP versions .

 

Mike

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