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Morris C9/B


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Lots of small details bits have been done in the last couple of days. The main job has been to try to get it running. The distributor, which rotates anti-clockwise, had a clockwise rotor arm fitted. Hmm. This was replaced with the correct one and the timing was reset. Much turning over on the starter resulted in a tired battery, no firing and no fuel to the carb so the autovac is suspect. Never mind - this can be bypassed by connecting a gravity supply to the carb. Result - petrol pouring out of the carb onto the floor. Hmm. Possibly a stuck float valve, so off with the carb. What a pain of a job - the back nut is very difficult to get to with a spanner. The float and valve are OK, although there was no fibre washer on the valve. A washer was found on a Series 1 Land Rover valve so this was fitted and the carb was reassembled. Before refitting it I thought it wise to try filling it with fuel again. More floods. More stripping. The cause was the main jet carrier, which was loose and not sealing. Back on with the carb and more cussing as that nut hadn't got any easier to turn.

 

Much winding on the starter - no firing. And that was the end of play for the day. After retiring for tea I had a look at the manual and the sectional diagrams of the carb. The book refers to the main jet as being able to be lifted out after removing the main jet cap (no 24 in the diagram below). Hmm. I had removed the cap whilst the carb was stripped and I remember looking down a tube but I'm sure there wasn't any sign of any removable jet in there; all I remember seeing is an empty tube (no 25). So we have a mystery. Is the main jet missing? Am I wrong in what I recall seeing? Do I have to take the carb off again to answer this? I think I'll have to. Oh b*gger!

 

Does anybody have any ideas? Would the engine fire at all without a main jet? There's been absolutely no sign of ignition although there's a good spark in the right place. Also has anybody got a main jet that I could have if I need one?

Carb.jpg

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No ideas spring to mind as yet, but if its any consolation it took a feww days to get the C8 started, stripping down the carb 2 or 3 times, checking for blockages etc. We resorted to firing it up with easy start to get her running and from then on she started ok. Check the dizzy though, we fitted the C8 with an electronic kit from Frank Jolley, well worth it.

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Ivor,

 

I have been meaning to post the attached photo on here for sometime. It is of the C9/B that is now in the Firepower Museum. The photo was taken earlier though, in 1995 when it had just been refurbished by us at REME workshops, for the RA Rotunda Museum, after having stood outside for years it did not look very good. We got it in running order and repainted, the cab roof was a non-original fitting that we made to protect the cab area, as it was still destined to stand outside, until the Firepower Museum came into being. Then it went away to be worked on as the gun was not correct type.

C9B.jpg

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The Main jet does unscrew, if you look inside, there is a slotted 'top' this unscrews and the main jet drops out.

i'll take some photos of my spare carb.

 

Jules

 

Thanks Jules. I unscrewed the top bit that holds the jet in place, then I removed the carrier tube that the main jet sits in but I'm almost certain there was no main jet in there - it would, as you say, have dropped out as I was handling the carrier. All will be revealed tomorrow.

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Yes, the main jet is in your bottom photo. I've stripped the carb again this morning and the main jet is happily sitting there, where it should be. I must be going daft. Maybe I've done too much spraying of green paint.

 

Tomorrow I'll invest in a can of easy start and see what happens.

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Good news - it goes. What a relief! I didn't use easy start or anything - all I did was fit the air filter. Could that have been the cause of it not firing? Could the unrestricted airflow have reduced the inlet vacuum enough to prevent fuel being lifted (it's an updraught carb)?

 

With it being in a snug-fitting shed I almost killed myself with the fumes but I really didn't want to turn it off! I don't think it's charging but that's not a big concern just now.

 

The front bumper has gone back on and I've adjusted the front mudguards and done a final paint of the assembly. Tomorrow is the very final stage - fitting the lights and bonnet.

 

I did the final bit of stencilling on the ammo boxes this morning. I think they look the cat's pyjamas. Thanks to Tony of Axholme Signs for doing a brilliant job.

Ammo box 2.jpg

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Ahhh, the air filter on mine isnt fitted as yet, to start it you have to put a hand over the carb mouth to get a degree of restriction as the air filter is an oil bath type and it needs a certain degree of restriction to get it going, otherwise it just floods.

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Ahhh, the air filter on mine isnt fitted as yet, to start it you have to put a hand over the carb mouth to get a degree of restriction as the air filter is an oil bath type and it needs a certain degree of restriction to get it going, otherwise it just floods.

 

That's the answer then! It caused me some head scratching. I suppose you could remove the air filter as an anti-theft device? An oil bath isn't the kind of thing you could put in your pocket though!

 

I forgot to mention that I had some fun with the insurance company today. The very helpful lady who called me to check some details obviously wasn't an MV enthusiast as she had severe difficulty with the concept of the Morris not actually having doors or a windscreen. And then after we'd cleared that up I mentioned the Bofors gun. Oh dear, that caused some puzzlement.

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Today it was a case of knocking off a list of final jobs - refitting the refurbished steering wheel which appears to have been brown originally, probably to go with the original brown SCC no.2 paint. I remembered to fill the long-drained transmission, axles and swivels with phenomenally treacly straight 140 grade oil, then I fitted my newly acquired and correct for the vehicle Rubbolite no.5 tail light - bought on ebay last week after months of looking. It cost me £21 which I don't think is too bad for a new old stock part.

The headlights, sidelights and indicators went onto the front bumper, a very large new battery was fitted to replace the Mini one I've been using, and brackets were fitted to hold it in place. All the lights work but the indicator unit is u/s. It's a standard 2-prong thing like they fitted to most BL cars in the 70s so I've got a few tucked away amongst my Range Rover spares. The bonnet was fitted and there it was - finished. Well, almost. There's still a few little things to tidy up in the morning, and then it's definitely coming out of its shed for the first time since October when we built it around the truck. The insurance runs from tomorrow so who knows, it might just venture further than the farm lane if it behaves itself. Watch this space ...

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Many thanks for your good wishes Energumen. They seem to have worked.

 

The daily hard graft, averaging 10 hours per day since January, has produced a result. This morning the C9/B came back to life and nosed out of its shed into the gentle sunlight of a lovely spring day.

 

OK, enough poetic cr*p. It actually lurched out of its shed because I’m not used to the clutch but you get the picture …

 

Driver input is, to say the least, intensive; my wimpy arms can barely turn the wheel. I drove it around the lawn a bit to get the feel of things. What I didn’t realise is that, even starting off in second gear, the torque of the engine was ripping up the grass behind me. Dohh! Should have had it in 4WD.

 

There was a brief period of anguish (more cussing) as I lost drive completely. The clutch was only biting at the very top so I thought it might have rubbed off any rust on the flywheel and started slipping like crazy so I adjusted it – still no drive. Then I remembered that I hadn’t fastened up the web strap that holds the PTO lever in place. Fixed! When the PTO is engaged it puts the transfer box into neutral and the strap is there because there must be something wrong with the detent that holds the PTO lever out of engagement so the PTO kicks in and drive is lost. Phew! And the clutch engagement is much better for being adjusted.

 

If you’re in the vicinity of Ronaldsway Airport tomorrow afternoon, call in at the museum and you’ll see the C9/B. I wonder what Airport Security will make of it?

 

So here it is. Enjoy. I’m having a beer to celebrate.

C9B 1.jpg

C9B 2.jpg

C9B 3.jpg

C9B 4.jpg

C9B 5.jpg

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Just had a beer to join you well done. I remenber that sone kids got into mine and knocked in the winch drive just as I was about to drive off a terible noise stopped me just as well I had the winch break on. Has your PTO got the small flap and bar running down and make sure it is fully set. Well done SIR

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Fantastic result, looks the bees knees. If its any consolation, ours has had not run for 2 days, to much head scratching. Turns out it was due to a blockage in the fuel line from a cork seal from the reserve tank disintegrating. Nice one.

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Guest catweazle (Banned Member)

Well done Ivor i have just read the lot.i have one concern about your use of silicone brake fluid,i have found that ordinary brake fluid absorbs moisture but tends to stay distributed we have found the moisture in silicone tends to fall to the lowest point,ie wheel cyls,just an observation.cw:-D

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Well done Ivor i have just read the lot.i have one concern about your use of silicone brake fluid,i have found that ordinary brake fluid absorbs moisture but tends to stay distributed we have found the moisture in silicone tends to fall to the lowest point,ie wheel cyls,just an observation.cw:-D

 

and another problem is longer pedal travel, which Lockheed also commented on when they issued a statement about the use of silicone.

 

Anyway, Ivor, I have enjoyed reading your posts, having been involved in one of these C9/B Morris's before. Well done.

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