Jump to content

Hello from Vancouver, USA


Recommended Posts

Hi:

 

A couple weeks ago I ran across a pic of a Scammell Explorer, and thought "what a ugly, impractical, heavy fuel hog"......I want one! Well common sense won over. I know how time consuming and $$ eating these kind of projects can be. I restored a 1941 Dodge WC-12 many years ago, when there was an old army truck per square mile of farm land. Parts were not too hard to come by. (the original chassis/cab purchase was $60.00). Scamell's in northwest USA... not a chance, and I would end up with the whole house to myself and having to cook my own meals, and laundry. Vetoed by higher authority..

 

But something in the works is a scratch built 1/10 scale model RC version... lots of sketches scaling up the 1/48 scale dwgs found online.

 

Is there a model builders forum I haven't here, or where should one get started

 

thx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yo Dude,

 

While I can understand that pulling up outside the house with a full size Scammell Explorer could unsettle the women folk it might be possible if you introduce the idea gradually.

 

May I suggest you start with one of these......small enough to wear on a key ring. Just leave it lying around the house.

.

7c8c_1_sbl.jpg

.

After a few weeks do the same with this one..... at 3" long just a bit bigger.

.

661.jpg

.

Getting the idea ? Next, drive this one around the living room.

.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=_xHs82ALbDw&feature=related

.

After a couple of months of this conditioning process turning up with a full sized, snorting, Scammell won't even raise an eyebrow. Try it Dude ! It works every time ! (in the extremely unlikely circumstance that this ploy doesn't work I have the 'phone number of an excellent marriage guidance counselor in Vancouver)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did some looky-loo at the toys...no articulation..and expensive

 

The Dinky 661 asking price on ebay $162.00 usd

 

Thats enuff to put a quarter tank of fuel in a real one!! Or buy Tamiya axles and wheels and tires for scratchbuilt rc

 

Garage space is an issue for a real one.....2 cars, motorcycle, a battlebot, two oxy propane artillery pieces: 155mm and 20mm gatling (scratchbuilt simulators but VERY LOUD)

 

Off to hobby-land..................

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Garage space is an issue for a real one.........

 

Hang on, Latteman, 6x6 has confused you with that last pic - it is in fact a photo of an early full size version with hand operated crane, and what you see in the background is not a box but a pre-fab garage, so garage space problem solved :banana::banana::banana::banana:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If that's the case, it probably gets about 200mpg of petrol, and IF it gets stuck, you can lift it out by hand and take it home in the lunchbucket!

 

EspressoDude..Espresso only, no foo-foo frappa-crappa latte swill for me.

 

Picked up a 1/10 scale front axle today for $38.00, got it apart, mic'd for rear axle housing fabrication.. Sample of spur gears for rear walking beam $3.00

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dude

wellcome to the site

 

as gritineye sed uv got taste but i will warn u bulilding a model exeplorer will only get u more addicted so just to help u along abit here is a working model of a scammell pioneer Miniture Scammell Truck

 

and from personal exeperance with dealing with objecting family members when it comes to buying exeplores .... sod them thell get over it i cant say when but they will

 

nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Questions about Scammell Explorer rear leaf spring attachment to the frame.

 

The front of the spring has a rolled eye that is bolted to an fixed "shackle" or link. This locates the spring and axle relative to the frame.

 

Most other leaf spring vehicles have a pivoting link on the rear.

(1) Does the rear link pivot?

(2) Or does the leaf spring slide along the cast iron shoe bolted in the middle of the rear link, and the the lower bolt keep the spring from hopping out of the link?

 

Also, frame cross section appears to be about 4" x 10" in the photos.

(3) Is this close? or is it ? x ?

 

Guesstimates and assumptions are made from the 1:48 scale drawings available on the previous mentioned site with the Hi-quality model; then trying to scale other dementions from photos. My model won't be as accurate, but will be a powered RC model.

 

Rear axle housing with diff. is mostly done, gears work. Fabrication was way easier to make the rear housing like the front housing. Barrel shaped instead of a round bottom pot. Walking beam housings are mostly done awaiting spur gears and final fit of bearing pockets. Parts are 1:10 scale RC model parts from Tamiya(diff) and Traxxis(spurs) Ball bearings are 5 x 11 x 4 mm at about 1.50usd each.

Edited by Espressodude
can't spell...coffee hasn't kicked in yet
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK gang, here is the latest status on the model Scammell Explorer project. The frame is temporary angle and will be replaced with some on hand channel and flatbar to complete boxing along the center.

 

The rear gearboxes work and the diffies are functional.

 

MODEL12LR.JPG

 

MODEL13LR.JPG

 

MODEL15LR.JPG

 

MODEL16LR.JPG

 

MODEL17LR.JPG

 

MODEL18LR.JPG

 

next phase is the front suspension and locating links that extend to the rear. Are the front springs pinned to the axle or do the just sit in the pockets and slide a little?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Last couple days of fabrication has the front axle spring hangers fabricated and attached to the axle. Also attached to the front axle are the radius arms. I have found several pictures that show this attachment and I replicated this with a ring of eight 2mm socket head screws. Not exact model/copy, but the appearance is similar.

 

The radius arms at this point are way overlength and the termination at the aft end is an unknown. The only image I have is the Explorer on it's side with a copper standing in front of the transfer case. I have read about a phosphor bronze ball / socket arrangement also. At the aft end of the radius arms appears to come into a box beam shape. Does this enclose the driveline at this point? With a U-joint inside the box similar to really old Fords that had enclosed drivelines as a thrust tube that ended on the back of the tranny?

 

Pictures or manual shots would be very helpful at this point.

 

Thanks for your help gang!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:coffee:

thanks for the pdf.

 

I see the ball (35T206) that the whole front world revolves around, sandwiched between two square plates, 35T208 & 35T209. These plates look like they are bolted to the larger plate 35T25 using the inner set of holes. Does 35T25 bolt to the frame using the outer 4 holes?

 

 

I may cheat somewhat on this assembly and not bother creating 1/10 scale British Whitworth 0.0372" x 46.5tpi threads and save that time for the rear mechanical braking system!:rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure those tyres have come off a big Russian KRAZ......

 

At some stage you are just going to have to bite the bullet and make a 1/10 scale tea pot to dangle off the front tow hook :cool2:

 

Excellent craftsmanship there Edude. Look forward to seeing regular updates :tup::

 

No sign of the rear diff oil cooler yet - an essential item!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just happen to have this pic, can't imagine why!

 

It amazes me that all the stress and forces created by the front axle and steering are held by those four small bolts and one front spring pin. the tube X member can be seen in PDF 2

 

The wheelbase looks a bit long to me, imagine another wheel between middle and front with all four equaly spaced, to look about right.

 

Front axle c/l to rear axle c/l is 11'6"

2003_1211engine-change0026.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yep, that's a good catch on the w/b. I was working from frame length scaled from a drawing of 18'3" I then ended up locating the rear axle too far aft resulting in too long of wheel base. Time to get the ruler and drill out and shift the rear axle forward. Thankfully frame rail stock is about $1.50 per ft so I can re-do and have some $ left for the teapot.

 

Found a 1/2" tubing compression fitting that uses an almost spherical ring that will work for a first try at a ball joint. And it was in the spare/scrap bin! 1/2" scale = 5" dia tube inside the ball, about 7+" sphere dia, and the r/c model ball bearings fit inside the tube!!!

 

Also working on a transmission mount.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
Hi:

 

A couple weeks ago I ran across a pic of a Scammell Explorer, and thought "what a ugly, impractical, heavy fuel hog"......I want one! Well common sense won over. I know how time consuming and $$ eating these kind of projects can be. I restored a 1941 Dodge WC-12 many years ago, when there was an old army truck per square mile of farm land. Parts were not too hard to come by. (the original chassis/cab purchase was $60.00). Scamell's in northwest USA... not a chance, and I would end up with the whole house to myself and having to cook my own meals, and laundry. Vetoed by higher authority..

 

But something in the works is a scratch built 1/10 scale model RC version... lots of sketches scaling up the 1/48 scale dwgs found online.

 

Is there a model builders forum I haven't here, or where should one get started

 

thx

 

If you think that the Explorer is ugly......... you should see the Pioneer, ignore the looks, its a fabulous piece of british built truck. I have driven them, and lots of U.S. built trucks.. trust me, it will always get you there and back, and with lots of ROOM in the cab. Welcome to the forum. :trustme:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...