Stormin Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 Bit more work on the truck over the last couple of weekends. Some of you may have noticed the air tanks previously held in with cable ties. This was because someone had cut throught the lower brakets for securing them to the chassis. So time to make some more and rivet them in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 A point that had been bothering me for some time was the fuel tank. It seemed to be hitting the body side at the front end and sat too low at the rear. Also the securing straps at the rear were a bit of a bodge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 We modified the tank bracket to drop the front edge of the tank down away from the body and I made new threaded rods from 1/2 bright round. Next it was time to take a look at the cab body work. The lower cab sides have been dented, presumably from lying on the ground. The offside panel also had a poor brazed repair to the lower edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 Removing the side panels also meant removing the back panel. The back panel doen't need any work, but I noticed to bolts missing from the centre support bracket and no corresponding holes in the cab panel. Getting home yesterday I read Centi521's blog on the Swiss ward restoration and it immediately hit me that my panels were wrong. Compare the photo below with my side panel above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Has someone put a GMC cab on your WLF perhaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 I can only assume that the cab panels fitted to my vehicle are from a GMC 353 soft cab or simlilar truck hence the straight bottom line. Perhaps someone else will better be able to identify them. My panels will now be modified extensive repair was required to the offside anyway and some panel beating on the nearside. At least it explains why the fuel tank was hitting the body. I initially thought the replacement fuel tank had been made incorrectly, but measuring against the other side original tank yielded no measurable differences. then I thought the support bracket was wrong so modified that. Now thanks to a post on here I finally realise the bodywork is not correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42 chevy Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Norman; I thought the open cabs fitted on the GMC, Studabaker , FWD and Ward were all the same. I know the Diamond T open cab is unique to that truck. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 Norman;I thought the open cabs fitted on the GMC, Studabaker , FWD and Ward were all the same. I know the Diamond T open cab is unique to that truck. John So I was led to believe. But it now seems I've identified a few minor differences. Shouldn't be too much work to modify the side panels though and the rear simply needs two 5/8" holes drilling in. I also think my floor panels may be missing the holes for the winch selector rods but I'll have to check on that next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Hi Norman! Bit more work on the truck over the last couple of weekends.Some of you may have noticed the air tanks previously held in with cable ties. This was because someone had cut throught the lower brakets for securing them to the chassis. So time to make some more and rivet them in place. How did you do the riveting as the chassis frame looks as if you did them hot? How did you back them up? I must admit that we tend to replace loose rivets with bolts as that is an authorised repair procedure. However, it is nice to do them properly. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 Hi Norman! How did you do the riveting as the chassis frame looks as if you did them hot? How did you back them up? I must admit that we tend to replace loose rivets with bolts as that is an authorised repair procedure. However, it is nice to do them properly. Steve Yes Steve they were done hot, warmed insitu with the oxy-propane torch. Didn't fancy trying to manouvre hot rivets through the bracket and chassis with tongs. Just used a large piece of round copper bar over the round head, no recess and not too much distortion. The outside is just hammered flat into a countersunk hole in the chassis and finished flush with a grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 They look good. It's nice to do them right! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 Normin;Hope all is well, I know life is differant now with a newborn, :-) my son is almost 12 years old. I have not even finished my Diamond T and I went and bought a series 2 Ward. It just jumped out and said 'buy me". Anyways, did you rebuild your front brake chambers (I know you did the rears). Those front chambers look alot differant from the rears. Can you get diaphrams for them. John Gott Hi John. Can't seem to reply to you by private message. I haven't touched the front chambers. They don't operate with a diaphragm more like a piston with a rubber seal similar to a piston ring I believe. Anyway I've had all the air connected up and running and there are no leaks from the front chambers and they operate smoothly. I may strip them down in the future to inspect the bores though. Look forward to seeing pictures of your Ward and any updates on the Diamond T. Progress has been slow on my Ward over the winter. Wanting to blast and paint the cab but not getting the weather at the moment. All the best with the new project. Norman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42 chevy Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Norman; The weather has not been cooperating here (very cold and we just got more snow yesterday (8 inches). I am in the middle of changing out the upper torque arms. Getting those pins out is giving me a hard time, but I will get them out. Iw ill post pictures of the Ward on a new post. John Gott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 (edited) Well I've not produced any updates for a while. With the price of scrap being so favourable there was only one thing to do. Take the gas axe to the Ward La France! Edited August 2, 2010 by Stormin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42 chevy Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 I assume that is your "old' wrecker frame. John G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 I assume that is your "old' wrecker frame. John G No actually it is the one I intend to restore. The next set of pictures show just how bad the rot was in the main frame rails. They were worn very thin around the middle. Some of the cross members were very thin and the nuts holding the winch onto the frame were nearly corroded away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 I did after twelve moths of searching manage two find two lengths of 6"x3" Rolled Steel Channel to repair the frame rails. The rear body is now back together and sat back on the truck awaiting strip down of mechanicals then blasting and painting. I've also been busy with the cab panels. Bottom section of one door panel replaced due to corrosion. All panels blasted and painted. Windscreen frame wire brushed and painted. Just trying to sort out the seat mounting frames and winch selector levers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 Now a few questions for those who own of have extensive knowledge of Ward La France M1A1s. Firstly the simple one. What type of seal should be fitted between the bottom of the windscreen frame and the bulkhead? There are obvious holes in the top rail of the bulkhead, just not sure if it should be a webbing type seal like on the bonnet edges or a rubber affair. Next the more complicate question. I have two levers that mount below the seats for selection of winch/crane drives. I'm assuming the two levers I have are correct. One would seem to mount with the pivot below the floor level and the other with the pivot above. My question is do these simply fit direct to the floor? Are there any brackets or stiffeners? Any photographs of the area would be a great help, probably make it clearer than an explanation. I've looked at lots of photo's from others restorations and modifications and I'm still none the wiser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42 chevy Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 Normin; First the wrecker frame. I thougth you had already rebuilt that last year when you removed it from the truck. The cab panels look good and I am glad you figured out the "mystery" of the front cab fitment by the gas tank(s). About he levers, the 2 Wards I have operarted, I seem to remember they just came thru the seat frame and wer attached to teh truck frame crossmember. Maybe TooTall Mike can chime in on that. Does the ORD 9 offer any help with a skematic? Looking Good John G It is to bloody hot over here to work outside, :nut:so I will enjoy my air condiitoned comfort of my home and look at your pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markheliops Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 Hi Norman. Great thread so far. The strip in between the windscreen and bulk head is a rubber strip. Ref the two levers (crane/rear winch and front winch lever). They are attached to a bracket mounted to and under the cab. I am up the farm Saturday so shall grab you a pic. Markheliops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 Normin;First the wrecker frame. I thougth you had already rebuilt that last year when you removed it from the truck. The cab panels look good and I am glad you figured out the "mystery" of the front cab fitment by the gas tank(s). About he levers, the 2 Wards I have operarted, I seem to remember they just came thru the seat frame and wer attached to teh truck frame crossmember. Maybe TooTall Mike can chime in on that. Does the ORD 9 offer any help with a skematic? Looking Good John G It is to bloody hot over here to work outside, :nut:so I will enjoy my air condiitoned comfort of my home and look at your pictures. The part of the rear bed rebuilt last year was just the lighter top frame with integral toolboxes. That was when we discovered the extensive corrosion to the main crane frame rails. It was then a wait of twelve months before I could find the obsolete steel section to make a good repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 Hi Norman. Great thread so far. The strip in between the windscreen and bulk head is a rubber strip. Ref the two levers (crane/rear winch and front winch lever). They are attached to a bracket mounted to and under the cab. I am up the farm Saturday so shall grab you a pic. Markheliops Thanks Mark. I thought just mounting them to the floor would be too weak and some sort of bracket or stiffener must be involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markheliops Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Now a few questions for those who own of have extensive knowledge of Ward La France M1A1s.Next the more complicate question. I have two levers that mount below the seats for selection of winch/crane drives. I'm assuming the two levers I have are correct. One would seem to mount with the pivot below the floor level and the other with the pivot above. My question is do these simply fit direct to the floor? Are there any brackets or stiffeners? Any photographs of the area would be a great help, probably make it clearer than an explanation. I've looked at lots of photo's from others restorations and modifications and I'm still none the wiser. Hi Norman Pic of the bracket you asked about - sorry about the quality - mobile phone and it's under the cab. Hope it helps. Markheliops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Thanks Mark! That more or less confirms my assumptions. One lever pivoted under floor and one above. Do the brackets then sit directly above each other, sandwiching the floor plate. Don't suppose you have a picture showing the slots in the floor from above. My floor panel only has one large slot but I suspect it is a GMC CCKW floor panel meant for a single winch lever. My seat riser also has no slot in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supertrack Posted August 15, 2010 Share Posted August 15, 2010 A picture come form an WARD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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