flyingfleasteve Posted February 4, 2022 Share Posted February 4, 2022 Gents looking at my photos more closely I believe your right, it looks to be a MOV frame. As suggested, no built in cast bash plate on this frame so not a MAF frame….. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 6, 2022 Author Share Posted February 6, 2022 I managed to find a dry part of today to take some pix of the finished bike. Ron 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 Stunning Ron! Love the colour! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 Ron, I managed to get a few hours on the Velo this afternoon finally fitted the anti wet sumping valve! This appears the original colour of mine…..found it on the underside of the petrol tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 It looks like mine Steve. Goose turd green by moonlight!! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 I was just thinking the same Ron, your colour appears very similar indeed. Now that I have done a ‘dry’ fit with most of the newly fabricated parts I have stripped all the bits back off ready for prepping and priming, the front wheel is now off too, ready for a new tyre. Although the bike will be fully restored in the fullness of time I want to get it to roadworthy status this season, so it may remain multi coloured for a short while. This will enable me to do some shake down miles and to ascertain if the engine or gearbox need addition work. It also gives me the opportunity to round up the last of the missing items. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 8, 2022 Author Share Posted February 8, 2022 Good idea Steve to get a few miles before a final strip. Veloce must have had a real aversion to Lucas! Even the battery is EXIDE. We did some research and hunting down pictures and Arnaud made a great job of a dummy. I have two more on order with him. The correct horn to look out for is a Clearhooters HF320 and even better with a MILLER lighthouse medallion badge. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 8, 2022 Author Share Posted February 8, 2022 PS. The tank transfers used on the WD bikes are the smaller one that are listed for the rear mudguard. https://classictransfers.co.uk/product/velocette-6571-89x30mm/ Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 So with a little bit of downtime to tend to non military motorcycle projects I finally picked up the spanner’s and started work on the Velo again. More orginal paint exposed on the wheels. Most of the backend has been rebuilt, stripped and primed. It’s now starting to go back together rather nicely too! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 Most rear end components now in place and fitting well. I have a sneaking suspicion my battery straps straps are too long! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted April 1, 2022 Author Share Posted April 1, 2022 Those Velo battery straps are a silly annoying idea! And they hide up the nice Exide logo😖 Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted April 2, 2022 Share Posted April 2, 2022 Totally agreed Ron! I assume the battery/battery box sits directly on the carrier with nothing between them? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted April 2, 2022 Author Share Posted April 2, 2022 Yes the battery tray should have two flat spigots pocking out and down for those slots in the clamps. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted April 19, 2022 Share Posted April 19, 2022 A little more progress over the long weekend. I replaced the Miller light switch as I had a crack in my original, the headlamp is now complete and Dynamo in. unfortunately before the wheels can go back on both the front and back bearings need attention/replacing. The rear bearings came out without to much hassle, however, for the life of me I cannot get the front bearings or spindle out. Has anyone any experience with this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted April 19, 2022 Author Share Posted April 19, 2022 (edited) Steve the front bearings should be the Timkin taper type. To remove the roller cones, take off the brake plate and undo the adjusting nut and it's lock nut and then the dust cover on the left side. Now tap the spindle out with a copper hammer towards the "BRAKE DRUM SIDE" which will bring out the right roller cone, the left cone can then be pushed out. If the bearings clean up ok, then just repack and assemble the opposite way. If they need replacing, you will have to punch out the outer cups. Ron Edited April 19, 2022 by Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted April 19, 2022 Share Posted April 19, 2022 Thanks Ron. I have tried and tried the bearing will not pop out….I would have thought it would of come out fairly easily…..maybe a bigger hammer. 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted April 19, 2022 Author Share Posted April 19, 2022 You must only drive it into the brake drum side, maybe the dust shield is holding it, or perhaps they have been replaced with ball races? Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 Thanks Ron. Another inspection tonight I think. all dust seals are off, I have a suspicion the bearings have been replaced with ball race alternatives……watch this space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 So the front bearings look taper type in the front wheel but they still will not budge 🤕 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 To me I would say the bearings have been fitted the wrong way around. Normally any wheel bearing has the cup fitted in the wheel first and cones from the outside, cannot see how they can be adjust going by these photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted April 21, 2022 Author Share Posted April 21, 2022 I was going to say exactly the same thing. You will have to hit harder Steve. Stupid as it is!! It's how Matchless did it. I've never come across anything more silly. You adjust the bearings by screwing in a retainer against the outer cup. Too far and you have to start over gain by drifting the outer cups back....Doh!! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 For Matchless, when the bearings are unusually tight, I just run a hone through the hub, there's no need for them to be that tight, but once adjusted, (just a little play to be felt at the wheel rim) they will give a lifetime service, seen more destroyed by standing still, and water or moisture gone into them, and turning rusty over the years, than by actual use. Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 Thanks Gents. A bigger hammer it is. Both bearings are packed in so tight it’s pinching the spindle which is hardly turning. It looks as if the rear wheel bearings are easier to replace, I can see there is a screwed retainer / adjuster plate to remove first, I am guessing a special tool is required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted April 22, 2022 Author Share Posted April 22, 2022 You can probably make something by drilling three holes in a plate and tack welding three suitable size old bolts/screws as pegs. I'm away till Sunday with my WM20 to a small DR rally in Droitwich. Cheers Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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