1944 Royal Enfield WD/CO 350 Clutch

[MJL75]

Hi all,

I have dismantled the clutch mechanism today and have found it all to be very oily, I'm guessing that due to the oil feeder into the crankcase for the chain this is unavoidable so my question is, is this supposed to be a wet clutch assembly?

Thanks,

Martin

[bikermoss]

Hello Martin,

So far as I am aware the 'Royal Enfield Co' should have oil in the primary casing where your clutch is, if not this explains why I have been trying to stop the oil I put into the casing of my Enfield from pouring out past one of the most initially impressive thick rubber which turns out to be one of the most useless seals 🤬 devised by man . It sits in the lid and goes around the backplate despite using sealers, extra bands of rubber cut from inner tubes, checking the cover for dents etc etc. 

May I use this question to ask if anyone has a sure fire way of sealing these casings...? ?

Hope this helps Chris M (and me)

[Chris Hall]

Originally they were an oil bath chain case but as said, they just leak and I never got a good seal. Some have changed to a dry clutch and sealed chain but this brings its own issues.

 

if you do go for a sealed chain, they are slightly wider so you need to ensure there is space between the chain and the case or else you will soon ware a groove in it. You can often see these grooves and now you know why. You may even need to add spacers/shims or remove metal from original spacers to obtain enough clearance. Probably worth the effort in the long run, especially if you intend to use it regularly.

[Sipke]

Bit of an old topic, but close to my question and apparently a new one for me.

My clutch when driven for a while starts to slip.

Also the clutch comes rather fast free after barely using the clutch lever.

What could be the problem with that and what kind of oil does it need?

Have thought about it to leave the oil for what is is and just use a chain spray.

And looking at the pictures, it looks that i am missing the inner part of the clutch.

The "star" and the rubber blocks.

Can someone help me with this?

Thanks a lot.

[rewdco]

You seem to have a clutch unit without the typical cush drive. I've also got one here, see picture below. On the right you can see the cush drive version, as fitted to the WD/CO. I don't know where the non-cash drive version comes from. Albion gearboxes were used on all sorts of machinery, maybe this is a non-Enfield clutch? Anyway, when I compare both clutches, apart from the cush drive, they are identical. They should be interchangeable. Unless it's got less plates than the Enfield cush drive version. That could explain the fact that your clutch is slipping...?

As for the fact that the clutch disengages as soon as you've pulled the lever a couple of millimeters, are you sure that the "clutch operating pad" (pos. 20) and the operating rod have the correct length? Have you tried to unscrew the "clutch operating lever adjusting screw and nut" (pos. 22)? 

[Sipke]

As far as i know it should indeed be the cush version.

But looking at the manual from Hitchcock it has the non cush version.

I will measure the length of the rods.

I adjusted the lever.

Had some slack in the cable, but as soon as the cable was tight it came free.

I ordered some new springs and plates.

The cush and non cush is all 3 plates 

If that doesn't i will try to find another complete clutch.

Hitchcock sells a complete unit, but.. the non cush variant.

So that is a bit of a surprise.

I will see what i can find.

 

[79x100]

A clutch without cush-drive would probably belong to a machine fitted with a crankshaft shock absorber. Without either would be harsh and detrimental to the gearbox.

[Sipke]

Best to fit one with a cush drive?

[Chris Hall]

I would try and source a good Cush drive clutch but they are hard to find now so may take a while. The non Cush unit you have now is from a much later machine, I’ve seen lots of them over the years.

[Sipke]

I will see if i can find one, But this will have to do for now.  Any options for a good oil for the primary?

[Chris Hall]

Engine oil is as good as any, you can see on some bikes, people tried to fit sealed chains but they are too wide and cut through the chain case. What ever you do, it will likely still leak.

[Sipke]

I use straight 50 oil. So that should do it? So no special oil for a wet clutch.

Had it in the primary with no leaks. Maybe a drop or so.

I used a small film of blue sillocone on both sides of the rubber seal.

[79x100]

In my opinion, 50w is too thick for a primary chaincase and will cause contamination and slip. 30w from the lawnmower shop would be better. It doesn't have to be particularly high specification and just enough for the chain to dip in and drip some mist onto the bearing (which is only operating when the clutch is withdrawn).

[Sipke]

Well, it didn't take to long to find one. Hitchcock has these backplates with cushdrive. So i ordered on there and after cleanup they are not to bad. So if anyone is looking for one, they have them still in stock. I also found a complete and good cushdrive clutch at Stuart Bray, so that is also on it's way in case the one i have now with the parts from the non cushdrive is not that great in use.