Sipke

That should be for your high and low beam. The easiest way to stop the engine at this point is to put your hand on the air intake of the carburettor. You need to have the following parts for the valve lifter; https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/3551?qty=1&continue_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com%2Fpartsbook-pages%2F926 https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/3787?qty=1&continue_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com%2Fpartsbook-pages%2F926 https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/18040?qty=1&continue_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com%2Fpartsbook-pages%2F926 https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/4706?qty=1&continue_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com%2Fpartsbook-pages%2F909 https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/12268?qty=1&continue_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com%2Fpartsbook-pages%2F910

Thanks Ron. At the moment i have a regulator from Beck. Dutch company. It was allready fitted when i bought the bike. https://www.beckelektronika.nl/Lucas.html#L if this one dies somtime i will have a look at the DVR2 I will take a look into the led bulbs as soon as i have the correct fitting. The rear light is a repro Mt221 that is allready converted to LED. For the looks i like the E3 dynamo better due to Originality, but with the current setup the 60 watt seems to be the better choice at the moment.

Hi all. At the moment i have a 60 Watt E3LM fitted on my WDCO. I was thinking to get back to an original 40 watt E3HM. Some say the 60 watt is better for normal driving and charging. 6 volt system, ectronic regulator, 35 watt BPF headlight (needs to be changed sometime to original) and a to LED modified rear light with 2 6 volt 6Ah sealed battery's. Thanks, Sipke

Stuart has a pair for sale at the moment with some other WDCo parts https://www.stuart-bray-motorcycles.co.uk/parts/other-ww2-bike-spares/royal-enfield-27408-handlebar-lugs/

Well, it didn't take to long to find one. Hitchcock has these backplates with cushdrive. So i ordered on there and after cleanup they are not to bad. So if anyone is looking for one, they have them still in stock. I also found a complete and good cushdrive clutch at Stuart Bray, so that is also on it's way in case the one i have now with the parts from the non cushdrive is not that great in use.

I use straight 50 oil. So that should do it? So no special oil for a wet clutch. Had it in the primary with no leaks. Maybe a drop or so. I used a small film of blue sillocone on both sides of the rubber seal.

I will see if i can find one, But this will have to do for now. Any options for a good oil for the primary?

Best to fit one with a cush drive?

As far as i know it should indeed be the cush version. But looking at the manual from Hitchcock it has the non cush version. I will measure the length of the rods. I adjusted the lever. Had some slack in the cable, but as soon as the cable was tight it came free. I ordered some new springs and plates. The cush and non cush is all 3 plates If that doesn't i will try to find another complete clutch. Hitchcock sells a complete unit, but.. the non cush variant. So that is a bit of a surprise. I will see what i can find.

Bit of an old topic, but close to my question and apparently a new one for me. My clutch when driven for a while starts to slip. Also the clutch comes rather fast free after barely using the clutch lever. What could be the problem with that and what kind of oil does it need? Have thought about it to leave the oil for what is is and just use a chain spray. And looking at the pictures, it looks that i am missing the inner part of the clutch. The "star" and the rubber blocks. Can someone help me with this? Thanks a lot.

Well, i got her done. I am really pleased with how it turned out. It ran rather ritch as the sparkplug was darker as the night. After about 7 miles it just quit running. The previous owner had a 170 mainjet installed instead of a 130 what it should be. So took the carburetor all apart and replaced most of the internal parts. Runs like a dream now. Time to have some fun on the road.

Beautifull sign Welbike

For completing my '44 RE WDCO i am looking for a tool roll and a correct tyrepump. Need to put my tools somewhere. Does anyone has some sort of an idea wher i could buy this? A nice replica of the items is fine by me. Best regards, Sipke

Hi Lex Yes the top one is how it is at the moment. The blue one was how i bought it. Not a terrible color blue, but it was never this way so i painted it how it would have been as it left the factory in those days. The difference is that from the factory it would be spray painted, but i handpainted it. I just like the handpainted looks more than spraypainted, but that is personally.

Hi. My name is Sipke and living in the northern part of the Netherlands. Collecting ww2 militaria for about 20 years. Mainly commonwealth. The next step was to own a ww2 vehicle and it had to be a Royal Enfield. After a rather small search the lead came from a good friend of mine on this RE. Had some picures and all looked ok. Numbers where correct. Went over to have al look at it and checking it all out. The engine was from the same contract as the frame was. Contract number C/S 1546 was stamped into the engine. Duplicate number is the same as on the frame, so they should be together since it left the factory for the civvi market. Could well be the original engine from 1944 but who knows... So after a good inspection all looked as a sound bike and i was the new owner. i didn't really like the color so after i did it get it to run correctly (terrible dirty carburetor) i took it all apart and gave it a new color. Some parts where not correct or straigt, so these were made by REWDCO. The carrier has been straightened out, new battery carrier and a beautiful pillion seat. Great craftmanship i have to say. With a bit of luck it will be done next week. Best regards, Sipke