Jump to content

45 ton rogers (fruehauf) resto/reconstruction

Recommended Posts

purchased my rogers a couple of years ago from the Shopland collection near Avon mouth, figured my 980 was a really rough example that was parked under a tree so why not have a trailer the same lol. don't have any info on the trailer's service life over than it was used post war by the british army and quickly got sold in to civi hands. it worked for pounds in southampton and was worked dam hard!! various people owned it in preservation but nothing really got touched on it. this is definitely one of them probably should have found a better one but the price was write and well it's a challenge. 

first 3 pics are as i 1st seen it 3 years ago and didn't take me long to say yes.  


2 or 3 months ago started dismantling the dolly/turntable assembly. removed the wheel stations as complete assemblies are easier to dismantle ounce separated from the main turntable. had to make a puller to remove the hubs as the break linings were stuck to the drums.  


hub off and luckily they were rammed full of grease so wheel bearings are perfect. the trunnion pivots were not seized but not far off it, brass bushes are ok so just clean the grease holes, paint and re fit.


breaking down wheels luckily none were rusty so they all came apart with ease which makes for a nice change.


starting on 2nd unit.


removing break drum backing plate


both units completely stripped mostly cleaning and paint required some machining work required but generally not to bad. 


have already done a load of machining and other jobs so will add a few more posts over next few days to bring this project up to present day real soon.


regards sam


  • Like 8
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

this was the start of the endless task off machining and fabricating the various worn, broken and missining parts just on the dolly. started with the dolly hand break as this front plate (pic 1) was gone completely and the rear support plate on the back side (pic 2) was worn out. simple enough to make and luckily a friends trailer is close to hand to take measurements. 


next i sorted out the coil spring mounts which bolt to the under side of the main dolly frame to house the 4 suspension (coil) springs. the main pins them selves were necked around the heads slightly and the threads for the retaining nut had stripped when i removed the nuts so easier to re new. 


pins were welded in to the housing originally as you can't get to them to stop them from turning when the housing is bolted to the dolly frame. 


vast improvement!


new cast steel pintle eye housing for the A frame, the original had deformed and wasn't really suitable to go again so new one cast, machined and waiting to be welded to new A frame when i get to it.


also cast new steel alloy eye and retaining nut as original eye had multiple inserts welded into the eye to keep it going.  


complete assembl.


machining one of the spring retaining pins (T16 steel was used).

new 1/2" thick top plate being positioned onto dolly frame, the original was bent like a banana and the king pin hole had been welded up and machined before. also after needle gunning the original plate there was to much corrosion to really save it. took a good day to remove the old plate due to various welds being hidden behind other plates etc.  


welding under way all ark welded as original with a single root and single cap weld. used 1 & 1/2 boxes of 2.5 mm welding rods to do all the welding on the dolly. on average a 12" rod was putting down about a 3" - 4" run with 2 passes just to go around the out side as in pic below. 


internal stitch welds as original these were a single root with a double cap same as original welds. 


new 1/2" doubler plate for king pin the original was 1/2" thick x 1 foot square with a single seam weld but over time that had bowed with the main top plate so decided to upgrade it by quadrupling it in size but keeping it 1/2" thick. went down the root of riveting it in with 26 3/4" rivets which will greatly increase the rigidity of it all and hopefully prevent the problem the original had from rearing it's ugly head. (marking out new doubler.)    


tack welded the new doubler plate into position and drilled the whole lot under the radial drill. the whole lump was then flipped over to counter sink the holes on the top side.


welding more new plate work on as the old plate was removed to get at welds which are behind it holding the top plate to the main frame. trust me cutting it up was a night mare!


hot off the press doubler riveted it just got to grind the excess metal down flush then onto the horizontal borer to machine the king pin bore and true up the A frame mounts. as they are very badly worn and will need bushing or something. 


will bring you all right up to date in next day or 2, stay safe every one.

regards sam

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

and to come right up to date,

put the dolly up on the horizontal borer to drill and bore out the king pin hole which is 5 1/2" dia to take a 1/4" thick aluminum bronze bearing to accept the 5" dia king pin. when i took it apart there was no bearing at all and the old bore had been nickel welded and machined then worn out again. so hopefully this will be the last time this trailer will need any major work for a long time. 


in the process of sourcing some aluminum bronze at the moment and some T16 steel to make a new king pin and retaining nut. also need to re bore the holes for the A frame pins but i'll need to turn the dolly the other way up to do that, bit of a cock up on my part but hay ho. probably wont be touching this for a week or 2 but will have fuel tanks for the diamond so will be back to that very soon.

regards sam 

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, Zero-Five-Two said:

That's some very heavy metalwork going on there, but you've obviously got the kit and the skills to deal with it.  Looking very good.

i re build riveted boilers for traction and railway engines and do some heavy machining so i am fortunate to be geared up for a project like this, get a buzz off it turning rough to smooth. but same time what your doing with your tanker with all that tin work is incredible! any thing less than 5 mm thick i just hate but different skill sets for different levels of projects. been following your AEC tanker from the start and she is a credit to all your hard work.

best regards sam    

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought there was a fire box in one of your posts, If a friends trailer is close that means photos of a brace of M19 transporters is possible to look forward to.

Link to post
Share on other sites


this is the truck/trailer John drove it from bristol to Arnham and all the way back last year on the 30 core trip, just over 1000 miles absolutely loved it. hoping to take this set and mine to normandy for 80th.1259052940_IMG_5560(1).thumb.JPG.80e6a8cb5b5ca30e96881f2cd9e1dddc.JPG

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

As far as I can remember the last 50 ton Dyson I saw was in the 1967 at Blyth Dry Docks and Shipbuilding when it closed down. I think they had two. A DT and trailer doing what they do best, even better if it was carrying a Churchill. As designed. Thanks for posting.

Edited by john1950
Link to post
Share on other sites

In the brake line scematic of the Crane/Rogers 40/45 ton trailer two air filters are shown one on each line. I cannot find any maintainance instructions for these, but by now I would think they will need cleaning. Brake line filters and silencers have in the past given me a few problems and been the root cause of some trouble. Slow brake reaction and release being one symptom.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, john1950 said:

In the brake line scematic of the Crane/Rogers 40/45 ton trailer two air filters are shown one on each line. I cannot find any maintainance instructions for these, but by now I would think they will need cleaning. Brake line filters and silencers have in the past given me a few problems and been the root cause of some trouble. Slow brake reaction and release being one symptom.

i have 2 NOS filters for my trailer as originals are missing. think they are simple multi stacked layers of brass discs which you remove, clean and re stack. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...