Dingo Carburettor work

[Jerry Cornelius]

Hi all

I wonder if anyone has any recommendations for work on Dingos, specifically the carburettor, around Bristol/wilts if possible?

Mine will start and idle without difficulty, but usually dies as soon as the throttle is touched.  I guess there is a issue with the speed jet. I've been known to have a go at fixing a 125 cc bike carburettor (or a chainsaw !) but that is about my limit and  I am not at all confident I wont make things worse if I start poking around in a solex .

 

Any suggestions for somewhere that may be familiar with these carbs please?

 

Many thanks

 

 

[Nick Johns]

Speak to Richard Farrant for Dingo work, there was a thread on here a few years back on the problems with Dingo carbs

Edited May 3, 2018 by Nick Johns

[dustyvon]

Or speak to Tobin Jones/Tom Cunningham. They're across Buckingham way but doing quite a bit of Dingo work at the moment.

[Richard Farrant]

On ‎5‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 10:23 PM, Nick Johns said:

Speak to Richard Farrant for Dingo work, there was a thread on here a few years back on the problems with Dingo carbs

Hi Jerry,

Just come across this and see Nick has put my name forward. You can get overhaul kits for these carbs and there is a lot of information on how they work with illustrations in the Dingo workshop manuals. Probably needs a complete clean in an ultrasonic cleaner or similar. Could be the diaphragms in the accelerator pump have failed or jets and /or drillings are obstructed. If you have had this vehicle for a while has it suddenly happened?

regards, Richard

[Rolfg]

I am no expert or mechanic, but will tell you about an experience I had one summer. I have had exactly the same thing happen suddenly to a veteran boat motor that needed a 2 percent oil blend in the fuel. Turned out that we used the wrong type of oil in the blend. It was very frustrating, lost a whole summer out on the water with the carb apart at least twice. After a tip from a boat mechanic to change fuel lines and start with fresh fuel and oil, bobs your uncle.

l don't know if you have a blended fuel or not, but checking the fuel quality is a simple messure to start with.

cheers Rolf

[REME 245]

Richards advice as usual is good.   Champ Spares amongst others offer rebuild kits.

If you have deep pockets and are not in a hurry Carburetor Exchange will do the work.

 

[Jerry Cornelius]

Thanks everyone 

 

unfortunately the easy wins have been tried.  The starting and idling were a bit suspect, and fresh fuel was the first thought. Then two months standing converted iffy starting to non starting, which led to a carb strip and clean, and (much needed) renewal of the diaphragms etc with the champ spares kit.  Now starting and idling are as they should be but acceleration is the issue.  

It may be as simple as a stray bit of muck, or it may not, and as there are a few other nice to do jobs on it I’m at the stage where the time and skill vs cash trade of is in favour of having a garage with experience look at it I think 

 

 

 

[dustyvon]

I reckon that one gets most of us in the end. In my case it was the need to take the hull off and have a serious go at stopping looking like an oil well every time I stopped!

[Richard Farrant]

21 hours ago, Jerry Cornelius said:

  Now starting and idling are as they should be but acceleration is the issue.  

 

 

 

I am wondering if your fuel pump is not putting enough through to keep the float chamber full, The pump diaphragm might be a bit stretched.

Back to the carby, there are some very small passages in it and fuel nowadays seems to have a lot of fine deposits which tend to pass through the inline filters that a lot of us use now.

[Jerry Cornelius]

These are also good points. The fuel pump could do with a refurb on principle. (It’s on the jobs list, and I’m musing going electric ). I have no idea when it was last done and don’t doubt from the state of the carb that the pump diaphragm will also be showing age. I suspect that was part of what was behind the initial issues. But I doubt it’s the main cause of the present issue because the engine just dies with no rise in revs, rather than showing willing and then dying  

I have now fitted a fuel filter

I suspect/hope you are right about gunk  

On the question of garages has anyone any experience of west end garage Bruton?  They are not far from me and iirc from CMV have a side line in MVs?

 

 

 

 

[MWMike]

It’s been a long time since your post- I have a similar problem with my friends dingo that I’m looking at- it starts, runs but splutters when you touch the accelerator then after a few minutes dies away. Timing is fine, coil is fine and it throws a decent spark, but the plugs are dry when you take one out after it has spluttered to a halt.

fuel pump? Dirt in the carb? What do you think? I’ve an electric pump and I’m going to jury rig to see if it’s the old mech pump that’s failing.

 

[Richard Farrant]

Hi Mike,

On the petrol tank, is the suction pipe on the top? It should be a short hose with wire braid covering. If it is, My bet is that the hose is cracked and drawing air so you are not getting enough petrol to fill the carb. I have seen this many times. Replace with a length of new fuel hose. You can test this first by putting the new hose in to a can of petrol and seeing if the engine will run longer.

I would be wary at fitting an electric pump as it may produce too much pressure and cause flooding. Pumps can be High or Low pressure depending on where they are in the system.

regards, Richard

[dustyvon]

Richard’s comment is spot on particularly with modern fuel and old rubber lined hoses. I had this problem with that hose several times over the last 40+ years. 
I’ve been using an electric fuel pump for several years now without drama but the only real benefit over mechanical is being able to start without first priming when it’s been standing. Otherwise mechanical always worked fine.

[MWMike]

I’ll try the hose! 

[sexton]

Found this thread because I have the same problem on our new-to-us Dingo, ie good idle but backfired and quit when any throttle applied. 
I checked timing and found it too retarded. Set it at 12 degrees btdc (figure that’s ok with modern gas) and that fixed the backfire and quitting, but not the major off-idle bog. 

I took the carb apart before I noticed this and found accel pump diaphragms in good shape but no spring in the pump! Found a spring in my stash but it may be too weak, so that may be cause.

But it feels more like an off-idle transfer port problem to me since it bogs so dramatically as soon as the engine comes off idle. This is earlier than I would expect accel pump to kick in.  

I checked the manuals I have, and found info on the carb is poor. Cross section does not show an off idle transfer port and I didn’t think to check when I had it apart. So perhaps the accel pump is also designed to compensate for off idle demand? 
 

Low float level is a possibility but I’ve always found the idle circuit insensitive to float level. It’s the main circuit that shows this first. Engine revs happily to redline once past bog.  
 

I’ll take carb apart again, check for a plugged off idle port, and try a stronger accel pump spring. 
 

Dingo still has mechanical fuel pump which seems to work ok, because when I crack banjo bolt at carb, I get a good squirt of gas. But it could also be a good source of rubber debris if it’s old.
 

Malcolm