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Help with Lwt Land Rover Gear Box problem?


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I recently took my Lwt for a drive and found that once the vehicle has warmed up that there is a 'clatter' from the gear box especially in low gear. Strangely I have no problems getting all the gears, even reverse and the Lwt drives ok when the engine and gear box is under load. I have driven it twice since the first incident. However if I'm in traffic or have to pull up at a junction and I'm already down in a low gear in anticipation of stopping there is a heavy 'donk' noise as I press on the clutch and I get a 'clatter clatter' noise from the gear box even when in neutral but this goes as soon as I use the brakes and the vehicle has come to a halt. There are no visible signs of anything wrong, no leaks in the brake master or slave cylinders or anything in between and the prop shaft isn't hanging off! So what could it be?


Some have said a loose clutch plate or perhaps clutch plate cover?


The gear box was removed and serviced two years ago but the clutch was considered by the garage to be OK.


Any ideas?

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I'm not brave enough to be a Land Rover person, but I'd be thinking maybe flywheel come loose on the crank, or pressure plate cover come loose on the flywheel.


If it has a lower flywheel cover you can remove, I'd be having a look in there for something that wasn't as tight as it should be, and check the gearbox mounts while you are there.

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If the noise isn't present under load, it doesn't sound like a problem with the engine or gearbox - you can verify this by going through the gears with the transfer box in neutral. If the noise isn't present, it suggests that the problem is in the drive train. There are so many joints in the drive train that it could simply be wear in some or all of them having a cumulative effect. Whilst you have power on, any slack is taken up, but as soon as you press the clutch, the wheels are driving the prop shafts and gears etc, and the clunk you describe is the backlash being taken up.

As FV102 suggested, go through the drive train methodically, checking for wear in splines, ujs, drive flanges etc, you problem is likely to be in one or more of these. Best of luck locating the problem.



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Hard to second-guess from the descriptive of "clatter" , however my interpretation of a "clatter" emanating from the area of gearbox (main) - then I would be thinking 'clutch-cover' area . What I would do is this , 1. remove floor plates 2. fit loose plywood floorplate at drivers side . 3. Get assistant to drive , with self in passenger seat & using longest ancient Britool screwdriver as stethoscope. I normally keep my UJ's well primed with Rocol blue grease - so never have issues.


However - my very first check would be easier ,there is one thing that can cause a 'clatter' , this is the hand-brake (transmission brake) snatching off / on and is quite a common problem caused by the EXPANDER + shoes COMING LOOSE . This is not so easy to detect , it is the actual ADJUSTER ,as it is secured by two hex. nuts and a late-type 'double locker-plate between (542515) :-




The nuts may appear to be clenched with the lockers - many times have I found the whole lot apparently secure but floating loose , go for a observation run with the centre seat base removed - unless you have a FFR LoL


btw - when under , check also your gearbox steady bar and rubbers for obvious reasons , they have a bit to do with transmission brake correct operation too ,,



ps. Check the transmission-brake bellcrank assembly , return tension spring to transfer box anchor point has not snapped - they often do and this can cause snatching.

Edited by ruxy
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However - my very first check would be easier ,there is one thing that can cause a 'clatter' , this is the hand-brake (transmission brake) snatching off / on and is quite a common problem caused by ............................


Bang on Ruxy, I'll go with that, but it may be as simple as poor adjustment or contaminated brake shoes -- the rear oil seals are always suspect! We have also found in the past that the transmission brake has been adjusted at some point by shortening the vertical rod from the bell crank to operating lever and this may have come about from compensating for worn shoes in the past and then of course, once new shoes are fitted the free distance for the linkage is lost and the brake shoe adjuster has little effect on the free play required.

I would suggest winding the brake adjuster right out (the handbrake should now not work) and road test to see if it still makes the clatter -- if it doesn't you'll know the problem is inside the drum

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Well done Ruxy - it was the hand-brake (transmission brake) snatching off / on!


The pads were soaked in oil and new pads and a new seal should solve the problem, fingers crossed!


The gear box is also to get a new breather as the one fitted my have been blocked hence the oil finding an escape route!

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The garage also gave the engine an internal clean with a system called Terraclean, which apparently gets rid carbon deposits and other crap! It is done through the fuel system. I was also advised to use higher grade fuel on the Lwt as it has less ethanol.


Has anyone else had this Terraclean done on an MV?

Edited by LarryH57
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