BenHawkins Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 The foundry finished the clutch casting so I have been to pick it up. Another hundred pounds spent to tick a part off the list but there is quite a lot of work involved in machining, then fitting the lining. I could not drive the rusted remains of the split pin out from the gearbox output shaft. Clamping the shaft to the table of the milling machine I was able to align the drill axis to the split pin, start the hole with a stub drill then drill through with a 4.5mm drill leaving a small amount of the 3/16" split pin and some rust to pick out of the hole. The damaged thread is likely to be slightly more of a challenge to rectify. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 The final part for the rear universal joint are the bronze sliding blocks. I started by sawing blanks from a piece of square bar. Then milling them to approximately the correct size. And added a hole in the middle with a counter-bore so I can clamp them to a jig for milling the outside diameter. Still plenty of work to do to finish these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 The universal joint at the other end of the propshaft (back of the gearbox) is more conventional but another part I am missing. Fortunately the spares book states the part number and the drawing has survived (in the Surrey History Centre). The drawing states a malleable casting so I think I will get them made in steel. I started by pattern making for the star piece (Part Number 205/3). I used a hole saw to cut a number of discs out of some MDF I had left over from building my house and gluing these into stacks on a 1/4" mandrel to keep them lined up. After turning the two stacks to diameter I used a hole saw in the mill to cut a section of a circle out of one of the stacks. Then I was able to glue the two stacks together and counter-bored a socket for a 5/8 boss where the lubricator will fit. I then cut it half with a hacksaw to make the moulders job easier and fitted three location pins so the two sides line up again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 For the Cardan Shaft Jaw (Part Number 205/6) I decided to start it in two halves rather than cut it after assembly. This began with drawing the profile up in CAD and printing the cross section 1:1 so I could glue it onto some 6mm MDF and cut around with a jigsaw. This also gave me the accurate points to drill for the location pins. I then took my stacks of MDF and cut 12mm from the middle with a hacksaw. I could then glue and clamp them to the central profile. The webs were easily cut, a radius sanded onto them and glued into place. Then they all had a coat of primer. They will all need a bit more filler and sanding before they are good enough for the foundry. It is now time to clean the machines down and machine some of the lumps of metal I already have! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 I have been a bit distracted this week but still managed to make a little progress. The universal joint jaw pattern has had a bit of filler and another couple of coats of primer. It needs a little more sanding before I give it a coat of pattern paint. I won a 5/16 keyway broach on an internet auction so decided to use this to put the keyway in the gear selector drop arm. To start with I had to make a slotted bush from a bar end of steel Then use the press to force the broach through, each time adding a shim until the correct depth was achieved. I files a notch in the wings and their brackets and filed three of the corners from the square on some coach bolts to properly fit the mudguards. Fitting the mudguards allowed me to check the width against my body drawings and the original photo. I have sent off the cutting list for the bed to a timber merchant. The cab will be ordered later as I don't think I have the space to do them both at once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 I machined a block of steel, putting flats the correct distance apart, then drilled and tapped M8 on the centre line. Using a Dial Test Indicator I centred the block on the rotary table. Followed by machining the radius with an end mill. [ATTACH=CONFIG]117665[/ATTACH] I drilled and countersunk the lubrication hole then used some masking tape to give the location to clamp the blocks on the rotary table so I could machine the curved lubrication grooves with a 1/8" ball nose slot drill. Turning the blocks around to machine the second groove. After putting the vice on the milling machine and centring on the block I drilled out the counter-bored hole (used for fitting to the jig), then opened the hole up to 1-1/8" using the boring head. The final job will be to machine the internal lubrication grooves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 I tilted the head on a milling machine and used a woodruff cutter to add the internal oil groove. The positioning and depth did not need to be incredibly accurate so I just returned the table height to the same zero point each time, moved the cutter until it just touched then moved a further 1/16". Each time I turned/swapped the block I lined it up with the side of the vice jaws. Ready to fit. I had a family event this weekend so there is a little less progress than usual but I have spent some money on an order of steel for the universal joint pins and bushes (this one and the matching one for the 1908) and some steel for the body. More money spent on a batch of laser cutting. These are parts for wing brackets and various body fittings, some of which I have already attacked with the angle grinder. Add that to the order for the timber to construct the bed and I have certainly exhausted my salary for the month! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 The transmission brake hub did not come with the clamps for the universal joint bushes. After machining two blocks to the same size I mounted them together in a machine vice, found the centre and drilled a pilot hole. I then bored the hole out to just short of 1.250" (the diameter of the bushes) using a boring head. It was then easy to clamp the blocks up on a suitable piece of steel and turn the diameters. After a few further adjustments to the shape using the milling machine and a file I fitted them to the transmission brake hub and reamed through the holes to clean up the corroded surfaces and open up the clamps to the finished size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 I am making this up as I go along but for the rear brace I plan to drill through the vertical faces of the casting and bolt through to the braces this way. The front pair will be much more of a challenge. There is a reasonable amount of the nearside mount remaining but the offside one is completely missing. This will probably involve fabricating a copy of the missing mounting, then trying to weld it to the existing casing. For this brace I think I will resort to bolts through the case to the inside of the gearbox as well (making sure I position them to miss the gears). run some solder across the whole of the contact area theres enough cross sectional area available here to stiffen it all up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 The glamorous assistant required some entertaining and dining this weekend but helped out in the garage for the rest of the weekend. I started on the replacement steering arm by facing and centre drilling a length of EN3 steel. [ATTACH=CONFIG]112941[/ATTACH] Then turned the taper and thread on the end and checked it fitted the axle. [ATTACH=CONFIG]112942[/ATTACH] Using a bent piece of welding rod to work out the approximate length required [ATTACH=CONFIG]112943[/ATTACH] Then Sarah turned the diameter down for me. [ATTACH=CONFIG]112944[/ATTACH] It needs a keyway adding to the taper before heating up and bending. Then it will need cutting off to length and a boss shaping for the ball joint to fit to. I need to machine a tapered socket for the ball joint and that is probably beyond the capabilities of my facilities. nice to see a rollorbox wasn`t involved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted August 28, 2016 Author Share Posted August 28, 2016 nice to see a rollorbox wasn`t involved It is certainly not a flimsy component. Even if there was some deflection in the work piece the diameter of the arm between the taper and the socket is not critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted August 28, 2016 Author Share Posted August 28, 2016 Sorry for the lack of updates, we have taken a short holiday that included a trip to the Great Dorset Steam Fair. However I still have some progress on one item from before we left. If you remember, I had to split the transmission brake hub nut to get the gearbox apart. I thought I had damaged the thread on the output shaft but I found a Coventry die chaser of the correct pitch and cleaned it up by hand. As it turned out it was actually just rust left in the thread. Making the hexagonal blank for the nut is in a previous post; I was fairly confident I would not find a new old stock 1-5/16x16tpi Whitworth form slotted half nut. I drilled then bored the nut blank out to the correct diameter followed by cutting the thread using a single point tool. The photo shows me checking the finished thread fits the shaft. Then it was just a case of adding the slots for the split pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flandersflyer Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 It is certainly not a flimsy component. Even if there was some deflection in the work piece the diameter of the arm between the taper and the socket is not critical. It was a mildly sexist comment I were making ☺😯☺ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 4, 2016 Author Share Posted September 4, 2016 A bit less progress this week as Beaulieu autojumble, auction and also collecting the engine for the 1908 used up around three days. After countersinking some of the laser cut profiles I bent them in the press. To give corner brackets for the bed. The timber for the bed has arrived as well and will hopefully take shape soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 11, 2016 Author Share Posted September 11, 2016 The rear universal joint socket had been getting in the way so I decided to bolt it in place. I still need to sort out some Grover washers for it and to fit the split pins. I had a day off work this week to make some progress towards manufacturing the bed. After marking out the ash bearers I cut the radius with a hole saw and the straight lines by hand. Then to get the clearance to fit the saw in the central section I cut a number of slots with the circular saw. Followed by chopping the wood out with a chisel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 11, 2016 Author Share Posted September 11, 2016 Cutting out the middle section. Plane back to the lines Router a radius on the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 11, 2016 Author Share Posted September 11, 2016 Chamfer applied with the router. Four finished bearers. Bearers then primed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 11, 2016 Author Share Posted September 11, 2016 I had invited some friends around for the weekend. The weather was a bit wet on Saturday so we had to stay inside where the space is a little limited. After bolting the bearers to the chassis we were able to lay out the timbers for the perimeter rail to allow the lengths to be scribed. We made a drilling jig from a reject casting to keep the drill square to the timbers, then counter-bored for the nuts and washers. The perimeter rail will later be covered by a steel capping piece. More of the timbers were primed and allowed to dry over night before reassembling and adding the corner braces I had made previously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 11, 2016 Author Share Posted September 11, 2016 Douglas fir tongue and groove boards cut to cover the bed area leaving an opening for the access panel for the back axle. With the access panel in place. The factory photo does not show the finish of the floor boards, seeing the boards here I am tempted to just varnish them. Unfortunately I messed up the cutting list for the steel capping rails so I need to order some more. I would like to thank my friends for their help this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Bill Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 You had just one day off? Makes my week off look pretty unproductive! Keep up the good work! Steve :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 You had just one day off? Makes my week off look pretty unproductive! Keep up the good work! Steve :-D One day to shape the bearers but I did think my arm would fall off at the end of it! I have been looking through early photos and magazines but the bed is rarely on show. Gloss paint or varnish did not seem right as the finish would be scratched by the crates and would need to be easily maintained. My good friend Mick who provided the chassis in the first place lent me "Motor Body Work for Commercial Cars" (1916) and this seems to have the answer: Suggesting the floor should be dark grey or black. Back to manufacturing: Cutting and welding the rear angle iron hoop. The universal joint on the back of the gearbox has the first pin slotted so it can be retained by the second pin (a shoulder screw) with a slotted nut. I have only roughed out the shoulder screw so it needs to be finished and oil grooves added to both pins before they are nitride case hardened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 I made a drilling jig and lined up the planks for the back board with some scribed lines for fitting dowels Checking the boards fit together. Using the 3, 4, 5 triangle rule I drew on a line at one end and trimmed it square, followed by marking off the line and cutting to length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypugh Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 [ATTACH=CONFIG]118838[/ATTACH] http://www.diy.com/departments/ryobi-one-18v-150mm-cordless-circular-saw-rwsl18011l/196739_BQ.prd (I am sure that it was never meant to do it, but mine has cut through 150x20mm aluminium bar without any sign of complaint. But you do end up with swarf in your underpants) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share Posted September 25, 2016 http://www.diy.com/departments/ryobi-one-18v-150mm-cordless-circular-saw-rwsl18011l/196739_BQ.prd (I am sure that it was never meant to do it, but mine has cut through 150x20mm aluminium bar without any sign of complaint. But you do end up with swarf in your underpants) Underpants are the minimum "Personal Protective Equipment" required, other PPE is available! I do own a circular saw but I can follow my line more closely with a hand saw. The first job this week was to cut the thread on the universal joint pin and add the split pin hole. Much of this week has been taken up by priming the floor boards, first with a thinned coat followed by an un-thinned coat. I don't have enough space to do them all at the same time. I had made a mistake with the angle hoop so had to splice an extra piece in the middle but now all the welds are flushed off and it has a coat of primer it looks like the one in the delivery photo. I cut some lengths of 40x12 convex steel bar, drilled and countersunk them before welding them to make up the coping irons (thanks to "Motor Body Work for Commercial Cars" I now know what they are called). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share Posted September 25, 2016 Trial fitting of the coping irons and rear hoop. It all looks like it will work. Removing all the ironwork again so I could give all the timber a coat of undercoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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