andym Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 I'm sure that recently someone suggested ideas for unseizing aluminium and steel, such as steel studs in an aluminium block. Of course, now I'm looking for the thread I can't find it. The latches on my Abbot's driver's hatches are seized and they're steel plugs in aluminium holes. Any ideas or patent mixes of chemicals welcome! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 It was a fly killer spray i believe ! C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 Brilliant - thank you! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Gently warm the steel item and then push an ordinary white candle at it, keeping your head away as it may spontaneously combust. Extinguish flame, warm steel item again, repeat candle application. As it cools give the steel item a sharp direct hit with a hammer. Grip with a pair of mole / vice grips and tighten before loosening. What happens is the wax gets drawn down the rust and crud between the two and then the blow disturbs it. Had a lot of success with this method, especially useful after building up the stud by welding. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 I assume that you've tried generous applications of WD-40 or RP-7 over a few days? Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share Posted June 7, 2014 Thanks Robin, and yes I've tried WD-40 and friends but was after something less obvious. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Freezer sprays. Great on disimilar metals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 kettle of boiling water different metals different expansion rates , also paint stripper heat gun used on seized ferret aerial tube screw caps works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Comber Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Regular coke worked 20 years ago for me on a dolly sprint head, so long as you can get it to sit in the head tube, I assume this attacked the electrolysis build up or aluminium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scammell4199 Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Just warm the aluminium up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 I've had some success with heat, and lots of it! Aluminium oxide is very hard (used in abrasive paper/ sandblasting, etc) but it's also brittle. Breaking it's bond is the key. For a steel bolt in aluminium, the bolt needs to be heated - ideally to red hot, then allowed to cool. This expands the steel which crushes the crystalline aluminium oxide causing the bond to break. Several repetitions of heat cycles may be required. Oxy/Acetylene is the best thing to use as it's so intense, and the heat can be localised, but care should be taken not to melt the aluminium! Obviously heat can't be used in all situations, like if the part is still fitted! Spark erosion / Electrical Discharge Machining is the correct professional way to remove corroded bits from alloy, but it can be expensive, unless you can find a friendly engineer who will do small jobs for a couple of beers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 Thanks for all the replies, some very helpful advice there! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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