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Humber heavy utility


Jimmy F

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The first one looks like a Bedford MW, they have a distinctive bonnet side. The Humber FWDs have a big brush guard in front of the radiator which is quite high and cycle type mudguards which would make it difficult to casually lean on unless your about 6ft4in (guestimate !)

The second one looks like a 'Monty' open style Humber 4x2 car, so getting closer. One of those would be nice to motor about in.

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4 minutes ago, brown cow said:

The first one looks like a Bedford MW, they have a distinctive bonnet side. The Humber FWDs have a big brush guard in front of the radiator which is quite high and cycle type mudguards which would make it difficult to casually lean on unless your about 6ft4in (guestimate !)

The second one looks like a 'Monty' open style Humber 4x2 car, so getting closer. One of those would be nice to motor about in.

Glad we got close!  I believe this image may be of models made for the film.

Hotel Sahara.jpg

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This was the beauty which was being sold in Holland last year - for around £40,000 as I recall.

HumberFWD.jpg.e30dab28a1bbf8f6f4f9601046caf927.jpg

And this appeared on this forum a few years ago - the owner popped up with it but no more developed on that thread.  Also a beauty and original.  There's something about these large Humbers!

HumberSnipe2.jpg.a8842994bc688b9ec320289d16ccf700.jpg

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I am sure that it is a Bedford but with the earlier type of bonnet side. These originally had a piece of wire mesh attached to the inside face of an oval opening but these were rather fragile and were replaced in production by ones on the rather artistically painted Bedford in Rupert's post. Those late ones were just slots pierced into the sheet metal. The one with the guy leaning on it has home made slats added to an early type one that has lost its wire mesh. The early and late designs were interchangeable so can turn up on any date of Bedford.

David

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4 minutes ago, David Herbert said:

I am sure that it is a Bedford but with the earlier type of bonnet side. These originally had a piece of wire mesh attached to the inside face of an oval opening but these were rather fragile and were replaced in production by ones on the rather artistically painted Bedford in Rupert's post. Those late ones were just slots pierced into the sheet metal. The one with the guy leaning on it has home made slats added to an early type one that has lost its wire mesh. The early and late designs were interchangeable so can turn up on any date of Bedford.

David

Not my thing at all: but I can see the similarity.  All the best.  A

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi 

I am looking at the propeller shafts and they are different, at each end, the book shows them to be the same was there a production change, or are these part chev. or othere type?

that is they should be had splicer type at each end, and not have the extra long bit.

as below

Unknown.thumb.jpeg.6d327ea3b2d466fe39435ef078c68894.jpeg

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Hi Rupert

I just went to the shed and pulled out the drive shafts from my project, not fitted yet. A bit dark but they are as in the parts book.  Your vehicle being early could be different but unlikely. My vehicle was fitted with a diff from a car of the era which has a higher ratio and the shaft was lengthened by about an inch because the civvy diff looks to have smaller bearings and not as bulky as the military diff. I did get the original diff as well luckily.

regards, Andrew

WIN_20240212_17_15_49_Pro.jpg

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I came across this photo this evening on the BAOR Locations website.  It was taken by a chap called George Frost, to whom credits, therefore, belong.  It is from the troops occupying Austria, though, I suspect, those aren't them in the picture!  Shame the light has hidden the markings.

CourtesyGeorgeFrostinAustria45-46.jpg.1369fea1ff5cf0c3e267b1de7994b661.jpg

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  • 3 months later...

hi All,

I have Just done the front and rear shock absorber rubbers, the ones in the link arms,

Used Rubbers from SuperPro,

these are top hat type, so the rim will need to be filed /ground off,,

rear are SPF2154K (kit) and front are SPF1576K(kit)

IMG_2042.thumb.JPG.6d7480dec971deb27706571327294096.JPG

(I do suggest you double check this)

the kit has steel bushes that should fit the lower link, the top link pin should be the same size as the bush I.D.

my front ones(top pins) are not, as they had been replaced with bronze bushes, so I will need to m/c down these pins.

RS part no. 1265967 bumpstops not parabolic as listed but conical, but will do.

again check the site first as the pictures do not match the product description.

Holden rear spring silent blocks will fit the transmission , but these will require a bit of work,So there maybe better options.

now I am looking for a "mercury spanner" not that you can get them these days,

for the front wheel bearings,

IMG_2066.thumb.JPG.9af8be9ac3b9587c29fd20988f83486f.JPG

i guess foxy/act will have to do.

in the end a light grind round with a dremmel, and a cross cut chisel.

followed by some accurate drilling.

image.thumb.jpeg.04145fc250c98126cda21ecd9385a5f0.jpeg

hey presto!

I will have to get back to the treads,

removing the swivel hub taper roller bearing cones,

the bottom cone is fairly easy as its a solid base , the top housing has a hole in it, in this case the centre pins are removed and a brass screw, inserted this works great, as it keeps the jaws apart these were ground down a bit to fit

IMG_2159.thumb.JPG.6ef049ecda367a6d5688a0fa9d8d28d3.JPG

IMG_2158.thumb.JPG.252d7ee8b0335109fd7510a300b0c2f1.JPG

the book does say how to make the extractor, which is a bit fiddly to use, the base thickness was also a bit too thick to fit, so i had to re-machine, for $100, this is the better investment.only need hand tools.

 

 

 

 

Edited by rupert condick
much more info
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