Spray-on glue that still works when hot?

[fv1609]

To reline the Shorland I have previously used Dunlop thixotropic glue that is rather chunky & difficult to spread evenly or Evo-stik, which is runnier but more messy. I was delighted to find this spray adhesive http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/240143

 

It was very easy to use & stuck the foam to the body quite effectively. The problem was at a show once the sun had been shining for most of the day, most of the foam had fallen off & lost its stickiness.

 

I see the there is an Evo-stik carpet adhesive http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/227811 but I don't know whether that is as effective as normal Evo-stik when subjected to heat?

 

Does anyone have any recommendations for a spray on glue that will resist the effects of heat once it has set please?

[gritineye]

Got a similar problem Clive, been looking for something to re-stick the head lining in my camper, which has come down due to the glue failing, the roof gets v hot!

 

Found this and I might give it a go..http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/High_Temperature_Contact_Adhesive_1Ltr_ADHCON

[gritineye]

Another posiblity..http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1263-heat-resistant-adhesive.aspx

[Rangie]

Good job you found out before you fitted the Trakmark!! :shocked:

 

I too have used evostick, but applied with a 4" roller. It left enough of a lick to adhere to but not so much it glooped down.

 

No, it wasn't an excuse to get high, we were applying plastic signs to steel panels inside stores/workshops. Some were laminated expanded foam and others just hard plastic. They got pretty hot but none came down, the workshops were demolished before they fell off, circa 8 years....... Largest was about 3 foot by 4, smallest about 10" square.

 

Good question though, wonder if there is anything better..........

 

Alec.

[Rangie]

Another posiblity..http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1263-heat-resistant-adhesive.aspx

 

Like the look of that!

Go on Guinea-(Humber)Pig Elliot, give it a whirl and report back please

 

Alec.

[fv1609]

That looks promising Bernard yes I might well go for some as it makes a specific point about the heat.

 

The foam I'm using is actually sleeping mat roll. I find normal foam collapses when it gets a good dose of glue.

 

On top of the foam I will stick Dunlop Trakmark vinyl lining. Many AFVs used this. I remember may years ago looking at the Trakmark on a newly issued AS90 & that was lifting away in the afternoon sun. I notice that later Shorlands had large plastic studs to make certain of it being anchored down in the corners.

 

So it has always been a bit of a problem area, but the Wickes spray on stuff just seemed too easy!

[fv1609]

Like the look of that!

Go on Guinea-(Humber)Pig Elliot, give it a whirl and report back please

 

Alec.

 

Yes I will do Alec. The dilemma is some of the Trakmark I was going to use first is self-adhesive, but I don't know how tough that adhesion will be, but it might grip the roll mat quite well.

 

I've not helped the bond to the body by painting it with primer & then gloss. The original surface was a thin coat of primer & given the rust that has radiated around the rear hatch in particular I wanted a more rust resistant surface underneath.

[gritineye]

My headlining was put in by the people who converted the van, it has already come down once and been put back up by them since I've owned it ( I bought it used) they used spray glue.

 

I am of the opinion that spraying does not get the glue right into the fibres, so will be trying the messy type I think, unless someone comes up with a better plan.

[sirhc]

Clive,

 

Not spray on, but this stuff has worked well for me sticking down exhaust heat shield material and re-attaching lining material and hatch seals on CVRTs.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEAVY-DUTY-HIGH-TEMPERATURE-CONTACT-ADHESIVE-GLUE-1ltr-/220463087601?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item33549fbff1

 

Chris

[philb]

I used evo-stick time bond to stick carpet to the underside of my aluminium skinned gull-wing doors and back roof on my "seven" and it worked well. It's not runny like normal evo-stick, easy to spread and has not failed in eight years.

[gritineye]

That looks promising Bernard yes I might well go for some as it makes a specific point about the heat.

 

The foam I'm using is actually sleeping mat roll. I find normal foam collapses when it gets a good dose of glue.

 

On top of the foam I will stick Dunlop Trakmark vinyl lining. Many AFVs used this. I remember may years ago looking at the Trakmark on a newly issued AS90 & that was lifting away in the afternoon sun. I notice that later Shorlands had large plastic studs to make certain of it being anchored down in the corners.

 

So it has always been a bit of a problem area, but the Wickes spray on stuff just seemed too easy!

 

This is interesting, not sure which other glues are affected like this, I presume it is the glue that is softened in time.

 

From the Timebond Data Sheet:

LIMITATIONS

• Evo-Stik Timebond is intended for interior

use, but can be used in exterior locations

protected from the weather, such as for

laminates bonded to shop fronts.

• It is unsuitable for use with sensitive surfaces

such as expanded polystyrene, cellulose

painted surfaces, bituminous surfaces.

• Do not use Evo-Stik Timebond with vinyl or

plasticised PVC as it will soften in time.

• It will not bond well to polyolefins such as

polyethylene, polypropylene or teflon.

 

Just remembered that I Evo stuck some sleeping roll, the thick black ex MOD type to the roof of Forceful to stop my head exploding in the summer, had a look at the bit that fell of a while ago and the foam is unaffected though the glue has mostly come off it, leaving a clean surface.

 

Edited May 6, 2013 by gritineye

[andym]

I'd agree that spray-on glue doesn't seem to provide a decent enough layer to bond properly. It's probably OK for car headlining and the like, but not for something as porous as foam. I'm using normal Evostick Impact and globbing it on with a plastic Harris spreader from B&Q. Timebond seems too thick to spread well, although it should be good for vertical surfaces.

 

I'm also confused by the adhesive backing on the Trakmark. It doesn't ever seem to be more than just tacky so it's useless for attaching it to anything. Either its gone off with age, or perhaps it needs an activator of some kind?

 

The other trick I've learned is not to cut the Trakmark flush with the foam as was done originally, but to continue it round the edges and onto the back. That way it can't peel at the edges like it usually does.

 

 

Andy

[fv1609]

Chris well if you used that stuff to good effect in the heat that's the sort of recommendation I was after so I'll get some.

 

Andy I've had Trakmark before but its not been adhesive. Given that it ceased production I think at least 15 years ago the glue must be quite old. I don't know whether that coating will be an impediment to the joining with new glue. But I think I might use my non glued roll, then the new adhesive can seep into the cloth backing more effectively.

 

I thought the standard practice was to fold it over the edges of the foam. It was certainly the way it was done on the Shorland. Although that does raise the problem of getting the vinyl surface itself to bind to the adhesive. Around the edges of hatches & doors is a particular problem as there is a raised splash guard. Although the foam is contoured the edges a prone to lift away particularly where thin sections are needed.

 

[andym]

Here's a friend's Abbot giving a good demonstration of the lifting edge problem. The Trakmark may originally have extended round the edge of the foam but certainly didn't go round the back. Every FV430 I've seen is finished the same way, so I thought it was the standard approach.

 

 

Andy

[fv1609]

Andy yes see what you mean, it certainly is just to the edge & not underneath.

 

I think as on your example earlier over the edge would seem to be the better way although the vinyl surface to metal union is the weak link.

 

When I glue the foam I don't glue the edge so as to allow the under-tuck with the Trakmark, which then has to be glued to the foam & vehicle body. Does get a bit messy trying to get it all held down!

 

[rampant rivet]

I had a similar problem with fitting heat and sound deadening mats to the Chevrolet as heat from the engine affected the spray on glue I tried first in the end I used Sticks like Sh1t yes thats what its called, its an adhesive used a lot in the building industry and really does what it says on the tube the only drawback is that you have to spread it by hand from the tube rather than spray it on as its applied from a mastic gun but saying that its really very good.

[Marmite!!]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trim-Fix-Heavy-Duty-Heat-Resistant-Spray-Adhesive-Glue-500ml-high-temperature-/190644873830#vi-content

Trim Spray Heavy Duty Heat Resistant Spray Adhesive Glue - Ideal for vehicle interior trimming, headlinings, carpets, fabric and leather seats, etc.

The glue IS high density so is suitable for roof lining. It is a high heat resistance adhesive which withstands heat temperatures up to 90 degrees celcius.

 

 

 

[fv1609]

Thank you for that Lee, you posted it just in time! I came back to the thread to link to the stuff Chris had used & found your link.

 

I like the uniformity of spread with a spray apart from the ease of use. So I'll be giving it a go

[gritineye]

Clive, I'm sure you're aware but the instructions that I have read say you need to build up the spray glue with three coats or more, so you probably will need more than you think...

Edited May 8, 2013 by gritineye

[fv1609]

No hadn't read that Bernard. At least the spray should give uniformity of coverage, I found with the other glues I would tend to get ridges of excessive glue & when the mating surfaces came together a ridge on a ridge held the rest a bit high so there was not a flat universal adhesion.

 

I will use the thixotropic stuff I have got for the fiddly bits & edges. Particularly fixing the final stage with the Trakmark folded under I don't want glue dispensed beyond certain defined limits.

 

When this stuff comes I'll re-glue the major panels & wheel the Shorland out to sit in the sun, although that may be a while yet judging by the drizzle that's here.

 

What I had forgotten was that the failed glue will still be there, so will that be the weak link that limits the effectiveness of any subsequent adhesions?

[gritineye]

What I had forgotten was that the failed glue will still be there, so will that be the weak link that limits the effectiveness of any subsequent adhesions?

 

[video=youtube_share;IR_fqFuctOQ]

 

I think the problem with mine has been that just one patchy coat of spray glue was used, don't know how to get it off the fabric though..

[fv1609]

I think the problem with mine has been that just one patchy coat of spray glue was used

 

I suppose if it was that patchy then the previously naked areas would be receptive to the new glue unhindered. That might might carry the weaker previously glued bits.

 

Given the susceptibility to heat of the old stuff then maybe a hot a gun would let it be scraped off at least the metal surface?

[fv1609]

Perusing some EMERs, as one does on a wet afternoon, I see that the additional padding in NI vehicles was glued on with EC847.

 

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Aerospace/Aircraft/Prod_Info/Prod_Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20SOG5000000_nid=V69G89P6PDbe1K3HXBTMF8gl

[fv1609]

Well just gone through hot weather trials with a week at W&P in the Shorland. This stuff (as linked by Lee) still hung on without any tendency to soften, peel or let go. :-D

 

[Tony B]

And over the next few days, you may well find out if it is waterproof! :-D