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Which chassis paint

Fred Kember

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If you get the chassis blasted, make sure that you get paint in all the corners. The chap who does my blasting has one of those spray guns that draws paint from a bucket, this way he can turn the gun everyway and whichway to ensure good coverage. I use a good quality Chassis Black, which is what it says, check out your local auto paint supplier. You can then overcoat this with your finish coat of olive drab or what ever.

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Anyone used the two part epoxy systems?


Yes I used a 2 coat epoxy on my Leyland frame, very good, but you need to work quickly and wash the gun out fully as soon as you'r finished.

If your frame is not badly pitted I would go with Richards suggestion of frame black it's easier to work with.



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a zinc phosphate epoxy primer, followed by an MIO epoxy barrier coat, with a final gloss topcoat of your choice will be one of the most durable coating systems you can apply. Sigma coatings are a one of the most respected brands for these kinds of paints, but Firwood Paints are also good.

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Although my chassis is on a small scale to some, I was using POR 15 which is excellent to very expensive. Added to which you have to use small tins as they start to harden as soon as you remove the lid for the first time.


After a recomendation from my son who paints commercial vehicles professionally I now use two pack which is infinately cheaper, gives me plenty of time for application and...... I put it on with a brush.


Put a thin coat over and let it sticky up, then apply the top coat.


Mix is about 2 to 1.


If you choose you can apply directly to steel without a primer.


It works for me.

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Hello Fred


I'm interested where you got your C8 from ? was it a complete basket case, or an older restoration ?




So the Morris c8 is stripped down to chassis, steam cleaned and shot blasted where nesasary . The chassis is extraordinarily rust free and all fastening came undone ! What have you used to paint your chassis with and do you recommend?
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Jules, it's an older restoration (1980) although the body and cab were never removed so the chassis was covered in crud dried grease and god knows how many coats of brush applied paint. The cab is reasonably tidy although some welding required and again the brush applied paint to cut through. The rear body needs some work and new timber throughout. Also while cab and body off new fuel and brake lines and new wiring will be fitted. Also a nasty case of wheel shudder to resolve.

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Shot blast to SIS (Swedish Standard) SA 2.5 (white metal)


- then use what the oil majors have used on rigs in the North Sea (for ever) Leighs , when climate conditions are correct.




I would probably opt. for Epigrip zinc rich primer (pile it on) followed by whatever (probably because this is what I have experience of) , probably a Epigrip 2 pack finish of at least 40 micron dft. Probably best if you ask their advise for primer & a good oil & fuel (when dry) resisting ..


You should be able to pick up a Elcometer museum piece for little £.



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