matadormike Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Hi, Does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram for the driver's instrument panel in a CVR(T)? I have discovered an issue with the indicators on my Spartan and I could do with a 'map' before I delve in. Basically, they work fine when the ignition is off, left, right and hazards work as they should. As soon as you switch the ignition on, they stop working. All of the other lights are (at the moment....) working fine. In addition I think the flasher unit fuse has been bypassed as removing it when the indicators were flashing did nothing! Cheers Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Mike, This is the one you need: http://ekmpowershop5.com/ekmps/shops/greenmachines/cvrt-scorpion-electrical-system-cvrt-165-p.asp Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasSomT. Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Just a thought, you haven't got the 'Blackout' or 'Convoy' switches ON, have you? 'Chas.' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matadormike Posted July 26, 2012 Author Share Posted July 26, 2012 Thanks for the link Chris, I'll get one of those ordered. Chas, thanks I'll have a look at the positions of all of the switches, it is possible that something is set wrong. The fuse problem still has me puzzled though. Cheers Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Mike Also make sure the infra red switch is set normal not ir. I tried this on mine tonight and hazards etc dont work in ir mode. Of course the lights should also be on in this mode but if the wiring has been modified this may have affected this. Cheers Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matadormike Posted August 13, 2012 Author Share Posted August 13, 2012 I've had a bit of an investigating session with the indicators and a wiring diagram. I've come to the conclusion that they might be wired wrongly through the ignition swith itself. Is that possible? I think that the indicators may be wired to a N/C contact which is opened when the ignition is turned on, since they appear to be wired correctly to the multi position light switch contacts. I could be barking up the wrong tree here but as I said before, the indicators work fine with the master cutoff on and the ignition off. As soon as you switch on the ignition, all of the other lights work, and the indicators circuit switches off completely, even if it was on before that. Any ideas? I'm really puzzled now... I may yet have to see if I can temporarily bypass something, which I don't really want to do since this is now one of the last hurdles to getting it on the road. Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matadormike Posted September 8, 2012 Author Share Posted September 8, 2012 Well I finally got to the bottom of my indicator issues. It turns out that it was the instrument panel earth strap not being connected to the hull. :argh: :banghead: I discovered this being the problem after I accidentally earthed the lid to the hull whilst checking voltages with a meter and the indicators sprang into life. I bolted the earth strap to the hull and bingo - celebration time. As an added bonus, the fuel gauge now appears to work and the dial lights now work on their dimmer. All in all quite a happy bunny right now I never thought a bad earth could cause me such agro.... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChasSomT. Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Result! Well done, devious buggers electrical gremlins, take some catching sometimes :laugh: Had an ignition problem that eventually stopped my sons bike completely. Turned out to be a loose earth connection on one of the coils. Threw up all manner of spurious indications! 'Chas.' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 There is a reason it is called "electrickery" R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Mike Frustrating but isnt it great when you sort it out! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRDM Driver Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 I've had some fun with my dashboard too... The Ins Fuse was blew and it made the rev counter run lower and the ignition light work backwards...:nut: My fuel gauge reads max all the time at the moment, any ideas what resistance I should measure across the sender??? None of the dash gauge backlights come on either.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matadormike Posted September 11, 2012 Author Share Posted September 11, 2012 Mike Frustrating but isnt it great when you sort it out! Cheers It is, had I not been sat in the driver's seat I'd have started jumping up and down celebrating. I took it out for a road run on Sunday (partly a celebratory drive) and got through 9 road wheels, won't be out again for a bit till the replacements arrive. Can you get road wheels re-tyred? I have about 11 with no rubber now... I'll see if I can find the page in the electrical manual I have with the fuel sender resistances in it. Cheers Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Innes Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Road wheel re-rubbering has been discussed several times regarding Universal Carrier wheels. It can be done but is expensive. Companies that supply solid tires for lift trucks do this type of work. Currently available replacement wheels are likely the more economical solution. Is the loss of multiple wheel rubber at once a common thing? I have considered owning a CVRT but am a very long way from spare parts suppliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 There is a re-rubbering project ongoing, more details when the tooling is made. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Having just got my Spartan moving again I lost 2 at the show in Dunchurch. It was especially annoying because I had fitted ones which all looked quite good and they were then painted in situ. I think it is more prevalent if the vehicle hasnt had much use - 9 does sound a little unlucky though. I replaced the knackered ones (looked really good mould line still present no stones stuck in them) with part worn ones (flatted off a bit odd stone doesnt look as nice) and these seem to hold together much better! I usually hold a stock of a vehicles worth (I have a few vehicles although they dont get much use and have replaced most of the really bad ones already) so if you want to 'borrow' some Mike until yours arrive just let me know.. I know a couple of people who have had 5 years of shows and road runs out of a single set so I think you just need to keep going till you get good ones. They are not that expensive at the moment though and at least are easy to change.. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 It's true that the worst looking and most battered wheels seem to last forever, but the nicest ones with the moulding seams seem to last just minutes out on the road! I fitted a new set of wheels, 2005 dated, when I restored my Sabre in 2008 and I've not lost one yet, touch wood, so I think the trick is finding the newest ones possible. Also try to match the circumference when fitting used ones in pairs. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matadormike Posted September 11, 2012 Author Share Posted September 11, 2012 You're quite right, some of the wheels I thought would have let go haven't and of course some of the better ones have. To be fair, I don't know how old the wheels are, so some of them were probably on the way out anyway. My replacement wheels are on the way, thanks for the offer though. I've changed more than half of them now, so hopefully I'm on the home straight. The electrical systems handbook I have says: Fuel pump solenoid resistance 20 ohms approx Current consumption less than 1/2 amp Delivery - 10 pints in 3 mins Tank unit resistance 350 to 10 ohms Oil pressure switch opens 8-12 psi Coolant switch closes 106 deg C (223 deg F) Hope that's some help Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 The wheels are date stamped, look for a small circle with 2 numbers stamped into it like 78 or 05. That's the year of manufacture. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Is the fuel gauge problem not a faulty earth...? An old trick to make prospective purchasers think they're buying a full tank....worth quite a lot when the tank in question holds nearly 400 litres! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRDM Driver Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Hi Tim, I checked that there is an earth wire on the back of the gauge. The dashboard case is earthed too. Does the sender have a dedicated earth? I can only see one wire connected to the sender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbo Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 I will check my newly acquired Scorpion electrical systems handbook tonight...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Dozer Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Hello All I have a problem with the wiring of my Spartan, the RH lights front and rear don't work, LH ok. I opened the Instrument Panel but found no missing connection, unfortunately many markings on the wires are now unreadable over the years. Is there a fuse dividing LH and RH light wiring? I hope to get the wiring back in place unharmed and correct. :whistle: Regards Raphael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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