Mr.Dozer

Hello my tracked Friends :cool2: I have the same problems, oil is leaking out of both final drives on my Spartan. I've tried to use thicker oil, but also this was not preventing the oil to drip out on the tracks. Please let me know how what kind of seals you use and how you are processing. This will be a winter job over here in Switzerland for me :-)

Hey Robin, If you have any more questions --> give me a shout or PM me. You are welcome! Is the collection you are working for public? Maybe a good friend of me would like to visit, he is in Canada for business next weeks.

Hello Friends I found some little differences as i changed the engine on my Spartan and want to share it with you: Both vacuum-pipes on the Belgian one where connected to the carb manifold. UK: Holes are plugged and one pipe is connected to the airfilter i believe. Solution: I just swapped a Fitting from the Belgian one to the plugged manifold of the UK one. Belgian engine had a "hidden" rev-limiter fuse, located left of the thermostat housing, on a bracket. Also there was a earth-strap mounted on the bracket. Just to be on the safe side, i also connected there a earth-strap on the new UK engine and one from the lower block down to the vehicle hull. Also the coolant draining valve on the UK engine is modified. Shown here the early pipe with valve located under the filter bowl. A little trick to change the engine with the generator in place, is to slightly lift the rear of the engine. So i was able to turn it slightly to the driver's compartment and lift it out easy with the generator in situ. Maybe this could be helpful for someone. Kind regards, Raph

Many thanks Chris! :cheesy:

Hello Guys Today i wanted to connect a backup-cam to the distribution panel inspection socket of my Spartan and..... zzzzzziiippp.... shorted a wire to ground :shocked: --> now the Fuse is blown :-X. I had a look to the wiring diagramm and found a Fuse F4 for the inspection socket. Anybody knows where it is located? Inside the Box or outside? Kind regards, Raph

Nice! Swiss Version :-)

Back again from the shed :cool2: IT RUNS!!! :-D Started on the button, runs smooth and also low-idling is very good! But found a little oil leak from the top of the filterbase, where the nut is located. So i have to change the seal ring but no problem, because deck and firewall are still off. I found some bolts on the recon-engine not properly tight. I strongly recommend to check all bolts (except the cylinderhead ones) before lifting it in! Thank you ALL very very much for your help! Great Forum, so very nice and gentle people here! If someone is interested, I will do a tutorial with some pics and want to explain the differences i found from the Belgian and UK engines and how to convert them in a easy way. Thanks my friends! Raph

Hello all Yesterday i was in the shed, removed the Belgian engine and swapped some parts to the UK engine. There are some little differences, i will post pictures for comparing it later. Uk engine is lifted in, so today i want to allign it proper and connect everything back, fill oil and coolant and hopefully can start it! Will Keep you up to date mates!

Hello All Thank you very very much for your hints. Yesterday i've also removed/checked the "hidden fuse" of the rev-limiter on my Belgian engine as someome PM'd me. Unfortunately also no effect on the ignition. Next i want to check the wiring of the rev-counter as Tim told me. If this has also no effect on the engine i want to replace it with the UK one. Because now i also found some small Petrol leaks around the carb (membranes) and the engine had Problems last several times. When it was low idling and i pushed the accelerator pedal it started to "stumble" until the first 5-10 minutes of operating. I had to immediately release the pedal to prevent the ingine from shutting off. I hope wirings and connectors are interchangeable between UK and Belgian Versions...??? Thank you Tim, i have found a wiring Diagramm. But where is the ignition module located? i could't locate it on the engine. This would be my first engine change on a CVRT, i think it will not be an easy Task, but hope to do it within 2 Days. So i will learn doing it and get some practice. I also got some spares around and a friend also has a Sabre and a Striker over here and will help me out with spares. After removing the Belgian one i will start repair/recon it for using it as a spare one. I will take some Pictures and Keep you up to date! Many thanks, Raph

Hello All Last Weekend i wanted to start my Belgian Spartan after some weeks, to charge the batteries and check the systems for the upcoming events this summer in August. Unfortunately the Engine did not start. Starter was turning at high revs, but not a single sign of ignition. First Thing i was thinking about, it was flooded. So i removed a sparkplug, but it was not unusual wet. Then i held it to the engine block to check the ignition spark. No sign of any spark while cranking the engine. Because of bad acessibility and complexity of the ignition system, and because i have a UK A1 recon engine in the shed, i want to change the engine now. First i would like to make sure that the recon starts and runs out of the Spartan. My question is about the wiring of the engine now in the workshop. I've seen some Videos on Y-tube, like the one of Paul D, but how does i have to wire it? My understanding is that i have to connect the 2 engine oil hoses provided with the engine to the Heat exchanger. Then fill in the engine oil, connect fuel supply to the carb and connect the batteries to the startermotor. I just want to check that the engine is starting and running, just let it run for about 30 seconds, so i think i dont have to fit a cooling system, right? But what wires else i have to connect where? (to the ignition system and what pin at the starterconnector i have to "powerize" for starting it?) Sorry guys, but time is running away, just 4 weeks to the only event this year over here and i don't want to miss it... Kind regards, Raph :blush:

Hey Chris! Very nice Job! Looks really good, i want to repaint my Spartan after the Shows this year. I'm not sure about the Color, British green with black, sandstone or let it Belgium style? What do you guys think about it? Raffz

I want to replace the outer hub seals on the final drive, but i can't surely indentify and find them for sale in the Internet. I would be very happy if anybody could help me to get all seals/gaskets needed. I want them before disassembling the final drive. Can anybody give me a helping Hand? Regards from Switzerland

The leaking is external, but maybe it would make sense to replace the shaft seals also? Do i have to remove the complete final drive or can i just remove the rotating part?

Hello all! After some events and 50 miles more on the clock, my Spartan is leaking oil now on the right final drive. 3 hours after refilling, the oil was out again. The leak is between the rotating part and the bolted final drive casting. Is anybody experienced in replacing the seal in the final drive and can give me some hints/advice? (Disassembly, repair, assembly) Or should i better have a look for a complete Final Drive? Raph

Yes, tracked vehicles will remain on the festival-area, but a cirquit track for them is provided.

Hello Kuno No this was not me, but i know the guy :-) , it was a CVRT Striker in desert painting. The Spartan is my first vehicle to show on the convoy-event. It is not alredy fully restored but anyway a nice and rare vehicle on the event. I did not missed any of the convoys, since i was a teenager in 1996 ;-) and my dream was ever to be there someday with my own tracked vehicle.

Hello All There are black squares on the left hand side, one on the back cargo bin, one on the left side rear and one on the front, left beneath the licence plate. But they are all blank, maybe my Spartan was reserve stock??? The clock shows only 110 km's if not replaced since service. My Spartan was shortly imported to Switzerland and the only one here as far as i know.. I will show the vehicle the bigest HMV event here in Switzerland, www.convoy.ch in early august. To introduce and honor this vehicle to the public, i'm looking for the year of manufacturing and some history of the Spartan (or general belgian Spartans history) . Thank you for any hints, time is short to the event. Raphael

Hello Kuno I will be there with my CVRT Spartan. Hope to see you there! :-)

Hello Bill License plate is 65457. How can i find the year of manufacturing now? Thank you.

I am looking for the year of manufacture of my belgian Spartan. Where can i find a hint? Or when are Spartans delivered to Belgium?

Hello All I have a problem with the wiring of my Spartan, the RH lights front and rear don't work, LH ok. I opened the Instrument Panel but found no missing connection, unfortunately many markings on the wires are now unreadable over the years. Is there a fuse dividing LH and RH light wiring? I hope to get the wiring back in place unharmed and correct. :whistle: Regards Raphael

Hello Tankers! Does anybody have an idea of the production or new costs of the CVRT family vehicles? I know there are many myths of how much they where for buying from factory. I heard myths from 100'000 to 750'00(???) in the 70's. What do you think or know about the costs and what would the prices to be compared to the todays GBP rating? Any suggestions? :wow:

Hi Guykay I don't know Samsons, just my Spartan. On my Spartan (ex belgian) there is a bypass valve right behind the drivers seat, left to the fuel pump. There you can switch the fuel supply form instead to the carb, to a draining pipe near the engine drain plug (will try it this week). From my experiences some years as a service technician of the swiss Caterpillar dealer, the best way to deal with dirty fuel tanks is to built them out and flush them with a hot waterpressure cleaner (sorry i don't know the correct english word for it):-X. Then use pressurized air to get the water out and let it dry completely. (fight water with water:cool2: )

Nice it runs now!:-) I think to 99% this was the reason for the problem. When driving a slope, water can be sucked into the fuel system and cause misfires or completely stop the engine. Make sure to drain or clean the main fuel tank thoroughly or problem will return most likely when she enters a hill or ramp:nut:. Good Luck, i've got haematomas everywhere from this comfortable draining work in the engine bay Job mates tomorrow will think i've got a real bad beating this weekend :-D.

Hello I had same problems this week on my Spartan .:nut: Wet plugs, first thinking was: engine flooded. Also changed plugs then, no effect. After checking the fuel Filter i found some water in the filterbowl. It seemed that condensation water was sucked in the fuel system caused by loading it on a trailer. So water from the bottom of the fuel tank was sucked into the fuel lines. So first check the fuel filter. -If water or debris found clean filter and then disconnect the vertical fuel tube on the bulkhead (RH of drivers shoulder). -Bleed with fuel pump until clean fuel is pumped out and reconnect (use some rags, fuel will spill out). -There is a 9/16 brass nut at the rear base of the carb body (the lower one). There you can drain the water from the carb (with fuel pump OFF!) I then connected filterbase inlet with a hose to a jerry-can to make sure clean fuel is delivered. Started on the button. Please be carefully, look for good ventilation, open all hatches. Avoid any sparks flames..... Stay safe :-).