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  1. Hello my tracked Friends :cool2: I have the same problems, oil is leaking out of both final drives on my Spartan. I've tried to use thicker oil, but also this was not preventing the oil to drip out on the tracks. Please let me know how what kind of seals you use and how you are processing. This will be a winter job over here in Switzerland for me :-)
  2. Hey Robin, If you have any more questions --> give me a shout or PM me. You are welcome! Is the collection you are working for public? Maybe a good friend of me would like to visit, he is in Canada for business next weeks.
  3. Hello Friends I found some little differences as i changed the engine on my Spartan and want to share it with you: Both vacuum-pipes on the Belgian one where connected to the carb manifold. UK: Holes are plugged and one pipe is connected to the airfilter i believe. Solution: I just swapped a Fitting from the Belgian one to the plugged manifold of the UK one. Belgian engine had a "hidden" rev-limiter fuse, located left of the thermostat housing, on a bracket. Also there was a earth-strap mounted on the bracket. Just to be on the safe side, i also connected there a earth-strap on the new UK engine and one from the lower block down to the vehicle hull. Also the coolant draining valve on the UK engine is modified. Shown here the early pipe with valve located under the filter bowl. A little trick to change the engine with the generator in place, is to slightly lift the rear of the engine. So i was able to turn it slightly to the driver's compartment and lift it out easy with the generator in situ. Maybe this could be helpful for someone. Kind regards, Raph
  4. Hello Guys Today i wanted to connect a backup-cam to the distribution panel inspection socket of my Spartan and..... zzzzzziiippp.... shorted a wire to ground :shocked: --> now the Fuse is blown :-X. I had a look to the wiring diagramm and found a Fuse F4 for the inspection socket. Anybody knows where it is located? Inside the Box or outside? Kind regards, Raph
  5. Back again from the shed :cool2: IT RUNS!!! :-D Started on the button, runs smooth and also low-idling is very good! But found a little oil leak from the top of the filterbase, where the nut is located. So i have to change the seal ring but no problem, because deck and firewall are still off. I found some bolts on the recon-engine not properly tight. I strongly recommend to check all bolts (except the cylinderhead ones) before lifting it in! Thank you ALL very very much for your help! Great Forum, so very nice and gentle people here! If someone is interested, I will do a tutorial with some pics and want to explain the differences i found from the Belgian and UK engines and how to convert them in a easy way. Thanks my friends! Raph
  6. Hello all Yesterday i was in the shed, removed the Belgian engine and swapped some parts to the UK engine. There are some little differences, i will post pictures for comparing it later. Uk engine is lifted in, so today i want to allign it proper and connect everything back, fill oil and coolant and hopefully can start it! Will Keep you up to date mates!
  7. Hello All Thank you very very much for your hints. Yesterday i've also removed/checked the "hidden fuse" of the rev-limiter on my Belgian engine as someome PM'd me. Unfortunately also no effect on the ignition. Next i want to check the wiring of the rev-counter as Tim told me. If this has also no effect on the engine i want to replace it with the UK one. Because now i also found some small Petrol leaks around the carb (membranes) and the engine had Problems last several times. When it was low idling and i pushed the accelerator pedal it started to "stumble" until the first 5-10 minutes of operating. I had to immediately release the pedal to prevent the ingine from shutting off. I hope wirings and connectors are interchangeable between UK and Belgian Versions...??? Thank you Tim, i have found a wiring Diagramm. But where is the ignition module located? i could't locate it on the engine. This would be my first engine change on a CVRT, i think it will not be an easy Task, but hope to do it within 2 Days. So i will learn doing it and get some practice. I also got some spares around and a friend also has a Sabre and a Striker over here and will help me out with spares. After removing the Belgian one i will start repair/recon it for using it as a spare one. I will take some Pictures and Keep you up to date! Many thanks, Raph
  8. Hello All Last Weekend i wanted to start my Belgian Spartan after some weeks, to charge the batteries and check the systems for the upcoming events this summer in August. Unfortunately the Engine did not start. Starter was turning at high revs, but not a single sign of ignition. First Thing i was thinking about, it was flooded. So i removed a sparkplug, but it was not unusual wet. Then i held it to the engine block to check the ignition spark. No sign of any spark while cranking the engine. Because of bad acessibility and complexity of the ignition system, and because i have a UK A1 recon engine in the shed, i want to change the engine now. First i would like to make sure that the recon starts and runs out of the Spartan. My question is about the wiring of the engine now in the workshop. I've seen some Videos on Y-tube, like the one of Paul D, but how does i have to wire it? My understanding is that i have to connect the 2 engine oil hoses provided with the engine to the Heat exchanger. Then fill in the engine oil, connect fuel supply to the carb and connect the batteries to the startermotor. I just want to check that the engine is starting and running, just let it run for about 30 seconds, so i think i dont have to fit a cooling system, right? But what wires else i have to connect where? (to the ignition system and what pin at the starterconnector i have to "powerize" for starting it?) Sorry guys, but time is running away, just 4 weeks to the only event this year over here and i don't want to miss it... Kind regards, Raph :blush:
  9. Hey Chris! Very nice Job! Looks really good, i want to repaint my Spartan after the Shows this year. I'm not sure about the Color, British green with black, sandstone or let it Belgium style? What do you guys think about it? Raffz
  10. I want to replace the outer hub seals on the final drive, but i can't surely indentify and find them for sale in the Internet. I would be very happy if anybody could help me to get all seals/gaskets needed. I want them before disassembling the final drive. Can anybody give me a helping Hand? Regards from Switzerland
  11. The leaking is external, but maybe it would make sense to replace the shaft seals also? Do i have to remove the complete final drive or can i just remove the rotating part?
  12. Hello all! After some events and 50 miles more on the clock, my Spartan is leaking oil now on the right final drive. 3 hours after refilling, the oil was out again. The leak is between the rotating part and the bolted final drive casting. Is anybody experienced in replacing the seal in the final drive and can give me some hints/advice? (Disassembly, repair, assembly) Or should i better have a look for a complete Final Drive? Raph
  13. Yes, tracked vehicles will remain on the festival-area, but a cirquit track for them is provided.
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