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What welder?


Tony B

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Number 1 Son has a whole heap of dodo from great hights latley. I wan't to get him something for christmas that will cheer him up. Can anyone recommend 1 A make of MIG welder, 2 The sort of spec I should go for 3 A supplier?

Preferably not frightengley expensive. I've seen some Wolf ones on Amazon for about £150, but are they any good?

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What sort of work will be be doing with it?

 

I've got the older version of this one from Machine Mart and it's been brilliant. http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/110e-mig-welder

 

Most of the welding I do is on thin sheet, so I deliberately went for a relatively low power one.

If he is likely to do heavier work then a more beefy one might be better, but for a cheap light usage/starter one the Clarke is ideal. The disposable gas bottles can work out quite expensive, but they do last reasonably well on mine.

 

Don't bother with no-gas ones, they're a waste of time!

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I can recommend the clarke ones as well. I have a 150 version getting on for 25 years old now, it has seen some real abuse over the years but still gives good service.

 

Adams Gas at Thanet supply 9 ltr cylinders specifically for home use, no rental charge just a £50 refundable deposit and pay for the refill. Much cheaper than disposable ones, and better quality gas as well

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Im also looking to get a mig welder to weld thin car panels (already got an arc for thicker stuff)

 

Clarke have just released a new one Mig 145 for £167 gas/no gas

 

Alot of people tell me dont bother with no gas but others seem to have good success with no gas.

 

Im looking for just occassional use small pieces and obviously on a budget (arent we all;) )

 

Am a novice welder so keeping it simple also is for me

 

Can anyone clarify for me the gas/no gas arguement

 

Many thanks

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interesting to hear there is someone else still using an ancient Clarke 150! (have you ever had to replace the brass neck Zero? - due to non-standard fittings, relatively expensive! the newer models may have the commonly interchangeable plug-in 'euro' lead however)

 

personally I don't think the (single) roller/feed system is that great in my old Clarke and now only use it for occasional light stainless work - replaced it with a secondhand Murex245 which was sourced thru ebay from a chap down in Cornwall for around £200 - it's a lovely machine - I would recommend buying a good used machine over the cheaper end of the new market but then I tend to say that about most things!

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1. I'd add my vote to the "don't bother with 'no gas' " folk. In general it seems to be better to go for one size larger machine, maybe a 150, and go for gas only.

 

2. Figure out a gas supply. Co2 should be fine for mild steel, although Argon / Co2 mix is better it will have to be by subscription bottle which will rack up the pennies. If you can find subscription free go for that.

 

3. MIG welding forum, as above, and if you buy anything up to about a 150 Machine Mart stocks all the consumables - tips, wire, shrouds, swan necks, etc - not huge cash either.

 

4. Forget second hand, give him a new one. Welding machines have hard lives, generally, and you take pot luck on E-Bay - may look fine and be crap or vice versa.

 

5. Auto-darkening welding helmet for his birthday?

 

6. I've had a couple of SIP Migmate welders. The current one gave sterling service over about fifteen vehicle rebuilds but was looking really tired and wasn't working well at all. A read of the MIG welding forum and a trip to Machine Mart later it still looks like a pile of pooh but is welding like a new machine. Basically I replaced the entire feed system, including a new steel spring liner for the hose, plus wire, for about £45.

Edited by Gordon_M
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interesting to hear there is someone else still using an ancient Clarke 150! (have you ever had to replace the brass neck Zero? - due to non-standard fittings, relatively expensive! the newer models may have the commonly interchangeable plug-in 'euro' lead however)

 

personally I don't think the (single) roller/feed system is that great in my old Clarke and now only use it for occasional light stainless work - replaced it with a secondhand Murex245 which was sourced thru ebay from a chap down in Cornwall for around £200 - it's a lovely machine - I would recommend buying a good used machine over the cheaper end of the new market but then I tend to say that about most things!

 

You're right about non standard parts, and yes I have changed the swan neck a couple of times, the thread that holds the tip in the end wears out eventually, but I,ve always been able to find reasonably priced parts on Ebay.

 

I use 0.8 wire which feeds OK. I have tried the smaller 0.6 stuff but it kept getting stuck

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I guess the trick is to look for the consumables when you don't need them as burning thru your neck with a dribble of weld and paying the going rate at the local welding shop (£25) hurts (when a complete euro gun assembly with hose can be had for more or less the same price)

 

never tried 0.6 - had enough fun getting 0.8 to feed thru the Clarke!

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A welder for Christmas? Now thats what I call a loving Dad!

 

Then I twigged the real motive - "practice on the trailer" ...........

 

You cant fool us!

 

That said I agree with everything here, a good welder need not cost the earth. I will stick up for the no-gas option though - they are grand if you are working outside and it is breezy (which it generally is in this fine land of ours). I did a jeep body with one and it was pretty good, and saved a lot in terms of gas.

 

I cant even remember what mine is but its a machine mart one. The two must have accessories in my opinion are the auto darkening helmet and the trolley to mount it all on. So Santa - you know what to do!

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Always go for a gas welder with a bit more output than you think that you will need, what will do a lot will do a little, I have several welders at work ranging from "hobby type" right through to heavy industrial units. The "reactorlight" light mask I find extremely good for tack welding, but I prefere the normal mask for continuous work, and always buy the head mask, you will be surprised how often you will need both hands. Its all about practice, and dont be afraid to ask people about technique....... and the understanding of distortion and stresses on your work. Your work should always be well prepared prior to welding for the best results. Practice,practice,practice. You need good light on your workpiece and no draughts, that will blow the gas away and ruin your welding..... there must be access to good welding practices on the net, its worth studying before attempting to do any restoration work...... make sure that you have nothing combustible near your work, its always a good idea to have a fire extinguisher on hand.

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You're right about non standard parts, and yes I have changed the swan neck a couple of times, the thread that holds the tip in the end wears out eventually, but I,ve always been able to find reasonably priced parts on Ebay.

 

I use 0.8 wire which feeds OK. I have tried the smaller 0.6 stuff but it kept getting stuck

 

If you weld too close to your work with the smaller wire and the amperage has not been reduced your wire will become molten back to the nozzle and become fused..... equally if you hold your nozzle a little further away from your work, the amperage will increase by several amps. ( I am assuming that you are using the correct nozzle size for the wire???.)

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there must be access to good welding practices on the net, its worth studying before attempting to do any restoration work...... make sure that you have nothing combustible near your work, its always a good idea to have a fire extinguisher on hand.

 

The last bit especially mate !:-D An incident with a Ford Escort, a garage with a bit of oil soacked carpet and a proffesional welder friend of mine comes to mind.

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