cordenj Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 When I get it back the wheels will come off and I will ask that nice Mr. Corden to come over and give me a hand to turn it over so I can dismantle the wheel hubs and suspension. Ok, but you can see why I prefer to stick to "lightweight" trailers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 HI TONY A couple of years ago l needed the same type of cleats and all that seemed to be about were the ones with two holes then some one said try a ships chandlers you know the type that sell bits for small boats and they had some with only one hole in the centre and about the same size I've just got some virtually identical from Ernest Does today! Though there galvinised finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 I will try Ernest Does tomorrow otherwise I'm going to a local forge to see if they can make some. If I proceed that way I may well be able to have more made for any other sad person who is embarking on a similar project. Talking of sad people, I happen to own Dorking Models and look what turned up today - it's almost as though somebody 'up there' is reading this thread as well!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 ITalking of sad people, I happen to own Dorking Models and look what turned up today - it's almost as though somebody 'up there' is reading this thread as well!! They are. Got my example from Libor at Mirror Models a week or so ago - what with the forthcoming airborne jeep and 10cwt lightweight trailer from Bronco, modellers of 10cwt trailers have never had it so good..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordf30 Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 The really scarey thing is the iea of Tony getting his hands dirty ! Let us know if you need any help. Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 The really scarey thing is the iea of Tony getting his hands dirty ! Let us know if you need any help. Mitch Yes. But its just 1:1 scale modelling really . Wonder how many tins of Humbrol needed to repaint a full size 10cwt GS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 Yes. But its just 1:1 scale modelling really . Wonder how many tins of Humbrol needed to repaint a full size 10cwt GS? if you assume 2 litres of paint are needed it's about 150......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 I won't need that much as I am painting it with a OO brush!! No luck at Ernest Doe for cleats so fingers crossed down the forge road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 I won't need that much as I am painting it with a OO brush!! No luck at Ernest Doe for cleats so fingers crossed down the forge road In the local yard over here are body`s taken from 1 ton trailers ex BOAR, and they have the same loops rivited on to them , so maybe these trailers are also lurking around in yards in the uk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 In anticipation of storms, plagues and pestilence tomorrow I rushed home from work and removed the rest of the woodwork, hinges and grab handles - well one of them as the other has the pin well and truly seized. Now soaking in WD40 in readiness for another attempt. One thing I noticed and had forgotten about was a layer of tar-like paint layer over most of the underfloor frame. I remember now trying to remove it when I first had the trailer. Was it some type of protective paint put on when the trailer was manufactured? Hopefully the sandblasting will remove it properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 I've found it useful; to soack a rag in penetrating oil and then wrap it around the bit, wrap with plastic and leave. Gives the oil more time to penetrate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Frame looks to be in good condition. John should be able to blast off the tar coating. Heat/Blowtorch on the handle pin will help release it... know anyone with a blowtorch? :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 (edited) For me Plus Gas eventually worked where WD40 wouldn't touch it. I think mine had been in a hedge bottom for about 40 years. Interesting to see the bare frame of a Mortar trailer - it seems that the base frames of both the Mortar trailer and the GS trailer are the same standard design with the vertical raves added later according to purpose. That explains the curious extra front frame on the GS trailer. That would make sense if the GS trailers and Mortar trailers were built in the same contract - the manufacturer could just churn out a standard base frame without the need to take account of the numbers of different trailers within the contract Another variation in the design of the bracket for the folding grab handle as well- on mine, the top and bottom are made from 2 pieces of angle iron joined at the front by a piece of plate and the rear edges are nicely radiused rather than being cut straight - that must differ from manufacturer to manufacturer Edited September 14, 2013 by simon king Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 ... know anyone with a blowtorch? :rolleyes: Yes, John, me...........play time tomorrow if you want to come over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 Nice Mr. Corden came over and helped (or rather took over) taking all the brake cylinders out of the hubs, dismantling all the brake linkages and removing the errant grab handle so all is now ready for the sandblaster. The pivot for the brake lever was not original and had to be cut anyway to release the lever. A decision has to be taken regarding the suspension - whether to try and remove all the original crown nuts on the brackets holding the axle and risk having to renew a lot of it or leave as is. The appearance after sandblasting will be the decider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 As Anthony has posted, the Mortar trailer is now ready for gritblasting. Chassis is in good condition and hopefully not need any welding. The handbrake mechanism is virtually identical in the hubs and linkages to the other 10 cwt trailers I've rebuilt. A couple of photos of the chassis and axle for reference: And for those know Mr. Lawrence, here he is "getting his hands dirty" (well one anyway): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 (edited) Might be worthwhile checking for corrosion behind the spring hanger castings - there is an cleverly designed moisture/mud trap between the two bolt holes on the bottom of each casting........ Edited September 15, 2013 by simon king Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Trailer chassis back from the sandblasters and all seems OK. I am wondering whether to replace the axle U clamps. They are fairly pitted but the chances of getting imperial U clamps now is remote - any thoughts please? I have managed to get the hitch unit off and I can make out the following cast marks on the inside of the hitch unit JB 38098 and the following stamped markings on the outside of the housing under the towing eye S-1/1104. Again, any ideas on it's provenance. The holes and tube guides on the chassis to take the clamping bolts of the hitch unit are original and undisturbed, i.e. no modifications to take a replacement unit that wasn't to the original spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Good progress , I am now cleaning brake expanders , but on 4 units I have the rubber boots are deteriorated badly , are they still available in the UK ? thanks Maurice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I got my two replacement rubber boots from Paul Beck Vintage Supplies. www.vintagecarparts.co.uk. Ask for 7W-2205 brake dust cover - these are their newly produced copies of the original Girling 'ExpanderDust Covers' number SP 1202' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 if needed you can also get replacement clevis pins and yokes for the brake rods from Paul Beck - I went for the UNF version (although BSF LH & RH threads also available) as I was starting from scratch. - as well as the brake adjuster I had replacement axle u-bolts made at the place where I had the springs refurbished: http://www.midlandmotorsprings.co.uk/ Just left a severely corroded example with them as a pattern. Wasn't cross drilled for a castellated nut but i will use a pal nut instead. Shouldn't think the place has changed since the 1930's - so imperial measurements are not a problem..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 The tow hitch is identical to mine internally. I can tell you they strip completly down. As for the U bolts, I'd check with a micrometer and if any area is more than about 25 % thin, ditch them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordenj Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Trailer chassis back from the sandblasters and all seems OK. I am wondering whether to replace the axle U clamps. They are fairly pitted but the chances of getting imperial U clamps now is remote - any thoughts please? I have managed to get the hitch unit off and I can make out the following cast marks on the inside of the hitch unit JB 38098 and the following stamped markings on the outside of the housing under the towing eye S-1/1104. Again, any ideas on it's provenance. The holes and tube guides on the chassis to take the clamping bolts of the hitch unit are original and undisturbed, i.e. no modifications to take a replacement unit that wasn't to the original spec.[ATTACH=CONFIG]82165[/ATTACH] Anthony: for comparison, here is the Mk 2 hitch from my Water Bowser in "exploded form" so you can see how it fits together. They are easlily dismantled by driving out the steel wedge...and I'm assumong your hitch body has a similar design. Agree that your trailer spine hasn't been altered as the stengthening tubes look to have not been moved, or perhaps the unusual/replacement hitch body was just made to a standard bolt spacing pattern? Are you using high tensile bolts as replacements? If they are modern with 8.8 markings on the top of the head, I can easily remove that on the lathe for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Lawrence Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Yes John, from Namric as I am going down that way tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Thanks Tony these rubbers are perfect .I will order them straight away for my 2 trailers. Maurice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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